CHINA 2010 WEDNESDAY 28th JULY

For the second morning running Keith’s mobile phone alarm has failed to go off for no apparent reason. It’s a good job he is ‘programmed’ to wake up early. As for me I slept on until he disturbed me before leaving at 8.45am.

Watching TV whilst having my breakfast the rain continues across China giving no end of problems to the Yangtse River. In some regions bridges are collapsing and up to the 14th of July 330 people have died with as many missing. In Dalian the oil clean up is still in progress. The cause of the explosion in the refinery came after a tanker had discharged its cargo and a ‘technical mixture’ was pushed down the pipe line. I am sure Keith will understand it all. I have watched scenes of the clear up operation which seems to be a little disorganised to say the least. There is plenty of man power but not sufficient clean up materials so the workforce are doing the best they can with bamboo poles and small cans whilst on ‘Golden Pebble Beach’ (an area that would normally be packed with Russians as well as local holidaymakers at this time of the year) is deserted as people attempt to clear the oil from the sand using large plastic shovels and buckets. This area and the ban on fishing is going to last for some time. On a lighter note lots of people are visiting ‘Expo 2010’ in Shanghai and every day we see a different country featured at the Exhibition. But the hot weather continues and such a large volume of people I am still not sure I want to go despite the adverts for some unusual varieties of ice-cream!

This afternoon I proposed we took a 31 bus to the terminus which just happens to be by the top of ‘Yandung Lake’. A journey of over 20 minutes on such a bumpy bus we could have almost been on an ancient fairground ride the way it banged and jostled us around.

The Lake begins as a small river in the Jiangtou district of the city and begins to widen into Jiangtou Park but before entering the park I spotted some ornate roofs of another Temple. Stepping through the gateway and passing a lovely display of fresh fruit on the only stall in the courtyard we found 3 Temples, 2 of which were very small but had such colourful scenes on their roofs. Different characters and symbols but my favourite was the one with two happy fat Buddha’s alongside a bright coloured phoenix. It was a bit smelly and Keith had moved back to the main road ready to enter the park.

Our first sight was a large curved weir falling down to the narrowest part of this vast lake where two boys were having fun messing by the water despite the warning signs. We had to cross long narrow stepping stones rather than a bridge for a change to reach the other side where the older generation were playing cards whilst the children messed about by the water. Small covered boats were available for hire but it seems the older children were happy to fish. A couple of young girls appeared to be collecting a type of spawn – quite what it was we have no idea but it certainly wasn’t frogspawn. This part of the lake was surrounded by some lovely apartment blocks and the ‘Sheraton Hotel’ constructed of gold coloured glass.

We couldn’t walk along the second section of the lake due to metal hoarding blocking the way.
The third part was managed a little way but reaching the security gate the official wouldn’t let us go any further so we had to return to the streets.

‘Songbai Park’ was the fourth section. Again a lovely small park with nice bridges and superb reflections in the water but no more photos as my camera tells me it is full. I know the card is almost empty and no matter what I try to do it will not work.

We continued to walk by the lake watching the egrets catching small fish on the water’s surface. Hiding under a dirty smelly bridge was an unusual bird, black and grey and much fatter than the white egrets. We were getting tired by now and the taxis did not want to take us due to their busy period rapidly approaching. I noticed the Football Stadium across the lake and as the bus had gone by on our way in we headed in that direction. We arrived at a stop the same time as a number 31 drew up.

Our journey back was lovely as we went along an elevated section giving views over the lake on our left and the sea on our right. We were almost home when the bus came to a halt along a designated bus lane. The bus in front had broken down. We waited a while and then our driver decided to reverse but a 22 was immediately behind us. A female passenger got up and went to the back to indicate to the driver of 22 to reverse. There was a gap in the section of the lane that we could just get through but before our driver had completed the manoeuvre number 22 was right behind us again. The traffic on the main road gave way and we were able to alight a few metres down the road outside ‘Rainbow’.

Tonight we went to eat in a restaurant literally round the corner and called ‘The Soup Expert’. As we stepped into the small but well organised place we were shown to a table under the ceiling air conditioning unit and handed the menu. We assume the proprietor came and in excellent English helped choose 3 dishes, chicken, a grouper in a chilli sauce and a dish of broccoli and other local vegetable namely pak choi . He then disappeared after telling us he came from Hong Kong when we complimented him on his English. The staff, as usual were very friendly and the food especially the fish excellent and we wondered why we hadn’t been here before. We will have to return as I am intrigued to know what is in the stone shape container that most of the people had ordered and why didn’t we have soup?

CHINA 2010 TUESDAY 27th JULY

A late afternoon walk around the old part of the city close to our apartment as it looks as though it could rain. It’s very dark over the mountains but much brighter overhead. We ventured down a narrow street noticing that the name of it was on a green plaque rather than blue. Passing one or two rooms we wondered if we should have come down here as the young girls were obviously ‘sitting in waiting’ but I wanted to know what the building was facing up the way. It turned out to be a Temple tucked away in a maze of narrow alleys. A lot of people were inside and because of its location felt we did not want to intrude so retraced our steps back onto the main street. Getting on for 6pm the foodstalls were all ready doing business and part of the time we had to step into the road to avoid the tables and stools. The food did look good and smelt good too which made us feel hungry. We have now discovered what is in the large brown earthen jars embellished with yellow dragons stood outside some establishments – it is soup. But what about the lady I saw shining a torch down the neck of the jar whilst she stood on a stool as the jar was nearly as tall as her? “Yes”, Mander informed me “everyone would have soup and she would be checking on the level”. Another of life’s little mysteries explained to me. The shops are very varied in this area – hardware, parts of the kitchen burner or a full replacement if required, shoes, clothes, wood carvings, the expensive brown China Clay teapots, dry goods and one shop that I really wanted to photo just to explain why I had to learn how to ask for my chicken eggs. This still sold nothing but eggs including a box on the street that appeared to have been boiled, shelled and then rolled in wet light brown clay. By now it had begun to rain and was getting heavier and we had decided not to take our umbrellas so we would return home. Not before I take a few more photos of the small houses, narrow alleys, and the rows of bright red Chinese lamps outside a traditional building which I managed to read on a gold plaque stating this was the ‘Teaching place of the Daoists’.

Looking at the map at home we have covered quite an area but with so much activity I thought we hadn’t been out for so long and had in fact almost reached Zhongshan Park.

CHINA 2010 MONDAY 26th JULY

I suggested we take a bus to an area around Xiamen University, one of the sites Mander took us to on our first day in Xiamen, and on checking our map Keith found 22 would take us in that direction. So crossing the footbridge we arrived at the stop outside ‘Rainbow’ just as an almost empty 22 rolled up.

We travelled down familiar streets we have walked along in the older part of the city but after that it was all new. As usual Keith was following the route on our map so had a rough idea where we should alight. Spot on as we were almost at ‘Nanpatou Temple’.

Having ‘lost’ my folder of photos somewhere in the computer and a search revealing nothing of the Saturday spent with Mander so I was keen to return to the Temple. Not so much to enter the buildings but to explore the ponds in the entrance area that just happened to be free. We hadn’t been in this particular area with Mander and found it delightful. All the ponds bar a large square one contained water lilies and lotus plants and hundreds of fish that I began to wonder if theTemple’s monks supplied all the restaurants in Xiamen. This area was full of families enjoying themselves, the children climbing the stone steps whilst others feeding the fish although I did wonder what on earth one family was throwing into the pool as it sank! As well as fish there were a vast amount of turtles of all sizes. Some were having a leisurely time lazing on the large lily pads and others found time to mate – in this heat. I did worry about a small one that was hanging on to a lily still in tight bud whilst those on the leaf in a mating position looked at it! I can think of no end of captions suitable for my photos of the turtles! Lined up close to the Temple entrance were 5 buses from a Cruise Ship visiting the site and as I said with so many families and local tourists the place was crowded and yet I managed to take some pictures without anyone in sight. Walking round the perimeter of the large pond with its stone bridges and a walkway to a shelter we had a good view of the Temple roofs with the large wide mountain behind before it was time to leave.

Outside the street leading to the Temple entrance we found it hard work trying to avoid the beggars and the map sellers. At least some of the sellers laughed when we showed them we already had one in English. We knew we were not far from the sea so keeping to the path before checking at the bus stop for our return trip we did a slight detour into the University’s grounds, which is adjacent to the Temple, as today the fountain was working due to ‘The Global Leadership Programme’. Back to our plan we came to a narrow path by the side of a bridge that leads out to the overhead coastal road. Following the path we found ourselves on a deserted wide promenade with a view of the coastal road, a lovely sandy beach and the sea. It wasn’t quite deserted as three workers were busy cleaning the beach and a gardener was cutting back the branches of bougainvillaea growing up a wire fence. As we approached the end of this stretch of the promenade we found we had to make a slight detour passig workmen repairing the bridge. Behind a wire fence old timber lay in large piles on the original walkway. We could now see that we had reached the beach area with the start of the 2km wooden walkway that we had taken with Yeti, Helen and Mr. Cheng before going for supper recently.

Time to head back to a bus stop, this time walking alongside grounds with a very impressive building, and a large amphitheatre leading down to a sports track where one oldish man was running round the circuit barefooted whilst a lady was quite happy to walk. As we moved along we saw the familiar new building of Xiamen University so guess this must be part of the complex. We soon found a bus stop and arrived home just as the sun disappeared.

CHINA 2010 SUNDAY 25th

Just when we thought we would go out this morning it began to rain so a change of plan. We stayed for lunch by which time the shower had passed and the hot sunshine was back.

The afternoon plan was to walk to Yundang Lake cross over it and then take a right and we should end up at the Government Building. Forgetting to pick up the map we still went ahead with our walk deviating slightly to get to the lake and passing the small garden on the street corner that I wrote about recently with the hidden toilet. On our previous visit I had missed the violin sculpture and today the planters were more colourful. Going diagonally across this small park would bring us out on a road leading to the ‘State Grid’ building and into the landscaped area of Yundang Lake.

With the hot sunshine we chose to take the winding path under the shade of the trees. The gardeners had been busy cutting back bamboo and in my opinion making a right mess of the pruning. (The city gardeners have been cutting back the trees along the roads near our apartment and the prunings are in large piles are causing an obstruction on the pavement whilst awaiting collection.) Over the two bridges across the lake and then the direct path out to lead us to a road where we turned to our right and again choosing the shady side to walk we continued to the next junction.

We hadn’t walked far when it began to rain but thankfully a few sun umbrellas at the side of the road provided shelter for the short shower giving us a lovely view of a basket of flowers. When I say basket of flowers this is a centre piece in the landscaped gardens of the Government Building. I cannot say how high or wide this basket is but would guess around 10 feet and has a series of large paintings depicting different landscape scenes of China. I bet it even looks better illuminated at night especially with an avenue of large lights in the shape of spikes of flower heads to light up the whole area. We walked through the garden which being a Sunday was very quiet to see on our left an amphitheatre with large ornate stone plaques on the curved walls whilst at the top of the tiered stone seating was a row of sculptured shrubbery. Arriving at another road which was roped off due to the replacement of large underground pipes with metal ones which surprised us somewhat as we thought they would not be using plastic we headed back towards the Lake.

Walking past a row of cafe’s overlooking the Lake we decided we would join Xiamen’s elite and have a drink. As usual Keith ordered beer whilst I went for a mango smoothie. His drink soon arrived but I sat a while and was just on the point of going to ask where my drink was when the waitress arrived with a large glass of mango ice. It took me a long time to eat it and I only managed to drink the last couple of inches through my thick straw when the last of the ice had melted. Very nice, and very welcome in this heat. We were in no rush anyway spending the time watching the Porches and other expensive cars arrive and the occupants disappear into the cafes after being chased by the lady parking officials riding small bicycles to purchase a ticket.
Back by the Lake we followed the path avoiding the fishermen who were out numbers today. By the bottom of the lake we saw several egrets sitting on posts jutting out of the water. A couple of wooden hoardings on the path showed pictures of the birdlife we could expect to see in the area and various shapes at different heights had been cut into the wood panelling so everyone could have a really good view of the egrets. The Lake is tidal and at this point we could see just how fast it was draining into the sea. Continuing on the path we got another view of the skyline of Xiamen and as we approached another water feature we were to witness another local taking a shower before returning to the busy road to make our way home. The greenery was still lying on the footpaths awaiting collection.

We ate at the Vietnamese Restaurant not very far from our apartment. On being handed the menu we discovered the dishes were Thai - no wonder I am confused! At least we were left to look at the pictures without feeling we have to make a quick decision when the waitress is standing by our table with pen and order pad in hand. It’s okay for the locals as they wish to discuss every dish before making a final decision. Having made or choices I noticed a couple at a nearby table eating the fried ‘Elephant Fish’ that we had sampled in Vietnam and is served upright in a wooden rack but we hadn’t seen that in any of the pictures. We had hoped to try ‘Pineapple and Beef’ but our waitress said this dish was pork even though the menu and stated in written English beef, so a change of choice and went for an alternative beef dish. We also had some lovely spiced prawns with lots of peppers and onion, and a selection of Thai vegetables that consisted of cabbage, cauliflower, brocilli, red cabbage and green beans in a sauce. Trying to order a dish of mixed vegetables is difficult in most restaurants. Of course we had the Thai beer to wash it all down. On paying the bill Keith said what an expensive day we had had. I looked puzzled until he reminded me of the expensive cafe by the Lake and as this is the only Vietnamese Restaurant in our area of Xiamen Island it too was expensive.

We were home at 8pm just in time to watch the German Grand Prix.

CHINA 2010 SATURDAY 24th JULY

We went out early which is a change for us but perhaps not such a good idea with the temperature remaining around 35 degrees. No arrangements had been made to entertain us today apart from having supper with Mander and his girlfriend Lin this evening.

I had studied the map and decided we would head towards more parks the other side of Yundang Lake particularly an area where the main Government Building stands. I am intrigued to know if the area is anything like Dalian’s with a huge square and the white marble dancing fountains.

As usual we never stick to our plan as we found ourselves walking along a route that took us past the ‘Cruise Line Terminal’, an area of several overhead roads including one directly over us. The only green area we saw was a ‘mountain’ on our right and no apparent access up it but then it was so hot we were in no mood to go mountaineering today.

We decided to go over a curved stainless steel footbridge which would lead us to a waterfall on the other side of the road. By the time we walked over the bridge, acknowledging a group of children shouting “hello” to us as we began to climb the steps, the water had stopped. How many times has this happened to us – I am convinced there is a little man watching and as soon as he sees the foreigner he pulls a switch!

Still whilst we were here we might as well have a drink sitting on small marble stools at a small round marble table with a power socket for charging several mobile phones. Across the road was a waiting electric car so perhaps there was something interesting to see. Finishing our drink the car had now disappeared not that we wanted to take it anyway. Up the wide road almost under the largest bridge of several that lead to the mainland we arrived at the ticket office where we had a decision to make as a young lady explained we could ‘do Traditional’ or we could ‘do the Bridge’. We chose ‘Traditional’ and on paying the fee of 30 yuan each she gave us a game card explaining that on our trip we had to complete the 4 empty squares, members of staff would help us play the game as we went around. She then kindly came out of her office and showed us which of the two roads we should take.

Sod’s law we were to go up rather than down! Not a problem as we had renewed our energy at the drink stop. We hadn’t gone very far when I noticed black marble squares engraved with Chinese scene. As there were several of these on our route I assumed they told a ‘Traditional’ story. To our right and under a shelter were two very large red bowls emblazoned with gold dragons. Expecting to find a few goldfish swimming in them I was somewhat surprised to find they were empty, not even a pattern inside apart from the red signature of the maker. When we reached the top of the incline we arrived at a large viewing area containing a stage and several buildings. There was also plenty of seating including white metal garden swings – very romantic but in need of oiling!

From this point we had some good views of the Bridge and the surrounding area. Below was a container port and behind that an area where small boats were tied up at the short jetties. It was also in this area we discovered more of the large bowls not only the red ones but another with blue and white painted scenes and whilst I was in a world of my own Keith was receiving instructions on how to play the game.

We had 6 dice which we had to throw around the bowl and hope they would all settle with a winning score. We had been told if we got 4 fours and 2 twos we would win l,888 yuan, otherwise depending on how many squares we filled we could win a prize. We had three chances here and when Keith threw his he had no winning numbers. My turn and I got two out of three. Thanking the lady who had assisted us we entered one of the buildings to discover a ‘Mooncake Museum’ and then the penny dropped that we had been playing Xiamen’s famous ‘Mooncake Game’. This game is traditionally played at the Mid-Autumn Festival the second occasion in the year when families get together. A good display of bronze models playing the game, glass cases containing several elaborate costumes and hats, and a wall plaque showing ‘Mooncake’ designs of the delicious small round pastry of different fillings which is traditionally eaten during the festival, were just a few of the objects on show.

Back outside for more photos we were entertained by a couple of local musicians. The same lady who had helped us play ‘the game’ now showed us how to play the square stringed musical instrument. A lovely sound and I discovered just how light the rubber tipped hammers are, but I will need many, many lessons to be as proficient as my teacher. We also listened to an old man playing a Chinese violin whilst his friend sang, changing positions over half way through their rendition. A family with twins, a boy and girl, and a baby played nearby. As I walked back to the swings the little girl had followed me and was attempting to climb on one but it kept getting away from her. I held it tight until she was safely on board and then pushed it a few times for her. Guess who tired first? The father seemed very pleased that I took her photograph.

The last part of this adventure was to climb the winding steps that brought us to the road level of the bridge and the highest point of this small park. In this area we discovered several individual eating rooms in the garden area and a large seafood restaurant further along. Again pictures of several dishes were displayed around the outside of the building along with their prices, most over 150 yuan and we had no idea what the main ingredient in any of the pictures could be. This was now the easy part of our adventure – we stepped into a lift and were transported back down to the area close to the ticket office.

We had one more square on our card to fill and this would be done in the shop. Good ploy. It was not to be Keith’s day as he failed to score again but was given a consolation prize of a small packet of shortbread cookies. On the other hand I had another scoring throw and with 3 boxes won a bag of dice – now I need to buy a bowl!

We stopped for another drink by the waterfall that was now completely dry so birds were flying off and onto the large rocks. The family with their children arrived, the little girl picking a wild flower for her mother, but with the baby in one arm and a mobile phone to her ear with the other hand she could not accept the flower. Giving up the little girl threw it away.

Need I tell you we took a taxi home!

7pm we met Mander and his girlfriend Lin downstairs. We should have been joined by one of Keith’s students but he had cancelled – too much beer last night! We took a taxi to a Japanese restaurant close to Yundang Lake. For a set price we could eat as much food as we liked. So shoes off and stepping down to a low table we were able to rest our feet in a deep square well under the table and sit on legless cushioned seats. Mander had hoped to have a private room but as he said this was a very popular place especially at the weekend so all the rooms had been booked. The food was lovely with plenty of sushi accompanied by the wasabi sauce that I have now discovered is much better when mixed with vinegar. Mander asked for a tube of the paste, a much stronger taste than the one usually served. He pulled some funny faces after tasting it and then wondered why I did not want to try it! We each had a large grilled prawn on a skewer, a large prawn in batter, a small meaty fish (mine containing a soft roe which I was able to show Mander as we had been discussing them whilst sampling some fish eggs), BBQ chicken wing or thigh, a seaweed mesh in the shape of a cone and filled with shredded vegetables and crabmeat (gorgeous) and shared a plate of baby clams, and a couple of plates of vegetables, finishing our meal with an individual small teapot of fish soup that we drank from a very small bowl containing a small piece of lemon. Did we want more to eat?

Leaving the restaurant we walked a short distance to ‘Haiwan Park’ where we sat and drank more beer whilst chatting over the sound of Latin American music, played by a Russian combo according to Mander. I thought they were a bit skinny for Russians. This bar area was packed with people including a lot of Westerners. We had a few spots of rain and lots of lightning over the bay. Down the steps behind us people were paddling in the water as it was high tide and the water had covered part of the lower walkway. We were disappointed that the fountains in the park were not playing. It was getting on for midnight as we continued to walk home Mander wanting to make sure we reached our apartment safely before they left for their home.

CHINA 2010 Week 19-23rd JULY

MONDAY 19th
Three stops on the ‘Rapid Bus’ and a short walk will hopefully take us to ‘Jinbang Gardens’ a green area I have recently spotted whilst travelling on the bus. ‘Jinbang Gardens’ has been created to the memory of ‘Chen an’ a prodigy writing poetry at 10 but failing the Imperial Exam 18 times and finally giving up when he was 60. At that age he chose to spend the rest of his life on Jinbang Mountain living as a hermit.

Entering the part what I thought was going to be a nice gentle stroll turned into mountain climbing up and down steps, passing through narrow gaps in the large rocks and at times having to crouch down to get by. “All good fun” we kept saying and “just think how many pounds we will have lost in perspiration” as we climbed higher getting a good view of the city’s skyline. When we came to a junction of more steps we had decided enough was enough and would take the route that we hoped would lead us back down. Under the welcome shad of a small shelter we stopped to have a drink of water before continuing down to arrive at a roadway.

For once I was ahead of Keith and again making a choice of left or right I chose right only to see what was under the road bridge. To the left was the Railway Station to our right was the end of the line where several electric engines were lined up over pits.

We decided we would explore the other side of the bridge as the landscaped area immediately in front of us looked so inviting. More steps and more rocks which from a distance almost look man made because they are so smooth but I can assure you they are all original. Again many of them have had inscriptions carved into the surface.

Our wanderings brought us to yet another Temple. Stood at the bottom of the steps leading up to the Temple were two stone elephants with bright red ribbons around their necks. Unusual as it is common to see lions. Climbing the steps we met a couple of men sitting on them. They were from Taiwan now working in Xiamen, having moved on from Shanghi. Continuing up the steps we came to the lions again wearing bright red ribbons. Because of the newness of the ribbons we had decided this Temple could not have been open very long. Keith was wearing shorts and would not visit inside the Temple but neither of us would see inside as work was still in progress.
Instead of retracing our steps through the woodland we chose the easy option of following the road and in a few minutes we were back at the bridge. Over the bridge we took a few steps up back into Jinbang Park to see parts we missed such as the pond with the stepping stones and a waterfall dropping into the water beside a small shelter where two men were fast asleep. Then we came to another pool with a cascade by a small bridge, and finally another waterfall at the lower level where an area was set aside for refreshments. We sat and had a drink whilst listening to one of the childrens’ individual rides churn out nursery rhymes some of which we recognised. They brought back childhood memories for me as in between the tunes the English alphabet was recited ending with “now you know your ABC you can sing along with me”.


TUESDAY 20th
I went into the city to see if ‘Walmart’ had anything to offer that I couldn’t get nearer to home. Well a pair of green sandals and a large floor duster which is 50 yuan cheaper than in Trust Mart was about the only items. I didn’t like the layout and there just seemed to be a slightly unpleasant smell which I thought was from the fresh food section and when I first smelt it I was nowhere near there. I won’t bother again.

I also wanted to buy another copy of ‘Xiaman Magic’ the guide book that we have found so useful. It was the last English copy on display in this particular underground bookstore. I had a look at some of the fashions but with the temperature still hanging around 35C its too much trouble to try things on.

We ate out this evening after going for a late stroll. Keith was tired due to (a) lack of sleep from the road works that have started over again outside our apartment which takes place after 10.30 just when we are thinking about retiring for the night. They are resurfacing the road again although we have no idea what was wrong with the work they carried out in the last couple of weeks, and (b) it was a full day at work. We had one particular restaurant in mind to try but passing a place with a lovely selection of fresh fish chose to give it a try. Great especially if you like loads of chillies in your food. One of the three dishes we selected was mutton. We were grateful the menu had pictures and an English translation only on reading some of the notes under the pictures we don’t quite know what the translation had in mind. A dish of green ingredients cut into triangles after cooking was called ‘grandmother fried’ and a noodle dishs was called ‘ants climbing the mountain’. I should have asked for the menu again and taken some photos. Next time!


WEDNESDAY 21st
We went round the corner for a light lunch of fried squid and chicken pieces washed down with a couple of bottles of beer, eaten in the same restaurant that we were taken to with Helen and Mander during our first weekend in Xiamen.

Still feeling weary due to another sleepless night due to the road works Keith suggested we take a trip on the Rapid Bus on either 1 or 2 line. I went for number 2 line as it has the most stops terminating in Tongan. “Whichever bus comes first” said Keith. It was a number 3 and we know that route. I won as the next one was number 2. It was just before 2pm so there was not so many people travelling which made it pleasant although the air conditioning on these buses is very efficient. We travelled on the familiar route until we came to the junction and felt quite excited to be going into unknown territory. Our journey took us over the water and I thought we were going to Jimei but that must be line 1 as we took a right at another junction and continued along the coastal route. Keith was following on the map and said it would not belong before we reached the end. I looked at the indicator board and said there were many more stations to go and hadn’t we already realised the map is a little out of date. The tide was out leaving a large area of exposed sea bed where a few men appeared to be foraging for something in the sea bed. Perhaps it is the seaworms that we have eaten in jellyfish, a delicacy served in the more expensive restaurants of Xiamen. A few fishing boats were tied up in a small harbour alongside some larger ones which would go nowhere as a low stone bridge had been built over the narrow section into this small haven. This vast area looks as though it is reclaimed land. We rode for over an hour passing areas of demolition, new build (many of the large buildings and apartments empty) and foundation stage. We even saw rice paddies and small areas of ponds and crops. With so much new build it was nice to see the roof tops of some of the old buildings as we got closer to the centre of Tongan where most of the passengers alighted. We stayed on to the bitter end but wished we hadn’t. So back into the terminus and get the next bus out. Should or shouldn’t we take a walk around at the next stop. But with time getting on we knew if we did that the buses would be getting very busy after 4pm so decided to stay put until we reached the terminus in Xiaman.

We were pleased we did that as again we found ourselves in unfamiliar territory and yet we knew the terminus was not very far from our apartment. Walking down one street and looking up we saw ‘Cosco’s’ building (the Company Keith worked for in Dalian) and at street level another Temple with a very colourful roof. We didn’t venture in but when I looked through the gateway I saw a very unusual stone incense burner with a Pekinese lion dog either side representing the handles and the support legs of the burner were unusual carved monsters.


THURSDAY 22nd
A fairly lazy day, apart from the usual housework and washing, as Keith had arranged for me to talk to his students this afternoon.

Questions were asked such as ‘Did I like China?’ ‘What do I think about China’s 1 child policy?’ and ‘What did I think about all the Chinese goods that are available throughout the World?’ I told them about my passion for photography and said my camera had been made in China, my love of flowers and finally travelling. I had forgotten to put my watch on and as most of you know when I start talking I don’t know when to shut up so I had to keep looking at Keith for him to indicate when I should say enough is enough.

After a short break Keith finished off the afternoon by talking about his involvement with the Combined Cadet Force at our local school and showed them a DVD he had made in March when a ‘Passing Out Parade’ was held for the new recruits. Some part of the film especially the practice session kept them amused. The object of the exercise really was to let them hear other English accents. They also got a glimpse of our local Mayor in full regalia and heard the sound of Scottish bagpipes for the first time. When asked if they liked the sound of the pipes they made no comment!

We went out to eat tonight and had hoped to try a place found on our return from the long bus journey, but first we would take a walk as we have had no exercise today. Sitting on the street outside a wine shop was a group of young people. In front of them was a pile of grey heavy duty plastic bag packages onto which they were sticking large labels. On the street corner a young man was creating ballon sculptures and across the road the villagers were selling bananas and peaches which have only just appeared in the markets. We finally arrived at the restaurant and with pictures outside we had thought it looked promising. We were warmly greeted by the young waitress and the one nominated to deal with us did very well with her English whilst the others stood giggling. Producing the menu it was written on a card in Chinese so we had to say sorry and leave. We passed several other places but they were more street eating establishments with low tables and stools. Looking at the dishes on the tables as we walked by saw everyone was having lots of noodles or rice. The food on display looks appetising and would be ideal if we wanted a takeway as we can just point to the cooked dishes of meat and vegetable. We came upon another place and could see pictures and plates of food on display covered in cling film. Shown to the table and given the menu we saw it was a ‘Western’ steakhouse. Still turning the pages we came to Chinese food and ordered a plate of duck and a set fish meal. The duck was disappointing and as we cleared the dish of thin bony slices a mound of bean curd was revealed in a rich soya sauce. Good job we like the bean curd as there was more of that than the duck. A tray arrived with an assortment of dishes including a nicely presented fish which was very tasty. The duck soup was also good. We wondered what the brown bits were on the display of pak choi – minced beef. (We had tried to order the sliced beef dish but there wasn’t any.) We gave the rice a miss and I tried the small deep bowl of egg custard. The meal was filling but we will not be returning even though our bill was only 69 yuan and that included 3 large beers. Close to home and almost hidden amongst the apartment blocks is a lovely looking restaurant with some wonderful carved screens and just looks so inviting – the drawback being it only serves vegetarian food and Keith wants more than just vegetables.

FRIDAY 23rd
We left home around 2pm and was I glad as all morning it had been banging and drilling. Apartment 2110, two doors away from us at the end of our small passage, is undergoing drastic alterations and Keith came home with his trousers covered in dust. He said you try coming up in the lift with two hand carts and several other people in the small lift capable of carrying 13 people. He told me when he left for work this morning there was a handcart and motorbike outside our door! At least they have covered the floor area from the apartment to the lift. 2110’s apartment door was open as we stepped into the corridor and I could see a partition had been knocked down but what really got me was the view. What a sight right over the strait between Xiamen and Gulangyu – how wonderful.

Anyway back to today’s plan which was to go one stop past the Railway Station where ‘Carrefour’ is located and there is also ‘Tesco’ in ‘Robinson’s Galleria’ across the road. ‘Tesco’ was open the ‘Galleria’ wasn’t. With ‘Tesco’ at home we gave that a miss. We were searching for casual shirts for Keith plus another smart one for work as he was informed that K.C. will be coming over from Taiwan for the final presentation by the students, and he wanted a shirt that would go with the tie he had been given after the opening ceremony. We walked around the circle of shops most of them empty or undergoing renovation. The timber being removed from one smelt terrible, I was glad to get past. Saw and nice little coffee bar and I mean little with just two tables outside and no room to move inside. The title was very appropriate ‘Jack’s Small Town’ but was located right next to some toilets. The fashion shops were mainly ladies casual wear however in our search we came across a super DVD and music shop so whilst Keith spent time with a helpful female assistant looking for some instrumental music I looked at the music DVDs and found 4 that we would like. We bought 3 of the 4 but with such a good variety I am sure we will pay the shop another visit.

We returned to the BRT (Bus Rapid Transit from now on abbreviated to BRT) to return to the Railway Station and have a look at the menswear in the underpass. Great success - but not at those prices despite all the sales taking place so more searching to be done. We did eventually find some cheaper ones so that is another job sorted.

It was really hot and sticky and we just wanted to get home hoping the workmen would finish early because it’s Friday but this is China and we think are asking too much. Once we were home I put on a ‘Bon Jovi live concert DVD’ and wound the sound up so we could not hear the banging. Keith sat on the balcony whilst I got on with the ironing but as I looked out I saw how black the sky had become. 5pm our lights went on but as before no rain came and the sky lightened up once more.

CHINA 2010 SUNDAY 18th

Capt. Mao had mentioned to Keith yesterday about going out today. Thanking him he asked if we may have a day of rest. It was no problem and whatever he had in mind will happen next weekend!

According to the weather forecast we were due a thunderstorm at 11am. It never happened although I have to say the cloud in the distance looked awfully black and yet we had blue sky directly above us. The plan was to have lunch and then go to the Conference Centre area and fly our kites.

Just to be on the safe side I packed our umbrellas with all the kite equipment before setting out for the number 3 line on the ‘Rapid Bus’. The journey takes about 15 minutes and as we had already visited the area during our first week in Xiamen we knew exactly where we wanted to be. Once again under the shade of the trees was a kite seller whilst on the field there was other activity taking place today. I say ‘field’ because it is in too rough a state to be called a lawn. A team of gardeners were directing a mobile crane that was delivering a number of trees to be planted, the holes and supports already done. By the time we walked across the field the last of the trees was being dropped and the crane began to move away. Over in the right hand far corner a basketball game was taking place, each team very smartly turned out. In the top left hand corner were some men flying model aeroplanes and helicopters.

We got our kites airborne and I had hung my bag on the nearest tree support when a young man came over towards us. We thought he was a gardener as he began to remove several long thin tubes tied to the tree trunk. I assumed these were something to do with the mobile sprinkler system that was in operation but with the number of knots I wondered how the water was going to pass through. Keith offered to move the bag but the man said “it was okay”. He tied the tubes to the adjacent tree and set off across the field picking up a very fine line as he went. When he had almost reached the other side he picked up a large model glider. We watched him and then noticed the tubes were in fact large elastic bands beginning to stretch as he launched the radio controlled glider.

A mum and her young son and even younger daughter came close to us struggling to get their small kite in the air. I had brought mine down as the wind began to drop so I offered to help. We tried and tried but the wind was now almost non-existent. Mum thanked me and I left Keith still flying his kite to go and sit in the shade on one of the marble seats by the promenade.

I hadn’t been there very long gazing out to sea when I sensed someone close by. Hearing a rustling sound I assumed he or she was collecting empty plastic bottles for which they get so many yuan at the recycling centres. Looking round I saw a man washing his hair using one of the water points. Having done that I could not believe he was taking off his trousers and turning up the water pressure began to take a bath! As I returned to Keith he put his trousers back on and packed away his shampoo.

By now the sky looked very threatening and we really didn’t want to be in this exposed area should it start to rain so decided to call it a day. Another kite seller had arrived setting up a pitch a short distance from the one under the trees and flying a small purple version of Keith’s bright orange octopus. Before we left we went to have a look at his display. He tried to entice us to buy a dolphin but we explained as best we could that it was too small – we wanted bigger kites. Walking back across the paved area in front of the Conference Centre more kite sellers were arriving. Catching a glimpse of their kite bags we noted that most of the kites had spars but then most of their kites are for hire rather than sale.

We made time for a cold drink before returning to the Bus Station. It was 5.30pm when we got home and so dark we had to put the lights on, but no sign of the rain or thunderstorm.

CHINA 2010 SATURDAY 17th 'THE ROUND HOUSES'

Capt. Mao, who attends Keith’s class had decided that this weekend we would go into the countryside, today being the most favourable day. Our destination was about 90 minutes or 3 hours depending on who you spoke to in the office to a place known locally as ‘Tulou’. Set in the mountains this is the ancestral home of the ‘Hakka’ minority of China and their houses have been added to the World Heritage Sites.

So it was an early start, well for me anyway as we had to be ready outside the office building by 9am. Bad timing because as we crossed over the busy road using the footbridge two teams of cleaners were hosing down the paved area in front of the building. Whilst Keith waded through the wet I chose to go under the canopy of the ‘Rainbow Store’ and keep my feet dry. We hadn’t long to wait before the car pulled up. Getting to it meant stretching across some deep puddles especially in the gutter!

Already the car was almost full with three familiar faces namely Sunny, Jenny and Mr. Cheng (Keith’s Taiwanese student) the other 4 faces being new to me. There was Capt. Mao, Mr. Zhang from the Crew department (who was also a keen photographer) and in the front with our driver was an older man who the girls referred to as ‘Uncle’ and was the Company’s Documentation Manager. Now we were on our way over the toll bridge into Jimei and out into the countryside. However our progress was soon halted by road works and for a minute there I thought I was back in England! Once we had cleared them we had a most enjoyable journey. On the flat we drove by never ending fields of banana trees, occasionally seeing small ponds full of ducks. The only ‘villages’ we saw were a few small houses alongside large rectangle brick buildings with rows of small square windows blocked with pieces of cardboard. These too housed bananas. As we moved to the higher ground we still saw the odd banana tree but now it was oranges or perhaps grapefruit by the size of the fruit and all in the green stage.

We climbed higher still with forests on the upper level and rice paddies down below and a river running through the valley. Then we came to the terraces all the way down the hillside with pools of rice or rows of dark tea bushes. The tall trees fascinated me as most of the trunk was bare with only a small amount of foliage compared to its size. I wondered if the farmers had stripped off the lower branches to let in more light for growing crops. On the ridges the single line of neatly planted trees looked amazing and from a distance almost formed a pattern in the mountainside.

Finally we arrived at the ‘Gateway to Fujian Tulou’ and a comfort stop whilst Jenny went to buy a ticket to enter the site. I had read in our Guide Book that admission was free but then it had been printed before Tulou became a Heritage Site. Our Book also said that at one time President Ronald Reagan and the CIA thought these round houses were missile silos! Through the gate we still had a fair distance to travel to reach a village where we had chance to look round these amazing round, oval and square shaped earthen buildings some over 700 years old.

Leaving the car and passing through a small gateway we stepped into a cobbled courtyard open to the elements. We noticed a well and an area which turned out to be where the washing was done. Supported on two brick columns was a well worn wooden plank on which the clothes were scrubbed. The washing done it was then hung on a large bamboo frame to dry. Sunny tried to wind me up by telling me the bamboo structure was for drying a type of noodle! Of course I didn’t believe her - the wood was far too dirty! The 5 storey interior was entirely built of wood and this particular building turned out to be an hotel, each level reached by a narrow wooden staircase. At ground level I had noticed that two adjoining doors were marked ‘kitchen’ and ‘restaurant’ written in English and thought it a little strange for a communal building but at the time didn’t know it was an hotel. By the gateway stood a modern round summerhouse type structure which looked completely out of place and I thought spoiled the effect of this ancient building.

Back into the street we walked by the fast flowing river where not only the ducks were enjoying themselves but Sunny too as she walked across the stepping stones, one or two of them being covered in water. Mr. Zhang was having a good time too taking photos of us all as well as being our guide as he had been here before.

Crossing the river were several different style of bridges, some old some very new and uninteresting. Over one of the more ornate bridges narrow steps lead us to an area where tall thin carved columns resembling lances reached up to the sky. I had moved to an area by a stage where a young girl was having a lesson playing one of the square stringed instruments using fine hammers. I also spoke to a lady with young boys who although kept smiling at me were too shy to let me take their photograph. I got them in the end! At the side of the stage was an embellished red velvet sedan chair. Although we had been speaking basic English the lady was unable to understand me when I asked about the chair so Sunny came to translate. It was a wedding chair in which the bride was carried through the village as her husband escorted her to his home after the ceremony. So it was later when Keith told me about these thin columns that were dedicated to the memory of some of the village elders.

Walking back Sunny and I disappeared into another house where an old man was sitting in the corner close to two ornate wooden bird cages. He was joined by three young black puppies and on asking if I may take a photo he smiled and nodded. Another house we were to visit was again spoilt by tourism and a small shrine was being used to shelter several motorbikes and the chickens even though the incense burners gave the impression prayers were regularly said. We stopped going into some of the other houses because through the doorway we could see a circle of stalls. Sunny said not everyone was local some were just here to ‘do business’. We did however stop to look at a local artists work and from a distance Keith and I admired a view of the houses and countryside painted on a woven basket lid, but on closer inspection the basket was not very good. Inside his small gallery was a huge painting that ‘said it all’ but already framed in a large heavy wooden frame it was too big to take home – and where would we hang it?

Sunny was getting hungry and lunch was to be our next stop so it was back into the car. We arrived at a restaurant which was very busy in fact I think we occupied the last table but then it appeared we were the last to eat. Service was slow and when Jenny went to investigate came back to say only one cooker! So a plate of duck gizzard and a dish of salted peanuts, on the house because of the delay, were put before us. We had eaten the duck several times much to Sunny’s surprise and this particular dish is generally eaten thinly sliced and cold and is quite tasty especially when dipped in soya sauce. All diners are usually given a small split dish of soya sauce and vinegar when there is a selection of cold food. At last the food began to arrive, only not before Jenny had returned to the kitchen again and come back with a steamed bun in her hand, but it was noticeably very salty and some of the others didn’t like that. It was food, good and plenty of variety from chicken, duck, meat and fish all cooked country style which makes a nice change.

Back on the road more photo stops before visiting another settlement. We had to leave the car and walk a short distance through the countryside. Parked across the road from our vehicle was a large 4X4 emblazoned with ‘Discovery Channel’ signs with all the equipment at the rear on which to fix a movie camera. Arriving at the settlement we meandered the narrow streets and came across a little girl stood by a painting. No sign of the artist but with a colourful palette and all the brushes how could she not resist ‘having a go’ at mixing the paints without actually touching the canvas. By now a group of Japanese tourists armed with large expensive cameras making mine look quite inadequate had caught up with us. After taking a discreet photo it seemed I had been observed by the Japanese and now we had ‘a little celebrity’ as they all crouched down to take a similar shot! She seemed to take it all in her stride as she posed for them.

As we were about to leave we began to hear thunder. We had watched the dark skies get closer but I was not worried as I had brought our umbrellas. We didn’t hit the rain until we were in the car and on our way down the mountainside and then it only lasted a few minutes before we were back into the blue skies and sunshine. As we travelled along the chattering and laughing subsided and on looking round saw the girls had fallen asleep. Once we were out of the mountain region we came home a different route stopping in Zhangzhou City for supper in a waterside hotel.

Once again we experienced excellent food and drink. I stayed on the fresh fruit juice with our driver whilst I lost count of how many bottles of beer the others got through. So much ‘gambei’ (bottoms up) with the girls keeping up with the men! We thanked Capt Mao and especially our driver for such a lovely day out, one we will talk about for a long time.

It was very dark when we left Zhangzhou and our driver could not go very fast as all the oncoming vehicles had the car lights on full beam, so it was after 9.30 when we were dropped by our apartment. Once again we thanked everyone and thanked Mr. Mao for our present of a large model of the ‘Tulou’ houses.

CHINA 2010 JULY 12th to 16th

MONDAY

The hot weather continues and like mad dogs we English venture out into the mid-day sun - well 2pm. Keith has decided he needs a haircut and has asked one of his students to write in Chinese ‘50% off’. He got another student to verify the note just in case! There are many salons in our immediate area all staffed by young men with ‘way out hairdos’ so we would explore further into the old part of the city and hopefully find somewhere a little more sedate. Not too far away several young men were lazing about outside an empty salon as most people go in the evening to get their hair done. “It’s as good as any” he says and in we go. After going upstairs to have his hair washed ‘007’ set about drying it before beginning the trim. Did I use the word ‘TRIM’. Well all was fine until ‘007’ brought out the electric shears. At least I stopped him taking them too far up the back of Keith’s head. But the lad was determined he would get rid of everyone one of Keith’s waves. Let’s say when ‘007’ had finished Keith probably won’t be visiting the hairdressers for the rest of our stay!

We wandered round more of the narrow streets eventually finding ourselves in a different part of the street market and viewing more unusual food. I wondered what the bright red steamed buns would taste like, or the flat black ones next to them or even the overblown muffins with red bits in. At a stall where the man was grinding dried chillies into powder two boys holding their noses watched the process.

We decided at lunchtime that we needed some coasters for the tables, especially the glass topped coffee table. A more tourist place would be a good starting point for our search and so we caught the ‘Rapid Bus’ to the Railway Station. Next to the Station is a large shopping mall ‘PCD Stores’ but this was floor upon floor of mostly shoe and clothes shops. Leaving the store we went down the subway where again as far as the eye could see was more shops. Everything was so bright and clean and not so crowded but despite the number of shops we couldn’t find what we were looking for. We did however find an excellent Guide Book written by an American Professor who now lives in Xiamen with his family. It is the best guide book I have ever come across containing not only information about Xiamen and the immediate area but also about China’s customs and legends and food in particular. Keith has recommended it to his students as it does make good reading and humorous too, although we have groaned at some of the Professor’s puns. There is even a small section on walks around the hillsides in the city explored and written by an Australian lady. Some look a little too strenuous for us but ‘we’ll give it a go at the shorter ones!’

TUESDAY

I found my coasters in ‘Rainbow Supermarket’ - now why didn’t I think of looking there first.

We decided to go and eat in ‘Haiwan Park’ this evening. Again it’s not too far from our home and is situated by the sea on one side and ‘Yungdang Lake’ on the other. The bars and restaurants were beginning to set up for the evening so we explored the park before eating. A good fairground for those who like being shaken up and turned upside down! I prefer the lake areas and the one in this park had been split into different sections and levels with walkways in all directions. The water lilies are just beginning to emerge which made a pleasant change from the lotus flower. A couple of large mounds proved an ideal place to fly a kite or if you are a kid to run up and down. With plenty of stone tables and stools under the shade of the trees it’s ideal for those wishing to picnic or play cards. As the sun began to set we returned to one of the restaurants. This was more like the eating places in the parks in Dalian with lots of skewered food. We had ordered a dish of ‘butterfly cockles’ but a foil wrapped parcel of stringy mushrooms and another vegetable arrived. Not our order but the young assistant begged us to try as there were no cockles. We stuck to our guns and refused ordering prawn kebabs instead. It was dark when we finished eating and drinking so the park was now illuminated with rows of ever changing coloured lights especially the lights that were set in diamond shapes on the floor by the long row of fountains. These too were illuminated but no ‘dancing’ tonight which was a shame. At last we saw a few ladies dancing and a mother with two youngsters we had followed from the restaurant was joining in. Her little girl with pigtails high on her head and wrapped tight in coloured bands joined in, her brother not being so enthusiastic getting into trouble for standing in the way at times. We returned to the road by walking over the lake where a couple of the white water lilies were in bloom. So much for the myth that they only open in sunlight! We could hear the loud croaking of frogs but failed to see any. They do right to hide as they could end up in the cookpot!

WEDNESDAY
We needed to buy some blank CDs from the ‘Electronic City’. Keith had asked his students if anyone knew where this store was, so armed with a rough map we found it was not too far from our apartment. In fact we had walked by the building several times without realising what was inside. 5 floors of everything one could possibly want to do with computing plus all the well known brands of cameras. I was quite taken up with a bright pink silicone keyboard that can be easily rolled up available at 45 yuan (£4.50) Crossing over the road we found ‘PC World’ and even more computer shops.

We had passed a small park set on a street corner so went to have a walk around it. It was only small but in its day had many water features such as a stream, waterfall and dancing fountain but it looked as though it was a long time since they had been running. Once again the park had been thoughtfully designed with large square wooden planters set on decking. There was even a toilet discretely hidden at the back of the park which I could easily be missed if I had not seen a lady coming out of the doorway.

We walked by a very smart apartment block the entrance guarded by two very large gold winged women either side of doors with intricate patterns of gold in the panels. I wonder how much it costs to live here? We walked on to ‘Yundang Lake’ following the winding path under the shade of the trees. Xiamen Island has the nickname ‘Egret Island’ because of the number of these birds that come to roost every day. I bet we could count on one hand the number we have seen since our arrival. I can only assume they have moved else where due to the amount of development continuing to take place.

We decided to return home as it was so hot and had no sooner stepped into our apartment when we heard the sound of breaking glass. Stepping onto the balcony we saw several policemen walking into the apartment block opposite. In one of the street level shops someone was throwing a hammer through a plate glass window. We have no idea what is sold in the shop as all we have seen are large sealed brown boxes stood in the windows. Later when I looked out the area of concrete supporting the window had been removed and a man was cleaning up the area.

THURSDAY
Because the very hot weather is continuing it was late afternoon when we took a walk along the waterfront to watch the activity in the area. Most of the large boats, similar to the one we went on last weekend, were tied up with no sign of life on any of them. The ‘Dancing Waters’ opposite ‘Luijiang Harbourview Hotel’ were silent but between the ferry points one water feature was in operation. Water cascaded down large carved stone columns set in a deep rectangle trough whilst in between small fountains bubbled up. There were two of these features and sitting on the wall of one was a young man carrying out his ablutions! He must have sensed me watching him as he washed his feet because on turning round he got out. Walking away I almost shouted to tell him he had left his flannel behind! We walked down the wide pavement as far as the impressive ‘Wyndham Hotel.’ After crossing over the road to head back home I heard what I thought was the noise of a frog. Looking over the neatly trimmed hedge I was amazed to find a small pond with water lilies still in tight bud but no sign of a frog just a continuous calling.

FRIDAY

Keith was home early today and with clear blue skies it seemed an ideal afternoon to visit the ‘Botanical Gardens’ overlooking Xiamen. If we were energetic we could have found our way down to ‘Xiamen University’ below according to the Guide Book. Trying to find a bus that would take us there proved difficult for me. The writing on the map is so small and there are so many buses running along the same roads our best solution was to go by taxi. It didn’t take too long and so the fare was the minimum rate of 8 yuan, plus an extra 1 because of the price of fuel. If we got there before 7am we could get in for free now we had to pay 40 yuan. There were several prices on the board and as an English couple arrived I said because we didn’t understand Chinese they would sell us the most expensive ticket anyway.

Once through the turnstile we had to climb several steps before making a decision which track we should take. We chose to go up yet more steps as the lower level sounded very noisy with local visitors. It was so quiet under the welcome shade of the trees. Higher and higher we climbed getting views in certain points of Xiamen’s skyline. Suddenly we came to a small temple and then another. I bet if we had wanted to visit these we would have had trouble locating them.

The first temple was hidden among the boulders where between a large crack many statues had been placed. Climbing a few more steps we came to an area where a young Monk was talking to an old lady who was more interested in watching TV.

The second temple looked quite new and a different style with a large round building inthe centre of the complex. There appeared to be no-one here, certainly no visitors. Bells hung from the corners of the roofs and a gust of wind caused one or two of them to ring. I also noticed that there were no phoenixes on any of these roofs.

All the time we walked along the meandering path we passed hundreds of large boulders some with large bright red characters others with inscriptions partly covered with plant life or eroded due to the elements. Having felt we had done enough climbing at the next junction we took the route that would lead us down rather than up.

At the lower level we walked across stepping stones over a small pond only to have to return. Then we came to a walkway across again passing by the large rocks. Down an old rough stone road we came to a grassed area where surprisingly the kiosk sold beer. There was the usual picnic tables advertising soft drinks but they had seen better days. Under the circle of stone shelters we found one in better condition and with a few plastic chairs scattered around so I chose to sit on one of those rather than the bench. No-one else was around and with the lawn sprinklers at play numerous birds came down to feed. Across the small lake was a stage with a backdrop of two shapes representing lotus petals with rows of lights leading down from the tip to almost the bottom of the shape. We stayed a while before moving onto the ‘Flower Exhibition Halls’.

Set by another lake with a large brilliant white statue of a bare chested woman standing in the water we followed a trail that lead us through various rooms where a limited display of pot plants were on show. I was a little disappointed as I expected to see more exotic specimens such as orchids. An elderly lady tried to have a conversation with me about the size of the colourful koi fish swimming around in the lake.

We had walked for around 3 hours and there was still a lot to see. Now was a good time to get a taxi home – if we left it any longer everyone would be leaving the offices and we would have a problem – so we left the park convinced we shall be back again as I think we have only see a few of the 10,000 rocks supposedly set in this vast garden.

CHINA 2010 SUNDAY 11th

The beeping of reversing wagons disturbed my sleep. Opening the curtain I see the traffic is moving as freely as every but there is now a row of cones stretching down part of the road!

11am we have now yet received a phone call about today’s plans. Just after 11.15 the phone rang and a young sounding girl told me they had arrived. Outside the apartment building a young girl dressed in a green polo and jeans came to greet us and escort us to the car where inside another girl was sitting on the back seat. We said “hello” and climbed in to go to lunch.

A drive into another part of the city passing the ‘Railway Station’ the driver stopped and we all got out. We were to go to a ‘Magical Restaurant’. Okay, and walking along the very wide footpath at a time when everyone goes to eat wasn’t too bad. We walked up to a plain looking place with flat plate glass windows, a couple of wooden dolls to one side and to the other a large model of a pink lotus flower set on a plinth. Jenny, the girl who had greeted us, put a hand inside the flower and the doors opened. I just had to look and saw a large glass ball partly concealed by the petals. Inside were more of the ‘dolls’ stood in corners by cubicles with black seating. We were shown to a round table concealed by a curtain of purple beads with large clear glass pendants hanging from the bottom. Again black seating that included two large chairs with a flower appliquéd into the fabric on the chair back. The menus were delivered – a tall thin heavy metal cover decorated with patterns of small bright coloured beads revealed pages of different styles of food. Large black curved shaped beakers of hot water were brought whilst we perused the menu. Again we left it to Jenny and Sunny to make the decisions even though there were English translations. This was magical and the two tea pots did not contain tea but clear chicken or duck soup! So much food was ordered the table could not cope with it all and so the black beakers disappeared without my noticing. It must have happened whilst I was moving the tray of cutlery onto the curved sofa where I was sitting with Jenny. Our meal started with a glass dish of crème caramel only we poured the caramel sauce onto the white crème. A large bowl of beef and rice baked in a cheese sauce, spicy beef smothered in chopped spring onion and ginger, smoked duck, cream of mushroom soup, green leaf vegetable, baby plum tomatoes, pickled bamboo shoot and a baked fish were just some of the ordered food. It has to be said this the time of day when the Chinese enjoy their main meal but then they do get up very early.

A visit to the restroom was something else. First a decision had to be made in the communal area as to which of the two doors I should enter. Two artificial peaches were hanging on one door whilst on the other door a banana accompanied the two peaches – guess that will be the men’s room! When it came to washing my hands the taps operated once I had been able to light up a face at the end of the row of sinks. I put my hands over every part that I thought would light up but failed. I didn’t feel too bad about it as a man at the other row of sinks was having the same problem. Sunny obviously has the knack as she got it to work for me.

Time for us to return to the car and be driven on to an ‘International Cinema’ for a 2pm film show. With 7 cinemas in the complex and different prices starting at 60 yuan we were going to see ‘Toy Story’. Jenny obtained the tickets and passing through the ticket barrier leading to the cinemas we were handed a pair of dark sunglasses. Our film was in no. 6 and our seats were quite high up. The fixed chairs were very comfy with high backs including a head rest and plenty of leg room. An advert began for ‘Shrek’ and as I put on my glasses I told Keith to do the same. Amazing it was in 3D. ‘Toy Story’ in 3D began and the graphics just made the picture so much better. We had no problem with the film as it was in English with Chinese translation across the bottom that did not interfere with the picture.

Back outside into the hot sunshine and then into the car to be driven to the ‘Jimei district’ of Xiamen, passing the airport before taking the toll bridge over the sea. In Jimei we toured around the University where Jenny had studied Economics for 4 years. Then it was a stop at a snack bar where some of the students were eating large plates of ice covered in fruits, similar to the mango ice we had shared with Minder, which looked delicious with generous portions of fruit. Jenny asked did we want milk or honey – we chose honey as we were not sure what we were going to sample here. Eventually we returned to the car carrying a bag containing a large covered beaker and a small plastic spoon. Our next stop was the beautiful grounds and buildings of Xiamen University where we sat on the steps leading down to a small lake to sample a ‘Taiwenese fun drink’ containing lumps of black jelly, an assortment of small different flavoured beans and peanuts that floated in the clear brown liquid. Actually it was quite tasty. Having had no exercise we took the chance to stroll a short distance around the grounds before leaving. It was now around 5pm and Sunny and Jenny wanted to take us to dinner!

“A little too early” we said so to fill in the next hour we visited the memorial to a Mr. Tan Kah-Kee. (I had seen these Chinese style buildings as we drove over the bridge.) Set by the sea we explored the grounds which were once the residence of this businessman who left all his money to be used for education when he died in 196l. In one of the buildings we arrived in time to hear a short music recital. A group of costumed people gave a performance using a range of heavy metal bells hanging in rows from a large frame at the rear of the stage, to the right was another frame of fan shaped rows of slate, these instruments being played by three women, 2 on the bells, and in the centre of the stage sat a lady plucking a horizontal stringed instrument whilst the only gentleman blew on a wooden instrument constructed of several small upright pipes in a tight circle. The performance ended with their rendition of Acker Bilk and his Paramount Jazz Band’s ‘Midnight in Moscow’ a popular tune in the 1960s. Leaving this building we walked down an avenue of small pictures carved in stone that depicted China’s history and its legends set on a large wall. They were so beautiful and in such excellent condition. Around the sea wall were more carvings showing botanical specimens, insects and reptiles native to China and each one having its name in gold Chinese characters. This area was also the resting place of Mr. Tan Kah-Kee’s remains which had been transported here by a special train from Beijing after a state funeral in the city. Looking over the wall at the exposed sea bed we saw a few men working among long lines of square net cages secured to the sea bed. The girls did not know what would be caught in these small nets. Moving round the wall we came to the beach area which was now busy with families enjoying the late sunshine. Close to us several boats, not all in a seaworthy condition, had been pulled high up the sand. By the water’s edge a large ship had run aground, a long time ago by the look of it. Bet that Captain is no longer at sea! The traditional style of colourful roofs continued around the waterfront. Such a lovely place and so much quieter than Xiamen but the girls did say that was only because most of the students have returned to their home town. I had asked Jenny how many students had been in her Economics class – 100.

By now it was after 6pm and Jenny wanted us to visit a park with ‘Dancing Fountains’ that played at 7.30 but only for a short time. We drove to Jimei’s best known restaurant with 5 floors and had yet more food! A quick getaway but unfortunately we could not reach the gardens in time as the route she wanted to take was closed to all vehicles apart from the bicycle and motorbike. Our driver was unfamiliar with this area and despite slowing down to read the various road signs he was unable to discover an alternative route. Another time perhaps but we said not to worry as we had really had a lovely day in their company and had done something out of the ordinary for us – like going to the cinema.

CHINA 2010 SATURDAY 10th

10.30am we had a telephone call to say could we be ready for 11am. Downstairs Yeti, a Secretary from ‘no.1 Labor, Hailong Manning’, was waiting to greet us and take us to lunch and then we would take a boat ride. A good idea as the sky was fairly clear and for the first time I can see from our balcony the mountain ridge in the distance standing above a large illuminated hoarding advertising a Chinese Bank in the foreground.

We didn’t drive very far as she wished to take us up to the restaurant of the ‘Luijiang Harborview Hotel’ the first hotel in Xiamen to install a lift. On the 6th floor we were shown into a large room and Yeti pointed to a table by a window that had not yet been laid. As we took our seats at this table dishes, bowls, small beakers and chopsticks were soon brought along with a welcome pot of tea. What a wonderful view no wonder she wanted to get here early as the room soon began to fill. In the foyer people were prepared to wait to get a table by one of the windows. Yeti said many people come here for the whole day to admire the ever-changing view, eat delicious snacks and drink tea. I can see why – we were a little reluctant to leave. The food she had chosen was very good, many light dishes such as prawn, octopus, thin slices of unsmoked salmon, beef and two varieties of very light dumplings all containing seafood. Most of the dishes were accompanied by a small bowl of sauce one or two containing a lump of ‘Wasabi’ sauce, a very fierce flavour. Now I am aware of this vicious paste I treat it with respect and carefully pass the food over it rather than heavy dunking! Whilst we ate and chatted we watched the ferry boats going to and from the islands and on the promenade saw many coaches unload their passengers. Directly on the pavement opposite was the ‘Dancing Waters’ where not only children but adults ran under the fountains to cool down. The ladies paraded up and down under the shade of their summer umbrellas. Because of the heat I have noticed most of the younger generation wear shorts of various lengths and styles. On paying the bill Yeti received a pale blue ticket, a Chinese form of scratch card. She was delighted to see she had won 10 yuan. As we got up off our seats someone was already taking our places.

Another short drive down the dual carriageway before stopping by one of the ferry stations Yeti went ahead of us to buy the tickets and then two lady members of staff drove us down the road to another station to board a large ornate boat. We had to push by people waiting in the narrow queueing area between the rails leading to the ticket office. As soon as we were on board the gate was closed and we were on our way. Downstairs was full, the next deck had one or two single seats at tables but Yeti decided we would go on the top deck which cost extra money. It was not so busy here so we were able to sit a table by the rail. A lovely breeze was most welcoming as we sailed between Xiamen and Gulanyu into the open waters. Our trip was to take us to an island belonging to Taiwan, the nearest to China and as we sailed along we drank tea from a large glass. We had very good views of the coast road and the beach areas but most of the beaches were empty at this time of day. Ships of varying sizes were at anchor or sailed by. White tops began to appear on the waves as we neared the island and those travelling in the speedboats were having a bumpy ride as they raced ahead of us. We made a brief stop off the island which we could see was manned by the Taiwanese Army, although we didn’t see any men we saw several lookout posts. Returning to Xiamen we travelled back even closer to the coast road. Now people were on the beach and in the water. At one point we saw many small sailing boats taking part in a competition. In the next area wind surfers were having a great time in the stronger breeze. We had views of a 5 star hotel sheltering under the mountainside, saw the tall building of Xiamen University and when we were about to land Yeti pointed out that we could see the office building, the green glass structure, not too far away. Zooming in with my camera I could also see our apartment block. Our two hour cruise over we returned home for a rest and would be collected again around 5ish.

Just after 4pm Helen rang to say they would be coming at 4.30. It took us 5 minutes to get a lift to our floor and apologised for keeping them waiting. Helen had brought one of Keith’s students, Mr. Cheung who comes from Taiwan. Yeti and the car then arrived and we all climbed in to be taken down to a beach area. We stopped at the start of the ‘wooden walkway‘ about 2kms in length running alongside the beach. A very popular place at all times of the day and night. By now the tide was well out and I was surprised to see just how deep a drop in the beach level there was and how many large rocks were scattered along this section. Behind us the sky looked black and I thought we were going to get some rain, but it soon disappeared, whilst ahead of us the sky was blue and the sun still shining. I felt we were walking back to the Island we had sailed to this afternoon as we got closer to it. Yeti was to take us to dinner at a nearby restaurant and when we reached it Helen said “goodbye” as she had a meeting to attend. Mr. Cheung was also going to leave but Helen and Yeti asked if we would persuade him to join us which he did. It gave him chance to practice his English and as he relaxed he became more confident.

Yeti had trouble trying to find the entrance to ‘The White House’ and as we followed her down a rough track we wondered just where we were going to eat. Stopping to ask a group of girls eating ‘junk food’ before going to work as they were all dressed in the same uniform she learnt the entrance was round the other side. Retracing our steps we found the entrance and were taken upstairs to the second floor where I could just see out of the high window. The wide sill was an ideal place to put my shopping bag which contained our cameras and umbrellas useful for sun and rain! This was a high ceilinged building which echoed the voices of the customers already eating. A small reading book handed to Yeti turned out to be the menu and as we studied the pictures I was pleased to see an English translation of the dishes. Page after page of food so I left it to Yeti to make the decisions as her choice at lunchtime had been excellent. Ordering beer for Keith it turned out to be ‘fresh’ so he had a jug to himself and for once a sensible sized tankard rather than the small glass. The rest of us drank ‘plum juice’. As usual the food was good – especially crab and bean curd and a fish in wine with the pieces of fish cut so the bones were not a problem. Yeti and Mr. Cheung tucked in and at one point Mr. Cheung said he was eating far too much food but did not like to see waste. We remarked about always leaving a little of the food so our host would not think that we had not enough to eat if we cleared the plate. He, and I think Yeti, were not aware of this custom.

It was dark when we left and the area was now illuminated with many coloured lights. We walked along the road stopping at a suitable place for the car to collect us. We dropped Mr. Cheung outside his accommodation which is used by all the students and is opposite Xiamen University.

When we began to relax at home we noticed how noisy it sounded outside. Going out on to the balcony to investigate we found that the main road is being renewed. The traffic is moving easily around the few workmen and the wagons and machine that is stripping the old road surface and there is not a cone in sight!

CHINA 2010 FRIDAY 9th

We really must buy a clock so before we do anything else we will return to an area near the ‘Walking Street’. The shorts Keith bought are okay for indoors so he needs to buy another pair. I had already seen some in ‘Trust Mart’ so we would go there first as it is awkward to shop in the supermarket if you already have bags of shopping. Setting out from home was pass a couple of stalls outside the ‘beer kiosk’. Today we were amazed to see the lady who has a dress stall washing a large electric fan! In ‘Trust Mart’ there was nothing suitable so we called at the ‘Apple’ shop where we had more success. As Keith began to barter he realised a sale was on so it was a waste of time trying to get the price reduced any further. We found the string of clock shops and as I had already seen one I liked in the first shop it was only a case of bartering again. This time the ‘boy done good’ by getting the price down from 88 to 69 and that included the battery.

Instead of returning straight home we walked down side roads until we eventually came across a large street market. A wonderful sight on either side of the road with many stalls selling fresh seafood, fruit and vegetables. Behind them an array of other shops included one which was an ‘Aladdins Cave’ and I found some ‘S’ shaped hooks on which to hang the coat hangers on the drying rail. Leading off about half way along the street was a long covered section that we didn’t venture down today but could see this is where I should be able to buy my meat. Examining the fish stalls I saw all the crabs were tied up with coloured strips of rag to prevent them from moving. We also saw some unusual fish such as silvery grey ones that looked rather bloated and had small spikes on their bodies. I immediately thought of the porcupine! Laid on the floor where three hard shelled ray like species complete with a thin tail. Further along baskets were piled high containing chickens, ducks and rabbits. Again I thought about one of the recipes in the book that came with my new microwave. ‘Duck in Beer’ – first get your duck and kill it! At the end of the street we found it was near ‘Si Bei’ station and so I know now why the supermarkets in our area do not stock very much meat and fish.

The sun began to shine as we reached home so whilst I caught up on writing the diary Keith took one of our six dining chairs out onto the balcony and drank a cold beer!

Late afternoon we took the Rapid Bus three stops down the line as our plan was to finish at the top end of ‘Yundang Neihu’ and the adjoining park. Walking along the streets after we had alighted from the bus we came to an avenue of lilac coloured flowering trees and under the shade of the branches was another street market. This was a much smaller market but so much cleaner. The colourful stalls displayed flowers, fruit, watermelons the size of very large footballs, meat and fish. Everything was so artistically arranged, even the local farmer selling bunches of green leaf vegetables had them overhanging the edge of the long table.

We arrived in the park to find it very busy with children playing and the older generation under the shade of the trees so they were almost in the dark playing cards or chequers. One or two people practiced their martial art skills but once again no sound of music. It seemed people were just happy to wander around the meandering paths around this vast lake. Despite the heat there was a surprisingly large number of joggers. As the sun set we came across three very large fish restaurants all with the same name and with many cars and buses arriving at the one nearest the main road. We had walked a fair distance this afternoon and on reaching the main road had hoped we could get a taxi but at this time of the day they were all taken and not knowing the bus routes and numbers yet we had to walk home. It wasn’t a bad thing as we came across a very nice place to eat where all the walls were decorated with the colourful masks of the ‘Beijing Opera’ characters. We had a very nice meal too, especially their version of the Squirrel Fish. Once again the staff could not have been friendlier towards us.

As we left the restaurant Mander called to say that we will be taken out tomorrow. It was 9pm when we arrived home and it is still hot and sticky with no breeze.

CHINA 2010 THURSDAY 8th

All go at home as at last we have got round to putting a clothes line across the centre of the fixed rail so I can hang out the bed linen. Having bought the line I have noticed my neighbours have several very long coat hangers on which they are hanging their duvet covers. My idea may not look as tidy but I think they will dry quicker.

Since we have been in Xiamen the weather has been hot, sunny and at times humid. Today it feels quite pleasant so when Keith finishes work around 4pm we will go for a walk. Whilst I had been shopping this morning someone had left a note stuck in our door frame. Of course it was in Chinese and included a telephone number. At lunchtime I asked Keith to get it translated. It turned out to be an enquiry about buying a house!

Late afternoon and armed with our map we set out to find Zhongshan Park. My feet were blistering badly with the heat and heavy sandals I had brought from England. So the first stop was in a small shoe shop where I purchased a very comfy pair of lightweight leather sandals for 59 yuan. Keith said I should have bartered – at that price! Keith has not brought any shorts and so a few shops further on he came to a stand with an assortment for sale. He began to barter ringing the price down from 29 to 24 – every little helps!

We found the park which was quite busy at this time of the day but it is in the city centre and there are many large apartment blocks in the immediate vicinity. In the landscaped area there is a nice small lake with boats for hire and several bridges to cross. I have noticed that there are no ‘Pavilions’ only the shade of trees where roots hang down from the lower branches forming a curtain around the trunk and no one seems to play a musical instrument or practice singing. Perhaps this happens later in the evenings. A few older people perform Tai Chi. Following the path around the lake we came across another island where a building was in the final stages of demolition. The sound of a large machine breaking up the brick and concrete disturbed the peace in an area where grandfathers were enjoying a game of badminton with their grandchildren. Toddlers practiced walking in their ‘sqeaking’ sandals and one young boy in front of us moved along on a two piece skateboard joined together by a large metal hinge. The only time he needed help was when he fell off and Mum had to hold him upright until he had it moving again. He could turn in any direction quite easily as the board only has two wheels and once on the move needed no more propulsion. Much heavier than a traditional board we had seen these in the stores in Dalian two years ago.

By now the sun was beginning to set so we made our way home by a different route. We walked down some narrow streets and a narrow alley to reach the familiar overhead road on which the ‘Rapid Bus Transit’ runs. As we began to climb the steps of a footbridge I thought I had found a fishmongers but on closer inspection saw it was one of the many street eating places. The layout of the various types of seafood was first class. We discovered yet more eating places but for tonight we shall dine at home.

CHINA 2010 WEDNESDAY 7th

We spent most of the afternoon riding the overhead ‘Bus Rapid Transit’ on line 3 which will take us to the Conference Centre on the east coast of the island. A very quick system on an air conditioned bus fitted with TVs to keep passengers entertained. We were happy to look at the landscape of ancient and modern buildings and landscaped avenues. We soon arrived at our destination to find a new very large station is in its final stages of construction.

We walked a fair distance down a wide road with large urns of red and yellow flowers running down the central grass area. Unfortunately nothing was taking place in the Conference and Exhibition Centre today so it was quite deserted. It seemed much bigger than the one in Dalian and unlike Dalian’s there was plenty of parking spaces. Next door was a large hotel built in the shape of a cruise liner. Behind the hotel was a large open field and under the shade of a few low trees people were sat. One woman was in charge of a large display of kites, presumably for hire by the state of them. She tried to entice us to have one but we declined and moved over the rough field, where someone was trying to fly a red parachute kite but having no success due to the lack of wind, to reach the promenade. As we walked along heading north several Westerners came by on bicycles – in this heat!

We met an Englishman taking a break from his job as Production Manager for an English Company, he didn’t say which and we didn’t ask. He has lived in Xiamen for the last couple of years. Ahead of us was another large area under construction. Our companion told us this area was to be Asia’s largest marina for 800 boats. I asked if they would ever fill the marina only to be informed that recently in one day 20 moorings and apartments had been sold. At last week’s Xiamen Motor Show 1,000 cars had been sold.

At sea two dredgers were busy at work close to the proposed Marina sea wall and close to the shore a man was wading through waist deep water collecting something between rows of sticks protruding out of the sea. The smell was not very pleasant and we felt we had walked far enough in this direction so turned around.

As we approached the Conference Centre we said goodbye and set about retracing our steps to the bus station once again encountering the cyclists. In a row of buildings we spotted a coffee shop and called in for a welcome cold drink. A very nice place where we were made very welcome by the young girl tending the bar, and was even more surprised at their reasonable prices.

Back in the street we failed to find the bus station but on showing our map to a man he pointed us in the right direction. We had to walk past the new station, turn left and walk up a shady incline to arrive at a very small brick kiosk which was currently the substitute station. We have each been issued with a travel pass so do not have to queue up for tickets. Our card is swiped as we pass it over a large ‘button’ at the turnstile and on exiting the turnstyle at our destination the card is again swiped and the cost deducted from the card. We have 100 yuan and fares are normally 1 yuan, but with using the card the fare is a little cheaper. The buses are very frequent so we do not have too long to wait. On this system there is no overtaking and although a very good system it does not go everywhere so we need to pay attention as to which of the 3 lines we should take. The station close to our apartment is ‘Si Bei’ and is only 2 stops from the terminal which is also close to home. Leaving the station we took a detour home and found yet more suitable eating places, one of which we would try tonight.

The restaurant we chose looked as though it had recently opened because the gold drapped pillars still looked fresh and inside timber and workmen’s tools had been moved into a corner. We were shown upstairs into a private room as these have air conditioning units. Floor standing fans are usually used elsewhere. The young man who attended to our order practiced his English which was somewhat helpful to us, but they do not always understand what we are saying to them. We ordered our usual 3 dishes, 2 of which came with a burner where the flames were going up the side of the metal dish. As Keith tried to reduce the height of the flame we had a problem. The box of paper hankies used as napkins had been placed next to the dishes, or vice versa, and with the air conditioning blowing our way the exposed tissues caught fire. Keith quickly got hold of them and dropped them onto the glass top but the breeze took them down onto the tablecloth and finally onto the floor by which time one was a pile of ash and I poured some of my tea on to the other which was still alight! He slightly burnt his thumb which must have hurt as he put it in his small glass of beer! No signs of any damage thankfully, and not enough heat to set off the sprinkler system, but we did mention it to our young man when he reappeared to see if we wanted anything else. It will be some time before we return here. On paying the bill we commented how cheap the meal had been and then examining the till receipt found they had not included the beers. When the young man returned with our change Keith showed him the bill but he said it was okay even though we tried to pay for them.

CHINA 2010 TUESDAY 6th

Keith has to work until 4pm today but will be home for a couple of hours at midday. I went to do a little more supermarket shopping but nothing strenuous as we are now feeling tired. I decided we would have chicken for lunch. 22 yuan for a fresh one or 9.80 for a smaller one but already cooked – the cooked one I think, which I would serve with a carrot and cabbage salad. The small plum tomatoes are served as a fruit in China but today they will be included in my salad. Keith arrived home at lunchtime with a present – one of his student’s had given him a Company tie. Was this because he wasn’t wearing a tie yesterday?

Late afternoon when it feels a little cooler we took a walk towards the ‘Walking Street’ where there is no traffic. We were getting into the older part of the city where the shops may look modern but on looking up the buildings are very old and many seem to have retained their shutters. We took note at the number of shops selling clocks and also shoes as my feet are beginning to suffer with blisters due to the heat and wearing heavy sandals. A lot of people were already in the main street, some drinking coffee and tea at the outside stands, many shopping, and others like us just aimlessly wandering along We saw old carved wood panels forming the top of a gateway into a side street and a brass statues of Chinese figures which are very bright in parts touched by the people walking by.

We reached the end of the road which happened to be almost opposite the ferry terminal to Gulangyu. Outside a very nice hotel a man tried to sell Keith a watch. He was somewhat persistent although Keith repeatedly said he was not interested. An offer of 2 watches for 100 yuan and still he refused to buy.

We crossed the road to get rid of him and watched the ferry boats coming and going to the island. Small slow fishing boats moved in the straits with no sign of the men fishing just seeking shelter from the hot sun under a makeshift shelter. We walked past a couple of restaurants and then a modern Government Building with a top to bottom curved frontage and now illuminated.

A short distance further on was yet more eating places and we chose one of these to eat in. All seafood and we made good choices and although the portions were slightly smaller than last night the prices were very good. One particular dish we tried was very small squid with ginger and shredded seaweed and was extremely tasty. However there was something in the sauce which cleared my sinuses and brought tears to our eyes! The feeling soon passed especially with the help of more beer.

I understand that by visiting the following site you will be able to see some photos of Xiamen, none of which are mine I might add :-

http://www.flickr.com/groups/xiamen/pool/