CHINA 2010 Week 19-23rd JULY

MONDAY 19th
Three stops on the ‘Rapid Bus’ and a short walk will hopefully take us to ‘Jinbang Gardens’ a green area I have recently spotted whilst travelling on the bus. ‘Jinbang Gardens’ has been created to the memory of ‘Chen an’ a prodigy writing poetry at 10 but failing the Imperial Exam 18 times and finally giving up when he was 60. At that age he chose to spend the rest of his life on Jinbang Mountain living as a hermit.

Entering the part what I thought was going to be a nice gentle stroll turned into mountain climbing up and down steps, passing through narrow gaps in the large rocks and at times having to crouch down to get by. “All good fun” we kept saying and “just think how many pounds we will have lost in perspiration” as we climbed higher getting a good view of the city’s skyline. When we came to a junction of more steps we had decided enough was enough and would take the route that we hoped would lead us back down. Under the welcome shad of a small shelter we stopped to have a drink of water before continuing down to arrive at a roadway.

For once I was ahead of Keith and again making a choice of left or right I chose right only to see what was under the road bridge. To the left was the Railway Station to our right was the end of the line where several electric engines were lined up over pits.

We decided we would explore the other side of the bridge as the landscaped area immediately in front of us looked so inviting. More steps and more rocks which from a distance almost look man made because they are so smooth but I can assure you they are all original. Again many of them have had inscriptions carved into the surface.

Our wanderings brought us to yet another Temple. Stood at the bottom of the steps leading up to the Temple were two stone elephants with bright red ribbons around their necks. Unusual as it is common to see lions. Climbing the steps we met a couple of men sitting on them. They were from Taiwan now working in Xiamen, having moved on from Shanghi. Continuing up the steps we came to the lions again wearing bright red ribbons. Because of the newness of the ribbons we had decided this Temple could not have been open very long. Keith was wearing shorts and would not visit inside the Temple but neither of us would see inside as work was still in progress.
Instead of retracing our steps through the woodland we chose the easy option of following the road and in a few minutes we were back at the bridge. Over the bridge we took a few steps up back into Jinbang Park to see parts we missed such as the pond with the stepping stones and a waterfall dropping into the water beside a small shelter where two men were fast asleep. Then we came to another pool with a cascade by a small bridge, and finally another waterfall at the lower level where an area was set aside for refreshments. We sat and had a drink whilst listening to one of the childrens’ individual rides churn out nursery rhymes some of which we recognised. They brought back childhood memories for me as in between the tunes the English alphabet was recited ending with “now you know your ABC you can sing along with me”.


TUESDAY 20th
I went into the city to see if ‘Walmart’ had anything to offer that I couldn’t get nearer to home. Well a pair of green sandals and a large floor duster which is 50 yuan cheaper than in Trust Mart was about the only items. I didn’t like the layout and there just seemed to be a slightly unpleasant smell which I thought was from the fresh food section and when I first smelt it I was nowhere near there. I won’t bother again.

I also wanted to buy another copy of ‘Xiaman Magic’ the guide book that we have found so useful. It was the last English copy on display in this particular underground bookstore. I had a look at some of the fashions but with the temperature still hanging around 35C its too much trouble to try things on.

We ate out this evening after going for a late stroll. Keith was tired due to (a) lack of sleep from the road works that have started over again outside our apartment which takes place after 10.30 just when we are thinking about retiring for the night. They are resurfacing the road again although we have no idea what was wrong with the work they carried out in the last couple of weeks, and (b) it was a full day at work. We had one particular restaurant in mind to try but passing a place with a lovely selection of fresh fish chose to give it a try. Great especially if you like loads of chillies in your food. One of the three dishes we selected was mutton. We were grateful the menu had pictures and an English translation only on reading some of the notes under the pictures we don’t quite know what the translation had in mind. A dish of green ingredients cut into triangles after cooking was called ‘grandmother fried’ and a noodle dishs was called ‘ants climbing the mountain’. I should have asked for the menu again and taken some photos. Next time!


WEDNESDAY 21st
We went round the corner for a light lunch of fried squid and chicken pieces washed down with a couple of bottles of beer, eaten in the same restaurant that we were taken to with Helen and Mander during our first weekend in Xiamen.

Still feeling weary due to another sleepless night due to the road works Keith suggested we take a trip on the Rapid Bus on either 1 or 2 line. I went for number 2 line as it has the most stops terminating in Tongan. “Whichever bus comes first” said Keith. It was a number 3 and we know that route. I won as the next one was number 2. It was just before 2pm so there was not so many people travelling which made it pleasant although the air conditioning on these buses is very efficient. We travelled on the familiar route until we came to the junction and felt quite excited to be going into unknown territory. Our journey took us over the water and I thought we were going to Jimei but that must be line 1 as we took a right at another junction and continued along the coastal route. Keith was following on the map and said it would not belong before we reached the end. I looked at the indicator board and said there were many more stations to go and hadn’t we already realised the map is a little out of date. The tide was out leaving a large area of exposed sea bed where a few men appeared to be foraging for something in the sea bed. Perhaps it is the seaworms that we have eaten in jellyfish, a delicacy served in the more expensive restaurants of Xiamen. A few fishing boats were tied up in a small harbour alongside some larger ones which would go nowhere as a low stone bridge had been built over the narrow section into this small haven. This vast area looks as though it is reclaimed land. We rode for over an hour passing areas of demolition, new build (many of the large buildings and apartments empty) and foundation stage. We even saw rice paddies and small areas of ponds and crops. With so much new build it was nice to see the roof tops of some of the old buildings as we got closer to the centre of Tongan where most of the passengers alighted. We stayed on to the bitter end but wished we hadn’t. So back into the terminus and get the next bus out. Should or shouldn’t we take a walk around at the next stop. But with time getting on we knew if we did that the buses would be getting very busy after 4pm so decided to stay put until we reached the terminus in Xiaman.

We were pleased we did that as again we found ourselves in unfamiliar territory and yet we knew the terminus was not very far from our apartment. Walking down one street and looking up we saw ‘Cosco’s’ building (the Company Keith worked for in Dalian) and at street level another Temple with a very colourful roof. We didn’t venture in but when I looked through the gateway I saw a very unusual stone incense burner with a Pekinese lion dog either side representing the handles and the support legs of the burner were unusual carved monsters.


THURSDAY 22nd
A fairly lazy day, apart from the usual housework and washing, as Keith had arranged for me to talk to his students this afternoon.

Questions were asked such as ‘Did I like China?’ ‘What do I think about China’s 1 child policy?’ and ‘What did I think about all the Chinese goods that are available throughout the World?’ I told them about my passion for photography and said my camera had been made in China, my love of flowers and finally travelling. I had forgotten to put my watch on and as most of you know when I start talking I don’t know when to shut up so I had to keep looking at Keith for him to indicate when I should say enough is enough.

After a short break Keith finished off the afternoon by talking about his involvement with the Combined Cadet Force at our local school and showed them a DVD he had made in March when a ‘Passing Out Parade’ was held for the new recruits. Some part of the film especially the practice session kept them amused. The object of the exercise really was to let them hear other English accents. They also got a glimpse of our local Mayor in full regalia and heard the sound of Scottish bagpipes for the first time. When asked if they liked the sound of the pipes they made no comment!

We went out to eat tonight and had hoped to try a place found on our return from the long bus journey, but first we would take a walk as we have had no exercise today. Sitting on the street outside a wine shop was a group of young people. In front of them was a pile of grey heavy duty plastic bag packages onto which they were sticking large labels. On the street corner a young man was creating ballon sculptures and across the road the villagers were selling bananas and peaches which have only just appeared in the markets. We finally arrived at the restaurant and with pictures outside we had thought it looked promising. We were warmly greeted by the young waitress and the one nominated to deal with us did very well with her English whilst the others stood giggling. Producing the menu it was written on a card in Chinese so we had to say sorry and leave. We passed several other places but they were more street eating establishments with low tables and stools. Looking at the dishes on the tables as we walked by saw everyone was having lots of noodles or rice. The food on display looks appetising and would be ideal if we wanted a takeway as we can just point to the cooked dishes of meat and vegetable. We came upon another place and could see pictures and plates of food on display covered in cling film. Shown to the table and given the menu we saw it was a ‘Western’ steakhouse. Still turning the pages we came to Chinese food and ordered a plate of duck and a set fish meal. The duck was disappointing and as we cleared the dish of thin bony slices a mound of bean curd was revealed in a rich soya sauce. Good job we like the bean curd as there was more of that than the duck. A tray arrived with an assortment of dishes including a nicely presented fish which was very tasty. The duck soup was also good. We wondered what the brown bits were on the display of pak choi – minced beef. (We had tried to order the sliced beef dish but there wasn’t any.) We gave the rice a miss and I tried the small deep bowl of egg custard. The meal was filling but we will not be returning even though our bill was only 69 yuan and that included 3 large beers. Close to home and almost hidden amongst the apartment blocks is a lovely looking restaurant with some wonderful carved screens and just looks so inviting – the drawback being it only serves vegetarian food and Keith wants more than just vegetables.

FRIDAY 23rd
We left home around 2pm and was I glad as all morning it had been banging and drilling. Apartment 2110, two doors away from us at the end of our small passage, is undergoing drastic alterations and Keith came home with his trousers covered in dust. He said you try coming up in the lift with two hand carts and several other people in the small lift capable of carrying 13 people. He told me when he left for work this morning there was a handcart and motorbike outside our door! At least they have covered the floor area from the apartment to the lift. 2110’s apartment door was open as we stepped into the corridor and I could see a partition had been knocked down but what really got me was the view. What a sight right over the strait between Xiamen and Gulangyu – how wonderful.

Anyway back to today’s plan which was to go one stop past the Railway Station where ‘Carrefour’ is located and there is also ‘Tesco’ in ‘Robinson’s Galleria’ across the road. ‘Tesco’ was open the ‘Galleria’ wasn’t. With ‘Tesco’ at home we gave that a miss. We were searching for casual shirts for Keith plus another smart one for work as he was informed that K.C. will be coming over from Taiwan for the final presentation by the students, and he wanted a shirt that would go with the tie he had been given after the opening ceremony. We walked around the circle of shops most of them empty or undergoing renovation. The timber being removed from one smelt terrible, I was glad to get past. Saw and nice little coffee bar and I mean little with just two tables outside and no room to move inside. The title was very appropriate ‘Jack’s Small Town’ but was located right next to some toilets. The fashion shops were mainly ladies casual wear however in our search we came across a super DVD and music shop so whilst Keith spent time with a helpful female assistant looking for some instrumental music I looked at the music DVDs and found 4 that we would like. We bought 3 of the 4 but with such a good variety I am sure we will pay the shop another visit.

We returned to the BRT (Bus Rapid Transit from now on abbreviated to BRT) to return to the Railway Station and have a look at the menswear in the underpass. Great success - but not at those prices despite all the sales taking place so more searching to be done. We did eventually find some cheaper ones so that is another job sorted.

It was really hot and sticky and we just wanted to get home hoping the workmen would finish early because it’s Friday but this is China and we think are asking too much. Once we were home I put on a ‘Bon Jovi live concert DVD’ and wound the sound up so we could not hear the banging. Keith sat on the balcony whilst I got on with the ironing but as I looked out I saw how black the sky had become. 5pm our lights went on but as before no rain came and the sky lightened up once more.