SUNDAY 6th

We have come to the conclusion that it is not such a good idea to have the cafe open 24 hours as once again noisy people disturbed our sleep. Cases have to be out and our rooms vacated by noon so I want to make most of this morning before we depart for Havana airport at 1pm.

I watched a group of snorkelers going out to a reef on one of the small sailboats that we can use but must have an expert onboard . 6 people climbed on something designed for a maximum of 4 which made me glad I wasn’t on it. Our usual sunbeds are occupied by a couple who are doing a similar tour to us travelling with Jules Verne (now part of the Kuoni Group) but instead of returning to Havana for one night after visiting Vinales they stayed in a ‘rain forest’ area where if it had been the right season there would have been an abundance of orchids. The downside was it was a very long journey via the 'Bay of Pigs' to Trinidad. John and Dorothy joined in the conversation informing us they had just seen a ‘frigate bird’ which we had spotted on our walk yesterday, probably not the same one. We settled on nearby sunbeds until 11am when we returned to our room to shower and change.

The cafe is the only place open for food at this time of the day which is okay except when Joaquin came to our table he informed us there was no mint for the mojitos. You should have seen Keith’s face! Goodbyes said to the staff and whilst Keith finished his drink I went for a short walk around the front of the hotel. Today was really hot and surprisingly I still had several photographic opportunities.

Time to board our bus and we are taking 10 people from the last SAGA trip. Strange we have not encountered any of them until now.

A last Pina Colada stop gave me the opportunity to talk to one of the ladies who said the weather had not been that good – heavy showers and the first 4 days in Varadero had been cold and windy so really no chance to sunbathe. Our driver tooted the horn and the lady said we should go. “Not to worry” I responded “We haven’t taken much notice of our rep before, so why should be start now!” Not realising I was joking she returned to the bus. Ellen had taken a sip out of her Pina Colada (almost 3/4s of the glass) and topped it up with rum asking Ken to have a taste. His comment “quite nice!”

We had about another hour’s drive to the airport passing through some lovely coastal scenery but we were seated on the left hand side of the coach. Keith was rather relieved as at one point we drove very slowly over a narrow bridge across a wooded ravine where once again the turkey vultures were flying at eye level.

Arriving at the airport it was not as chaotic as I had expected but we were early. We joined the check in queue, moved on to pay our 25CUCs at the departure tax desk (which Mary Jane had handed out after our Pina Colada stop as she was frightened we would spend it on more drinks!) and then joined the line at Immigration for VIPs, located next to Crew and Diplomats. The process was slow and when all the Crew had been dealt with I took a look to see if the official was still in his booth. We remained in the queue but laughed a lot when I said “I wouldn’t mind” “What being crew or Diplomat?” “Me diplomat – I don’t think so!” My turn came and the official was very nice calling me by me Christian name and asking politely for me to look into the ball camera before handing back my documentation as I thanked him for a wonderful stay in Cuba. Going through security my underwired bra set off the alarm bells but other than that everything else was okay. A short walk down the hall and we were at the VIP Lounge.

It was not a very big place and not a lot of choice in food or drinks. The time at the ‘Melia’ had made me forget about how little food Cuba has. So it was cheese or plastic ham sandwiches, canapé of pickled onion on a stick or a packet of salty crackers. Thankfully they had plenty of rum but no mint so a large cuba libre was the order of the afternoon. We had heard a rumour that our flight was delayed but on being joined by Diane, and much later Tony as he had missed the VIP sign and spent 90 minutes getting through, we saw there was no information on the monitor in the lounge. Diane paid frequent visits to look at the screen and the lady on reception was no help. We listened for the announcements until finally our time came but by now most of the passengers were around Gate 10B waiting to board. Keith made his way through the throng whilst we followed him catching up with Ivor and Marion at the sign marked ‘Upper Class’ who were just about to board.

We are once again sat by the bar with Tony and Diane opposite. After take off Tony was soon asleep and missed his meal. I ordered posh meat pie but was later informed that was a mistake and would I be happy with fillet steak. Keith had ordered chicken and was now wishing he was having steak. As the stewardess cleared away we realised they had run out of the pie. With a 4 day stop over for the crew our stewardess told us she had her boyfriend with her on this trip and they had been having private 3 hour Salsa lessons. Last night they went to a Salsa Club but when her boyfriend saw the Cubans dancing he wouldn’t join in. She wasn’t upset with him – just pleased he was here and had made an effort for her. We all settled down for the night as our chairs turn over to form flat beds on which a thin quilted mattress was laid and then we have a duvet. Despite everyone appearing to be asleep the crew were very noisy in the galley next to our seats so it wasn’t such a peaceful night as I had hoped. Breakfast was served early and I made a wrong choice of choosing blueberry pancakes (thinking they would be as good as KLM) but they were very dry. I repeatedly asked for coffee which arrived in a large mug. Then it was time to fasten seat belts as we descended down into Gatwick around 8.30. Despite the delay in leaving we had made good time and arrived early.

It felt cold, but then we had left temperatures of around 30C, and had to wait at the open bus stop for the hotel bus. Collecting the car keys from hotel reception Keith went to the compound only to find the car had been moved closer to the building. We had a very blustery ride home and when we stopped for a coffee break on the A1 near Doncaster someone let their car door hit the driver’s side of our car so now we have a large dent and a lot of blue paint to remedy. Had we been more alert we should have parked the car well away from other vehicles due to the strong wind. We arrived home mid afternoon and the journey for a Monday had not been as bad as anticipated. Having said that we were once again lucky as we passed a car well alight, the driver still on the phone, and it was quite a distance up the M11 when we saw the fire engine heading down to the incident. It was on the M11 on our way down that we came across a car and caravan on the dual carriageway. The front of the car was badly damaged having hit a barrier and the caravan had bits strewn over the road along with womens shoes and other debris. On both occasions if the Police had got there first they would have shut the road and we could have been in for a long wait.

SATURDAY 5th

Despite Joaquin saying it would rain and be windy it is a wonderful morning with clear skies and no wind. We were in need of another long walk so set off along the beach to the ‘Melia Americanos Hotel’ where we left the beach to walk through the cliff top golf course. Having got so far on the buggy road a cart pulled up and we were advised to take the cliff edge as it was dangerous on this road due to the golfers, and we thought this was the safest route!. So crossing close to the 18^th hole, and passing a stone feature, we had to watch our step due to the very sharp rocky surface, a lot of it covered by a red/green succulent. At one point we disturbed a small flock of birds and wished John had been with us to identify them, but no doubt he would tell us later. (They were kildeers).

Back on the beach we stopped for cocktails at the beach bar watching the younger people play volleyball before moving on to walk on the beach the other side of our hotel. This beach is not so good but the water is shallower so it is ideal for children. There were a lot of local people down on this beach today. It was also a great place for beach aerobics with lots of people joining in before they moved into the sea. It was a hunky instructor that could get so many women off their sunbeds, in fact when we reached the group there was three instructors! There was also a couple of nicky nacky noo sellers with their stall set over a bicycle.

Another cocktail before lunch when we were joined by Tony, who had hoped to go to the nature reserve with John and Dorothy, but they had cried off. Along with 6 others John and Dorothy are staying an extra week so have plenty of time to explore. Whilst Keith and Tony ordered a sandwich for their lunch I went over to the cake stand returning with a large slice of coconut tart and a croissant smothered in chocolate sauce. Joaquin surprised us with a large plate of chips and black olives so I was well sorted.

Keith and I returned to our sunbeds by the Paella restaurant for the afternoon. Tony came along and I pointed out one of the humming bird’s favourite spots. No sooner said it flew down to the cactus and Tony was able to capture a wonderful picture – I did not!

Tonight we had are farewell dinner in the Trinidad Restaurant, an open air seafood restaurant. The lobster meal served at our end of the table was a bit disappointing as the lobster refused to come out of its shell due to being over grilled. Mary Jane said a few words like how good we had been and it had been a holidiay for her and was almost in tears. Bob responded, having written down his speech as he said he was sure he was showing the first signs of having Alzheimers! We ended the meal with a champagne toast to Mary Jane and another rendition of ‘Viva La Revolution’.

Some of us returned to the cafe, some went off to the theatre where ‘Songs from the Musicals’ was being performed tonight, and others went to bed.

FRIDAY 4th

13 of our group have gone on a 3 hour tour costing 9CUCs, a new tour introducted by ‘Cubanan Tours’ the National Tour Company of Cuba who Humberto works for. Enrique on the other hand works for the bus company ‘Transtur’ driving Chinese built coaches. (Today China is one of Cuba’s biggest supporters.)Snippets of information given to by Humberto during the tour include details about the exportation of sugar cane which has dwindled considerably and production been so poor that the Government Official in charge was dismissed. We have seen lorries flash past us on many occasions as the sugar cane is transported to the factories before it begins to ferment when it is then only fit for making rum! We have noted that none one has really spoken about their outings or the visit to the Tropicana night club when we have not been present. The only tour that seems to crop up in conversations was our walk in Vinales valley and the visit to the tobacco farm.

This morning we went for an early stroll around the hotel grounds and found the garden area where the mint for our mojitos is grown. The gardener collecting coconuts was very welcoming but only spoke Spanish. We didn’t see the proteas or the humming birds that Diane spoke about yesterday so I took a photo of the lovely flower arrangement in the cafe arranged with flowers from the gardens.

The weather is really lovely so we settled down by the Paella restaurant foregoing our morning vitamins as we shall be sampling the sangria at lunchtime. We have got sunbeds by a small rockery and the ‘dog lizards’ are running all over it before disappearing down some of the holes. I even caught a glimpse of a long thin black snake as it too disappeared into the rocks. At last a humming bird made an appearance to take the sap from the flowers of a coral coloured cactus before disappearing into the large green bush behind us and blending in with the greenery.

11.30 the entertainments team attempted to get us off our sunbeds and into the pool for aqua aerobics. There was only three takers and I felt the water was too cold for my liking!

Lunchtime arrived and Mary Jane joined us for paella after she had gone to check on the group who should have returned at 1pm. I said they would be late back as they were still waiting to be picked up at nearly 10.30 when we went walkabout. They eventually came back saying it wasn’t a very good tour which only covered about 2km, when some thought they would be going down to the end of the peninsula. 45 minutes in a market was far too long as well and Mary Jane was right - Varadero wasn’t very good.

Back to my sunbed and I was still a little concerned about the ripe coconuts above my head and what had happened to the snake. I carefully checked my canvas bag to make sure it had not taken up residence in there along with my books, etc. By 4pm I was getting very thirsty from the salty paella so we adjourned to the cafe for a mojito where we were joined by some of our group before we returned to our room. I suggested we meet a little earlier tonight as the cafe so busy last night. Unfortunately we were late down as we got interested in a Rolling Stones concert on TV but we managed to secure two tables by the entrance with Mary Jane following shortly after us so she saved another. She too had been watching the concert. A solitary lady was sitting at the 4^th table but I went to chat to her warning during our conversation that it wouldn’t be long before our SAGA group met and we were all crazy. She soon finished her drink and left – I wonder what I said to her? It was John’s birthday and when we were all gathered we say 'Happy Birthday' to him and Mary Jane presented him with a card and a couple of gifts informing him the large parcel contained a bottle of blue pills. Lost for words and totally surprised he began opening the smaller parcel which was a trick camera made out of coke tin and when operated a fluffy face sprang out of the lens compartment. (Like me he is a keep photographer.) I think he was a little disappointed to find the bottle was rum and not Viagra!

Those eating in the steak restaurant left and the rest of us eventually wandered over to the buffet restaurant to once again sit at a long table. John and Esme were missing as they had booked to eat in the seafood restaurant but joined us later in the cafe. There are other bars in the hotel but these are generally crowded with other guests and we find the staff in the cafe much friendlier.

THURSDAY 3rd

Although there are no more early starts we are awake early Keith having a disturbed night with someone whistling, a couple shouting at 4.30 and above us pacing about wearing hard soled shoes.

After breakfast we decided to take a long walk but trying to find our way out of the complex was easier said than done. We followed a couple who seemed to know where they were going but didn’t as they came to end of the track. At last it lead us to the ‘shaving brush tree’ so I was able to take a photo of its lovely flowers although most of the blossom was laid on the ground around it. The hedgerows sounded full of birds but it was the Cuban blackbird that we saw the most. We returned to our hotel and took the road to our right which took us through the security gate and past the bus stop for the tour bus that operates in the area. For 5 CUCs we can use this bus for a day getting on and off whenever we wish and depending on which side of the road you board the bus we would either end up in Varadero or travel about 20km down the peninsula. We found our way to the coastal road with the 18 hole golf course on our left and began to walk along the wide grass verge and there was no footpaths. We came across a family stood by a bus stop and told them we had seen the open top tour bus about 15 minutes ago and it was full with people standing inside. They would hang around a little longer and then take a taxi. We had a small map of all the hotels on the coast and thought we had walked a considerable distance. We had hardly gone anywhere. Arriving at a gate to another Sol hotel we asked if we could walk back to the ‘Melia’ pointing to our may. The guard kindly pointed us in the right direction. This Sol hotel consisted of small bungalows set over a wide nicely landscaped area containing several flowering mango trees, but apart from a Chinese Restaurant and a Massage Parlour there was nothing else. We were very surprised to find we were soon back at our hotel and before heading to the beach went into the cafe for our vitamins. We were surprised to see so many of our group already in there. They had been on the nature walk which I had seen the sign for last night and completely forgot about. They all said it was a lovely stroll with one of the gardeners being their leader so they learnt about many of the plants and the birds. At this point the friendly Cuban blackbird put in an appearance behind them eventually flying on to one of the basket weave chairs for a photo shoot.

As we headed for a walk along the beach we heard a voice shouting “Keith, Keith!” Looking around we spotted Mary Jane leaning out of the office window (massage hut) with a dishy masseur stood behind her. She wanted us to sign Pharmacist John’s birthday card but hadn’t got it with her and could we lend her 3 pesos to tip the masseur? “Damn I’ve lost the bet” I said, which made her laugh and she went along with me “What bet?” demanded Keith “Well I bet Mary Jane she wouldn’t get any money out of you and you’ve just given her 3 pesos!” We eventually convinced him it was a joke.

I took a paddle as we walked along but the sea was cold although a lot of people had taken to the water. Further out small sailboats and pedaloes were going up and down what I thought was a small reef but in the afternoon Marion told us it was seaweed and there were very few fish about so the snorkelling is very poor. A pelican flew low over our heads and landed clumsily in the sea to be followed by a couple of seagulls who were much more graceful at diving into the water similar in style to the gannets of Bempton cliffs.

It was feeling very hot by now and so we returned to have a light lunch before settling down by the pool for the rest of the afternoon.

Cocktail time was chaotic and unlike last night the cafe was busy. We had black looks from a miserable couple sitting at a table for 2 who eventually moved after the 25 of us had gathered in this particular area of the cafe. We were well looked after by Jaoquin, our aged waiter. Keith has got the system sussed by passing 1 peso over to the waiter who will then look after us for the rest of the evening. We have noticed that guests who fail to tip the waiter are generally ignored.

The group split up tonight with half of us going to the steak restaurant with Mary Jane. (Tables in the steak and seafood restaurants have to be booked first thing in a morning at a table set by the hotel shop.) Unfortunately we could not have a table for the whole of our group or a table set for 13 people so we let the singles, along with Ian and Christine, have the large table whilst Keith and I sat at a table for 4 with John and Esme at the next table so we could all still have a conversation. Mary Jane informed us the Chef recommended the beef tenderloin but I settled for a beef brochette so I could sample a chinchinchere (or whatever it was called) sauce comprising finely chopped pepper, onion, garlic, oregano and other things that after several mojitos and red wine followed by more mojitos I can’t recall!

Back in the cafe the entertainment team dressed as 'Pirates' paraded through trying to drum up business for tonights theatre show. With a distinct lack of enthusiasm especially on their part I don't think we shall be joining in and when John and Dorothy left I said they would be back in 5 minutes - it was 6 actually! The show was nothing to do with pirates and they couldn't understand what was taking place other than two women were eating a cake on stage. For the next hour or so the men discussed their prostrate problems having us in stitches about just where the cameras were capable of being pushed as everyone present discussed their ailments. I felt quite left out but by the time we left was grateful for the current state of our health.

WEDNESDAY 2nd

Another fabulous morning and once again the rowers are out in the bay taking advantage of the calm sea. A lot of guests are departing today, some like us heading for Santa Clara a village set in the sugar cane fields, before we head north to the beach resort of Varadero. Santa Clara is also the resting place of Che Guevara so no doubt the day will be dedicated to him.

Humberto is not feeling very well today and we cheered him up by having a karaoke session at 9.30 in the morning, all of us completely out of tune. I went to put a bag of toiletries on Mary Jane’s seat and observed Enrique rocking with laughter. I warned everyone that he was having hysterics and doubted he would be able to drive if we continued singing. As Mary Jane boarded the coach she too lost it!

As we moved off Mary Jane taught us a new war cry 'Hasta La Victoria Siempre' a phrase we would come across later in the day.

Normality returned after our chant and we made our first stop by a railway line to visit an armoured car, a sort of museum place. Using several wagons that had allegedly been derailed along with a flat truck wagon holding a machine gun we were able to look at photographs and information concerning this event. The person responsible for the display had used his imagination by using concrete posts instead of rails and assembling them in the form of a modern sculpture to depict the blown up track. Personally I was more interested in the street life as I watched horses pulling carts of different shapes and sizes full of local people and classic cars passing by the colourful houses.

Next stop on a hillside on the outskirts of Santa Clara was Che's Mausoleum. It took Enrique a couple of turns around the roundabout before he remembered which turn off to take. We were not allowed to take any personal belongings with us and silence was asked for as we entered the vault where the remains of Che Guevara and his close fellow fighters were laid to rest. Beautifully presented with a wall of round plaques of their faces and names along with single orange gladioli stems hanging between the plaques and at the end of the room in front of an indoor garden an eternal flame.

Across the marble entrance was a museum again with signs in English so it made it more interesting for us. Cabinets held lots of his personal items including watch, pistol and Zenit camera. We saw black and white photos of his life in the Congo as well as Bolivia. We learnt his wife was still alive and living in Havana along with some of his surviving children, all now leading normal lives.
I retrieved my camera from the coach and returned to an area outside the Mausoleum where two bright red trees were in bloom. Among the crowd waiting to visit the shrine was Castro’s double which Mary Jane found very spooky.

Lunch stop was again in the countryside at a complex of small thatched rooms and a swimming pool currently being used by a family where the young children were have a whale of a time. As the dining room was busy we all adjourned to the bar, Mary Jane settling down on a sunbed whilst we let the men queue for our cocktails. Excellent Pina Coladas and Mojitos but before we could finish them Humberto called us in for lunch, still it saved ordering another drink with our meal. We got quite excited at seeing bananas on display for the first time despite the number of banana trees we have seen on our travels.

On the move again it was suggested we have a siesta as the countryside is a little boring. Christine had trouble reclining her seat so as I pressed the button for her she leant back. A lot of laughter as she shot backwards and her little legs flew into the air. (I couldn’t understand why she wouldn’t let me help her again.) So many laughs and inuendos again especially about our drinking habits I said we were becoming SAGA louts, a new phrase to everyone except Keith and I. Even Mary Jane had not heard it used before. The scenery was far from boring as we passed a camel bus and more horse drawn carriages, not to mention a sugar cane factory with steam pouring out of it at ground level, the middle and out of the huge chimney. What a pity we couldn’t make a stop to see it in operation. In one village it was really stepping back in time as most of the taxies were horses pulling black hooded carriages large enough to carry two people.

Time for another Pina Colada stop by the ‘great wall of Cuba’, but nothing like China just a low continuous orange/yellow rock wall going on for some distance. Absolutely amazing Monica was on the ball today stating in Santa Clara that there should be a Che cocktail and that it should pack a punch but only after a struggle. (I later looked in my book and there is a 'Rebel Daiqui'i the extra ingredient being Creme de Menthe to give it the olive green hue of the Cuban Armed Force’s uniform and was created in 1959.) We found this PP stop was the zoo - thought it looked familiar as we pulled into the parking area.

We arrived late afternoon in Varadero which Mary Jane said wasn’t worth visiting. This area isn’t really Cuba but looks nice all the same. Reaching the 'Melia' hotel we all said our farewells to Humberto and Enrique and when it was my turn Humberto hugged me tightly and whispered “Jesus, Jesus, Jesus, Jesus” in my ear. My response was “Once more for luck!” It was nice he remembered the incident in Los Terrazas. They have been such a good team and is hopeful Mary Jane they will all work together very soon, like the next trip leaving Gatwick on the 13th.

We have 4 nights at the ‘Melia Varadero’ all inclusive and hadn’t expected it to be a big as it is. Our room is 3201 with a view to the back and if I lean over the balcony I can see the outdoor games area and the open air theatre with the sea in the distance. The hotel is built in a circle with 7 wings leading off the centre and designed so there are no adjacent rooms however noises do echo around the corridors.

Cocktails in the cafe bar at 6.30pm. 7pm we wandered to the dining room where once again Mary Jane had arranged for us to sit at one large table. (I don’t know how she does it – I do really it’s her charming manner, especially with the men!) Seating was awkward when Ellen came along with only one seat available in the centre so Ken, her husband, went to the empty seat at the end of the table. We offered to shuffle up a place so she could join him but said “No, Ken doesn’t like a fuss!” The setting was lovely and the food delicious but we felt we could be in any large seaside hotel and feel we are no longer in Cuba. When we think of the limited amount of food available to the Cubans and here in front of us is asparagus soup, a good assortment of fresh fish and meats to be freshly cooked on a grill, and containers of braised meat and no end of variety of vegetables, not to mention the gorgeous desserts and fresh crepes soaked in orange liqueur, it makes me feel guilty. Our waiter was very attentive with the red wine thanks again to Mary Jane and before we left he gave her a flower made out of a white paper napkin which she tucked down the front of her dress. Keith asked if he could smell her flower. “At a price” but he was quick to respond with “I thought we were all inclusive!”

TUESDAY 1st FEBRUARY

7.30 alarm – 9am start for an 80km ride to Trinidad a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site so no doubt it will be very busy. Our journey took about 90 minutes travelling inland for a while passing a huge area of pink blossomed mango trees. In the distance we followed a mountain range with more turkey vultures filling the sky. The road Enrique took eventually brought us down to the Caribbean sea where again the surface was covered with white tops. Small holiday complexes had been built in the nicest coves with more building taking place but Humberto said it was too early in the season and the water was far too cold for local people to go swimming so we saw very few holidaymakers.

As usual Mary Jane gave a run down on the loos stating the best was in one of the houses where the lady would be sitting outside ‘with a saucer’ we replied before she could finish. “No, with a bucket!” Finally we reached the cobbled streets of Trinidad set in a hillside and once again traffic was not allowed in the centre so when Enrique had found a suitable stopping place we quickly left the coach. We were a short distance from a ‘Ration Shop’ and called in to take a look and also take photos. A couple of people were collecting some of their allowance, namely rice and fresh bread but again the shelves were very sparse, the staff doing their best to display certain tinned food.( Humberto had shown us his family’s old ration book with a list of items available to them throughout the year. He said each year the list gets shorter and this year rum and tobacco have been removed.)

We paid a visit to a lovely house that was once the home of a wealthy Sugar Cane Plantation owner, and was also the loo stop. (The lady had a bucket because there was no running water!) The ceilings were very high and very ornately decorated. In one room the boarder around the ceiling had a portrait of a man with very unruly curly hair cascading from what looked like an upturned gold goblet. Signs that the family had been Catholic were seen in a bedroom where on a cabinet beside an iron bed a religious statue stood with a rosary hanging from its arms. There was also a private Prayer Table with a statue of Christ on the crucifix along with a well padded kneeler. Keith had disappeared to climb the tower adjoining the house and had not returned when it was time to move so Mary Jane said she would wait for him and give him a good smack. “Please don’t do that as he might get to like it!”

As we walked up the steep cobble streets we were again pestered by the women to buy their necklaces now being offered at 4 for 1 peso when we refused to buy. Some of the group went to visit the large Church, which was open at a time suitable to the priest so one never quite knew when it would be open, and the rest of us followed Mary Jane to the ‘Troubardor’ bar passing several other bars en route some blasting out loud jazz music. The ‘Troubador’ as well as showing its patrons how the Salsa should be danced also produced a cocktail made of rum, lemon and honey and was, according to Mary Jane, good for a cold. Funny how many people suddenly decided they were showing signs of an oncoming cold! I stuck to a mojito, the drinks being delivered by a lovely young lady with large flowers in her hair. Keith said he hadn’t noticed the flowers as he hadn’t got past her fishnet tights! Whilst we had our drinks we were entertained with dancing to the music of a combo stood by a wooden wall plaque in the shape of a very large guitar, the male dancer wearing as much mascara as his female partner. However they were very good and soon had us joining in. Once again Ellen was been threatened with UTUBE. Mary Jane asked Keith to dance and he got off lightly as I didn’t know where the start button was on his camera.

Back on the streets Mary Jane and Humberto lead us to the Plaza Mayor Restaurant for lunch. Once again I observed all the female staff were wearing decorative black tights and I made our waitress laugh when I complimented her and the staff on them.

We were now left to wander on our own but had to back in the Plaza Mayor for 2.30pm. We escaped from the centre and ceased to be pestered and I took some lovely pictures of life in the old place.

4pm and 31C we were back at the ‘Hotel Jagua’ where down by the pool would be nice but most of the beds in the sun were already occupied so we took our balcony chairs out the back to sit in the sun. The wind was still blowing and every now and again I got up to retrieve Bob’s underwear that had blown off the chair which he was using as a drier.

6.30 cocktails and happy hour in ‘The Castle’ where Carmen was playing but as soon as the cameras came out she stopped playing and proceeded to try and sell her CD – I don’t think there were any takers. The sun had now set but there was a deep crimson glow along the horizon and the wind at last had disappeared making it a very pleasant evening. I managed to take a photo of the ‘three amigos’ before we returned to our hotel for dinner. Mary Jane had organised a long table for us as a sort of farewell dinner and the chef had some wonderful huge fish that he expertly filleted for us. No idea what the fish was but the meat was a very heavy texture and it tasted good which was the main thing.

There was no entertainment in the bar tonight even though I had earlier seen 3 of the guitarists in costume and assumed they would be playing once again. In one of the large rooms a local 15 year old girl was having her special coming of age party. This is an important time in her life and the parents are expected to give her the party of a lifetime, better than her wedding day, and so we watched the young guests arrive as we chatted to Tony and Angela.

MONDAY 31st

What a night – lovely comfy bed, deep sleep and phone calls at 1am, 4am and 6am when I left the phone off the hook. Ian (Architect) had 7 calls before they retired for the night and so unplugged their phone. We shall do that tonight. Reception apologised and said there had been a fault on the line.

It’s a beautiful day, the sea so calm there is a wonderful reflection on the surface. Having had breakfast we had time to spare before setting out for the morning’s adventure so a few of us wander across the road to the sea area in front of our hotel and where I noticed a couple of people fishing. I was in front and just about to step further into the road when there was an explosion from the back of the parked bus. I saw the person inside run quickly down the aisle and people in the street running in all directions. Smoke poured out of the back where the engine is located and once it had cleared we could see the powder presumably from the fire extinquisher underneath the bus. By now men were looking into the engine, including our driver Enrique so we may learn more about the incident later but I was personally more interested in getting my photo of the fishermen.

10am we set off for an hour's trip around the bay but not before we had our passports checked by an official, but he soon got bored and cleared off. Ellen and Mary Jane took up positions at the front of the boat to get in some sun bathing. I guess Mary Jane has seen the view more times than she has had good breakfasts! Keith joined them as he thought it a good place for filming as most of the boat was enclosed, well that's what he told me! As Bob pointed out it was not really a tourist boat but it served its purpose although I think most of us would have appreciated a breeze blowing through. Still with a calm sea and some nice landscape and plenty of pelicans diving into the water we were kept amused, especially by the ones that failed to land gracefully. (Someone kept insisting the cormorants were black swans.) Plus there was the cocktail bar so mojitos all round! The only person missing was Christine (Journalist) who doesn’t do small boats.

As we returned to the hotel jetty we noticed lots of small jellyfish just under the surface but we had already been advised not to swim in the sea but to use the pool.

Hotel Jagua

We had 10 minutes to powder our noses before setting off to do the city tour beginning at the 19^th Century 'Thomas Terry Theatre' where Mary Jane had told us to be discreet when using our cameras as we had to pay for the privilege of using them. Keith made his way up to the balconies and when I saw the ‘guard’ disappear I mimed for him to start shooting. When I saw she was returning I made my way out of the auditorium stopping to speak to her about the weather. She escorted me out but only to inform a colleague that I needed to pay for using my camera. I informed her I had no money and would have to get it from my husband but didn’t let on who was my husband and kept away from all the men!

We looked at the nicky nacky noo stands in the area and watched the wood carver at work. I took a liking to a wall plaque of a coffee pot and cups with wooden hooks allegedly constructed in different coloured woods that will make an ideal key holder so left the bargaining to Keith. The price was 5 CUCs – no bargaining.

We had time to explore the pedestrian area on our own and called in at the rather grand ‘Union’ hotel with a lovely swimming pool in the pleasant courtyard. Our small group had hoped to have a drink but the service was so slow we abandoned the idea and returned to our coach on time.

Everyone has been very good about being on time which has helped Humberto with his organisation of getting us from one venue to another. Today we were so good we arrived at the Yacht Club too early for lunch noting there was already 6 tour buses in the car park. Tables outside, bar inside, mojitos all round! We were having a lovely time watching the fish and admiring the few boats in the marina, some of which were flying foreign flags. One lady was doing a photo shoot with a teenager and a smaller child models whilst their Mum watched holding no end of plastic bags. They got into trouble when they crossed the rope barrier to take some shots by one of the yachts but with the woman using a small pocket size digital camera it hardly looked a professional shoot. We didn’t have long to wait to be called in to our tables. Again we had a a buffet lunch but some excellent choices such as the fried fish which Mary Jane had recommended earlier and we had most of the dining room to ourselves before the next tour bus arrived.

Whilst most of our group returned to the hotel in the coach a few of us lingered outside with another cocktail. We were allowed to walk so far out onto the jetty to our right and watched shoals of small fish swim around the jetty legs but the real entertainment was two pipe fish that appeared to be performing a mating ritual around each other. These fish are slightly different from the ones I have seen whilst snorkelling in Crete in that they have several pairs of fins each pair being a different colour – yellow, pink and bluey/grey and they seem to prefer to swim backwards before shooting off into the deeper water.

Arriving back at the hotel most people were lazing by the pool but with a free afternoon Keith and I set off to walk back into the city. It took us about 35 minutes to reach an area of nicky nacky noo stalls that had been set up in another part of the pedestrianised area. With chance to look in the shop windows we saw just how limited stocks were and the few items on display looked very unattractive. Walking by a large hall with a row of lilac curtained windows swung open into the pavement I saw this was the hairdressing salon where chairs lined three sides and several Cuban women were having their hair done using chairs close to the open windows. We returned to the Theatre area stopping at a bar for a mojito before returning to the hotel. A student came and sat with us and began chatting to us but we could see where the conversation was leading so kept quiet for a while when he then moved towards a group of locals sitting by the musicians. Once again we were pestered to put money in the hat for the players and although sitting under the bar’s verandha we still had pregnant women begging for 1 peso for their unborn child.

We walked back to our hotel in the late afternoon sun briefly stopping to watch a made wading up and down in waist high water catching prawns in his large net. We had time to shower and change before cocktails at 6.30 where Mary Jane had arranged a happy hour in the bar by the pool.

7pm time for dinner and the group sitting on the sofa by the entrance pushed their way in with our group confusing the Maitre D. Again the choice of food was excellent and Keith came back with a plate of sliced pork that he thought was turkey. Tonight’s entertainment in the lobby bar as a wonderful mixed ‘barber shop’ choir who had been invited to attend an International Competition to be held in Alicante, Spain, in July so were desperate for funds. As with the guitarists they seemed to do well with sales of their CD. (It has been a long time since I saw anyone using a tuning fork but the female conductor used it all the time.)

We were all dressed up tonight as most of us were going across the road to another hotel for a Salsa lesson. Because the choir performed encores we were late getting there and so our tables had been taken. The staff were brilliant though and brought out chairs for us as we ordered our drinks. The resident dance duo were performing – a bit wooden compared to our 'BBCs Strictly Dancing' programme – but they showed us how to Salsa. I gave up with my two left feet and got out the camera. Ellen didn’t like being told what to do and so did her own thing which was hilarious and Keith threatened he would put it on UTube! Angela, along with Ivor and Marion, had a great time and in true SAGA style Keith and I not forgetting Angela were the last to leave.

SUNDAY 30th

The sea looks wonderful and there is a lovely blue sky so it could be a great day. Cases out by 8am and as I zipped mine up I discovered one of the seams has split so this case isn’t going to last – our son said it wouldn’t!

We move on towards the south east today to Cienguegos approximately 256 kms from Havana, to explore an area that includes the resting place of Che Guevara so as our journey begins Mary Jane thinks we should have a change of chant from ‘expect the unexpected’ to a Spanish war cry namely :-

El gruppo unido jamas sera venido! (The united group will never be defeated)

This causes a lot of laughter especially from Humberto as we are now encouraged to shout it at various times throughout our stay.

We must have been travelling for some time before we hit the ‘Zoo’ for a Pina Colada stop. It was a large place with souvenir shops, bars and a restaurant plus accommodation and a swimming pool. Mary Jane informed us this was the only place in Cuba where gambling took place -- apparently an old man ran a roulette wheel where a guinea pig was used as the ‘ball’. So we stood at a large round table filled with a circle of little houses, each one having a number. In the centre was another house on a wheel into which the guinea pig was placed. After a couple of turns the house was removed and the guinea pig encouraged to run into one of the houses. Surprisingly it went to one of the vacant houses so the stall holder took our money and kept the prize of a bottle of rum!

Wandering around the grounds it was hardly a zoo but a collection of birds and animals synonymous to the region. Turkeys, chickens, and their chicks, were allowed to roam free along with a few bulls. In one cage we felt sorry for the little crocodile that had no water in its small pool, but aahed at the tree rats, one of which was eating its way through a pile of fresh leaves. Others oohed and aahed at the rabbits and the number of babies that lazed in the sunshine.

The temperature was now 29C and we were to take lunch in the open air restaurant where once again we were serenaded with Latin American music. The singer was also a great comedian and had us all laughing about famous people he personally knew in the UK. Camilla, David Cameroon (as he called him) had both invited him but he couldn’t go as he was also a friend of Gordon Brown. Asking if anyone came from Wales he ended his repertoire that he was the one who gave the composer the lyrics to the song ‘Green Green Grass of Home.’

Another excellent lunch and leaving the Finca we came to a large Engine Shed. As Enrique slowed down we asked for a photo stop, a few getting out of the coach to take a better look. The man inside the complex invited some of the men to take a closer look, Keith being one of them. The engines appeared to have come from different parts of the world and were undergoing massive renovation when most of them would be used to transport sugar cane from the fields to the factories. Keith was thrilled to have been able to go onboard one of the old engines.

Our journey was across flat land of sugar cane, citrus fruit and potatoes but there was plenty of bird life, egrets and vultures being easily observed. There was allegedly several animals but we only seemed to see horse drawn carts and bulls!

As we reached the Caribbean Sea we caught our first glimpse of the ‘Bay of Pigs’ famous for the unsuccessful attempt to overthrow Castro’s government, an event heralded as the first defeat of imperialism on Latin American soil. The bay actually got its name when Bucaneers used to trade in pigs but became greedy and so started the days of Pirating. The narrow roads in this region being nearly as bad as the roads in our area - full of pot holes!

We made a brief stop at a War Museum with an aeroplane and a couple of tanks standing in the gardens. In the two exhibition halls walls were covered with photos of scenes from the battle with America and in cabinets items of clothing and personal effects from some of those killed were displayed. It was nice to note that the information in the cabinets was also in English. Some of the others lingered in the Museum so Keith and I, along with Tony, went walkabout, the men stopping for a mojito whilst I had hoped to reach the sea. Despite walking quite briskly I could see time was not going to allow me to walk so far from our coach.

Back on the coach for the final leg of our journey to the ‘Hotel Jagua’ in Ciengfuegos, but unfortunately some distance from the city centre, although it was on the waterfront. Once again Mary Jane warned us of the sub standard of the hotel, doors and cupboards could be falling off, lights may or may not work and once again should we have a sink plug could she have it? She would also like us to sit together in the restaurant but that depended on who was in charge. If it was the man – no problem, but if it was the woman – no chance! She suggested we had cocktails at 6.30 on the jetty just past the swimming pool. Bring your own rum if you have any and coke and the plastic cup that we were currently having our welcome drink in! Oh and by the way there was no guarantee there would be water in the pool.

Room keys handed out we were in 208 which again was clean and comfortable. We had a lovely sunset tonight with a view of the unfinished and abandoned nuclear reactor on the horizon which the locals refer to as the ‘Mosque’. The cocktail party went really well but as 7pm approached we headed for the restaurant leaving Mary Jane in charge of the left over bottles of rum – we had drunk all the coke!

Already a big queue had formed in front of the glass doors but when they were opened everyone had to stand aside to let the SAGA group in first. Well done Mary Jane who joined us tonight at our table for 4! We hadn’t finished our meal or cocktails so she left us and a French couple living just outside Paris asked if they may sit at our table. We chatted whilst I finished my drink the lady asking if we had been the party by the jetty and stating that her group would never do anything like that unfortunately. I had already noted that they were not welcome to sit at the table set for 8 people.Their group are staying for 2 nights so perhaps we could dine together tomorrow they asked.

Mary Jane had told us about the 90 year old lady, Carmen ? who wears a turban and very heavy makeup, especially lipstick, whilst playing the piano and singing in a building across the road. We should really go and hear her so we did! Both she and the piano were totally out of tune and she hopes to sell her CD! However she loves men so be warned. We couldn't linger as she was entertaining guests in the dining room so made our way up the marble staircase before climbing the outside spiral staircase leading to the roof top bar still laughing at Carmen. It was a cold blustery wind and although some people were huddled in a few of the sheltered places we felt it was far too cold to stay.

Returning to our hotel lobby bar we were in time to take a seat to watch 6 guitarists of all ages perform some wonderful music, and would have happily paid good money to listen to a concert by them, but by 9pm they were on their way out of the hotel. As usual we stayed and chatted to John and Esme who are the youngest in our group and still have a few years to go before they retire.

SATURDAY 29th

What with noisy birds and people scraping furniture above us, not to mention suitcases being bumped down the staircase adjoining our room I was a bit miffed to be woken. Keith had also been woken so putting on the bedside light I was gobsmacked to see it was just after 8am. Suitcases out by 8.30 leave at 9.30! Thankfully we had packed most items last night.

Was this Diane's frog?

The restaurant was very busy as the French group was also leaving and other tourists were heading out for the day. Last night I had been asked by a Canadian lady travelling with her husband and very young son what SAGA stood for. “I don’t really know – but in our case its ‘Senior Adults Going Alcoholic’ but there is also the saying ‘Sex annually, generally August!’ Mary Jane heard me and said it was neither of those and that SAGA was a story. The Canadian lady had thought we were something to do with a Sacramento Gardening Association but then decided not - wrong accent! We said goodbye to the hotel staff and I took a photo of our chambermaids, Dora and May, much to their surprise.

Once we were on the coach Mary Jane thanked us for being so horizontal and informed us that the staff could not believe we were a SAGA group. 10am time for the first cocktail of the day but I declined my Pina Colada settling for a slurp of Keith’s. We had stopped at this spot on our way to Vinales and today we were in time to see the farmer bring a couple of his cattle down to the pond for a drink. We only had 15 minutes and a call to the loo took up time as once again queues had formed. It’s nice to see that the men are having to queue at some locations too. These toilets are quite nice with cerise bougainvillea placed on cistern and washbasin tops. Jill was getting peeved at having to part with money every time as the lady sitting by the entrance doled out the loo paper. The coach had remained on the main highway but we had no trouble crossing as there was hardly any traffic. A young boy and girl were stood close to the coach and said hello to us all. Mary Jane spoke to them and thanked them for not asking for money.

We were returning to Havana for one night and some of the route was by fields of sugar cane, most of which had been harvested. The sugar cane soon ferments so once it is cut it has to be transported very quickly therefore the sugar cane wagons seemed to be travelling much faster than other vehicles. We passed a couple of reservoirs where the water sparkled in the lovely sunshine and a couple of men were out in canoes.

Arriving in Havana we visited The Fortress occupied by Che Guevara at the start of the Revolution. Before passing through the drawbridge we did a quick stop at the cigar shop to see the World’s Longest cigar and the man who made it just happened to be lounging on the leather settee by the doorway. More kisses for Mary Jane! We bought a bottle of rum here rather than getting one from the supermarket – the price is the same all over Cuba. From the battlements where some cannons were still in position we get a great view of the waterfront. One of the cannons is still fired every day.

With time to kill as our rooms will not be ready at the ‘Occidental’ we went on to visit the Cultural Museum. Humberto reckoned the best part of the Museum was the courtyard with a statue of Columbus so once we had taken our photos Keith and I slipped away to have a mojito in Hemingway’s Ambos Hotel across the road. It was lovely and quiet in there today and we lounged on one of the large soft sofas whilst reading my book on Cocktails of Cuba. Some of our fellow travellers thought a book on Che was more appropriate but until this holiday I didn’t do cocktails! How I wish I could email my friend Sue and tell her I was having one nearly every hour not just one a day!

At the hotel we are still on the 4^th floor but in room 418 with a sea view and a double bed plus a lovely large settee as well as an easy chair. Once we had snacked in the bar on battered shrimp, ham on toast and a plate of chips washed down with a Ron Collins cocktail - they have no mint for our mojitos we went for a walk along the seafront.

The seafront area close to our hotel and the Panorama was very rough and occupied by black Cubans sitting on walls drinking their rum cocktails. Two young children ventured into the water staying by the rocky edge as there was no sand whilst Mum watched on. It was a case of dipping their toes and running out again shrieking with delight. We walked as far as the Aquarium which was busy with local families as it is a weekend before turning up towards a housing area. We saw a few shops and street stalls, one stall had a young lady selling floral arrangements using artificial flowers, pine cones and seed cases which I duly admired.

Back at the hotel we got in the lift with Bob, Mary Jane and a porter with his luggage trolley. Like most staff the porter greeted Mary Jane kissing her on both cheeks and informing us that “she was a very famous lady in their hotel!”

Towels in the shape of kissing swans have been delivered to our room and placed on our bed along with a note from the chambermaid. We were so looking forward to a soak in the bath but the plug was missing. Most of the group were going to the ‘Tropicana’ night club for a late show that included a bottle of rum between four people, coke and a sparkling wine and lasted about 2 hours. The cost 90CUCs.

Keith and I had decided to return to the old part of Havana to sample the night life and have a meal out for a change. We ordered a taxi to take us as close to the old town as possible. The driver was very good and took us to an entrance by the Cruise ship terminal which is in the heart of Old Havana – how convenient is that? We were by St. Francis Church and our driver came with us to show us the way to Plaza Vieja where Mary Jane had said there was a restaurant with its own brewery.

At 7pm the restaurant was full inside and out so we went for a walkabout. What were people queuing for in one narrow street – A Chocolate Museum – how did we miss that! Managing to glimpse through the windows we saw men at work pounding a huge mound of chocolate. In another room people sat at tables drinking glasses of hot chocolate and through the front door the glass counter displayed a small amount of chocolates. We walked by plenty of restaurants most of them elegantly set out for dinner. We avoided the ones with their neat little tables set for two people in the cobble streets as it was far too cold to sit outside. We passed a nice one that had a large spit in the shape of a bull with the animal’s eyes shining bright blue and inside looked nice too, so when hunger was getting to us we returned to this restaurant. Most of the tables were reserved but we were able to sit at one close to the stage area. The waiter brought the menu and explained we could have a set three course meal including a drink and coffee for 20CUCs. I didn’t want the bean soup or the dessert as it was bound to be ice-cream so we chose from the a la carte. Keith ordered a seafood sword (chunks of lobster and large prawns on a skewer) whilst I had a chicken one. My starter was a mojito and Keith ordered a bowl of lobster bisque. Looking around I pointed out the display of nautical knots on a wall and then the penny dropped - this was the restaurant we came to last Monday with the group for lunch! How different it looked tonight .As we finished our meal a guitarist began to play classical Spanish music. We had come to eat too early as the reserved tables were still unoccupied and when I went to the loo I noticed more musicians and flamenco dancers getting ready behind a wooden screen.

Walking around the streets again I was a little disappointed there was no outside entertainment. It seems it had all moved into the restaurants, but we could hear the music even if we couldn’t see the performance. In Plaza Vieja I noticed a banner hanging down the wall of a lovely yellow and white building and discovered it was a ‘Camera Obscura’ site – how did we miss that? Probably because there were too many people about during the day blocking our view. In a corner close to a Planetarium we stopped for a coffee in a delightful building. The only small table available was next to hessian sacks of coffee beans piled up against the wall. Next to the sacks was a roasting oven with a wide copper tube coming out the back going up to ceiling height to then running along the length of the wall behind the serving area. Browsing the menu I didn’t know there were so many ways to serve coffee but settled for an expresso containing a coffee liqueur. Keith had another mojito only the cafe’s version was made with Aged rum and coffee liqueur – so good he had another! It was no wonder the place was popular as the prices were very reasonable. Whilst parents sat at the tables outside the children ran safely around the square. There are several tin sculptures in the square set around the fountain, a bright red apple, a brightly coloured wrapped sweet and a snowman with twiggy arms which seems to be the most popular model with the youngsters.

We returned to our hotel where the men were again entertaining the guests. The waitress was having great trouble trying to control her laughter when a couple of ladies got up to dance. The one in black had to pull her skirt down but couldn’t pull it down too far as it was strapless and she was already falling out of the top! The size and body of the lady wearing a red dress was the main problem and Keith was a bit naughty at filming her but she spotted him and duly posed not realising he was using a video camera!