CHIANG MAI Day 24

FRIDAY 26th. We laid by the pool most of the morning and then went for a late lunch in Regina’s down by the river. The food was good and we regretted not eating there before. The plan was to take the song tao up to one of the waterfalls close to Doi Suphet (Doi meaning Mountain – a lesson from Kai) but with the heavy Friday afternoon traffic we changed plans and asked for the Arboretum close to the Zoo. When we finally reached our destination our driver thought we were going to the Fitness Park. They were the same place and we were a little disappointed as Nancy Chandler had said there was some nice walks and lovely flowers. To be fair there was a lot of new buildings and newly laid paths and a large toilet block was almost finished to replace the small old fashioned one alongside. We climbed up the embankment spotting a black squirrel on a tree trunk and some large birds which immediately flew off into the denser part. Below was large ponds of stagnant water and where we stood looked like the tipping ground for the gardeners.
Our afternoon was to have a highlight when we were told we could enter the University grounds where there was a large lake – a reservoir actually. The long drive up the campus past a large playing field that was full of different football and rugby teams practising in the late afternoon sunshine. In front of a colourful area of purple bougainvillea by the campus’ Sala Hall was a shrine dedicated to elephants. The whole shrine area was full of different sizes and colours of elephants and in the grassed area the hedge had been created in the shape of a line of elephants walking along each one holding on to the tail of the next by a trunk. The shrine was actually being used as a roundabout.
A keep fit enthusiast asked if we had seen the reservoir and we told him we were just making our way there. “It’s beautiful” he said and he was right. It had been constructed at the foot of the mountains with a walkway round most of it. With the fading light we didn’t walk too far before returning to the newly constructed road where a door less, bumper less and almost seat less tanker was parked up by the modern road laying machine. The wiring was also in a terrible state but I had to laugh as I noticed the driver had left the key in the ignition.
With several song taos parked close to the entrance was asked for one back to the market area. The price was 60 baht so we didn’t argue. We hadn’t gone far when we stopped to pick up a couple of English girls with young baby in a large pushchair and presumably the Thai father. The traffic was worse returning and we hadn’t moved far before another local girl boarded the taxi. It took us 45 minutes to reach our destination by which time my throat felt like sandpaper. The voice is fading fast so Keith is in heaven!
As we went for a late meal at the Antique House we spotted the white rabbit again as we haven’t seen it for a long time. Walking over the footbridge and down by the flower market we were surprised to see how quiet the roads were. There was hardly anyone in the restaurant but one of our favourite singers was performing songs in the style of Cat Stevens with a Labi Sifri voice. I am going to miss our musical accompaniments at home. Returning home a young homeless man had decided to sleep on the road rather than the uneven pavement only his was in the area were the song taos line up and the regular bus to Lampun. His clothes and body was so dirty we had trouble spotting him at first so hope the drivers pay more attention.

CHIANG MAI Day 23

THURSDAY 25th. I didn’t have a very good night and was glad to be up. As we ordered our breakfast Keith returned to our room for his tablets. He couldn’t find them so I went to take a look and returned empty handed. When Pepsi came with our order he asked if he had left them on the table yesterday but again a search found nothing. Normally if guests leave their tablets they are placed in a certain place in the kitchen area and there was nothing there.
Whilst I did a bit of washing Keith disappeared to the pharmacy hoping he would be able to buy some. He was gone a long time and during his absence Opas called to say he would take him to a large pharmacy. On his return he had been unsuccessful and had been told to visit a doctor in the local hospital. The assistant had written down 2 hospitals both about 20 minutes away, both charging but one would take about 2 hours to be seen whereas the other for a few extra baht he would be seen immediately. We chose the ‘Lanna Hospital’.
For the first time Keith negotiated a price with a song tao as the assistant had said the fare would be 40 baht. The driver wanted 150 for the two of us and accepted 100. The journey seemed to take for ever and at one point we went down the fish market which smelt dreadful.
We arrived at the hospital and registered and was then told to go to the ‘Internal Medicine Department’. We duly followed the directions and in no time we were stood in front of a very large nurse wearing a grey jacket who asked if we had registered and to sit down. No stand up and be weighed – 88 kilos “How tall” 6 feet – oh heck she wants it in metres. Now sit down and put your right arm through a machine that would take his blood pressure whilst out came a packet with a disposable thermometer. Did he have a fever – no, just a cold. Next put your left arm in the machine where the readout was worse than the first one – and he didn’t have a fever. Wait over there.
We sat in very comfy chairs watching the flat screen TV showing the Asian Games taking place in China. There were two consulting rooms in front of us and Keith was soon invited to enter the one marked Cardiac where a nurse kept guard on a partly opened sliding door. Discussions over and the Doctor prescribed similar tablets but at a much lower dosage so he will have to take 12 a day to have the same effect as the one he currently takes.
The next stop was the Cashier and Pharmacy which we would after following another nurse. Once he had paid 200 for the doctor, 50 for the nurse and 300 for his prescription and given a load of paperwork in return he moved on to the Pharmacy and handed over some of the paperwork. He returned to join me whilst waiting for his name to be called and then it was out into the hot sunshine where luckily a song tao was waiting but no sign of the driver. At a nearby stall the woman called his name several times as she thought he was sleeping. Ah he’s eating. No he wasn’t as I saw him emerge from the hospital. We were soon back at the footbridge and paid him the 100 baht fare without any negotiations.
We returned to the ‘Hinley’ Curry house for a late lunch and had a look around the garden and the exterior of the house built as I mentioned earlier by Anna’s son after meeting Uncle Jack’s son in law.
Next stop was the Kodak shop to get a group photo printed to send to Mike. Only 3 baht here for glossy printing, and at the Post Office I received a free envelope and only 3 baht postage. The last item on today’s agenda was some purple wrapping paper from a florist’s sundry shop. This cost 50 baht which I was happy with but Keith said I should have done some negotiating and then agreed £1 for 10 sheets wasn’t bad after all.
I took a siesta before going out to eat at the ‘Brasserie’. It was very quiet in the restaurant and everywhere else – no fireworks but a few lanterns were still being sent up into the clear night sky. We moved indoors to listen to Gap but the band playing on the waste ground next door did their best to drown him out. He apologised and said it was difficult to play with the competition but continued. As he finished his hour of entertainment the band stopped playing also! He came to say goodbye to us remembering we are due to go home and gave us an envelope containing a rainbow coloured plectrum with a few words of thanks written on the envelope. At 11pm the next band began their hour of entertainment but we remained in our seats as they were good but loud. When Keith finished his beer we walked home noticing this waste area by the river was now advertising – a bus bar and live music.

CHIANG MAI Day 22

WEDNESDAY 24th an early breakfast before setting out on another day’s adventure with ‘Sergeant Kai’ which will not be as energetic as the previous one as I have now got Keith’s blooming cold!
When Kai arrived just after 9am he suggested we pay a visit to the hot springs as it may help our colds. Sounds good but well forego a swim in the mineral baths. Before leaving the city Kai stopped to purchase a hand of small bananas that we would eat wrapped in a cheese slice which meant a stop at the ‘7-11’ supermarket to buy a packet of processed cheese slices – not one of our favourite foods but we have been told it is wonderful.
Out of the city we toured down lots of winding narrow roads coming to a Temple with a very ornate gateway in gold and yellow that had been decorated with paper umbrellas as part of the Lantern Festival Celebrations. A quick visit inside we met a monk who was originally from Kate Wat. The Temple was over 100 years old and he had been there with 6 other monks and 8 novices for 6 years now. At the back of the Temple where 3 dogs were kept in a large cage close to what appeared to be a bird less aviary we saw many items such as wooden elephants, small Buddha statues, vases, etc. arranged on a concrete shelf around a large bunyan tree, the lower branches of the tree being supported by thick props covered in gold and silver leaf. Each prop had names and dates written on being a record of all the donors of these items. The thing about the items was most were damaged but the owners had not wanted to throw them away so had given them to the Temple. We were also stood in an area where the ashes of the deceased had been scattered.
Back on the road we travelled through the lowland area of rice fields where we saw a mini combine harvester at work alongside a man using a small scythe in the next section of the field. Across the road a man was using a strimmer whilst again other workers were using scythes. The landscape was lovely with the yellow fields of ripe rice and then the hills and mountains behind and in this area the roadside was lined with flowering trees full of huge yellow flowers in the shape of a pagoda that looked magnificent against the blue sky.
We arrived at ‘Sankampaeng Hot Springs’ a little dismayed to see so many tour buses in the car park especially as Kai already knows we don’t like the tourist must do bits. We needn’t have worried as they were all local school children out for the day so once in the park it was a mass of purple, the colour of their school uniform. Most of them seemed to be 7 years old and talking to them our questions had to be in an order otherwise the answer to “How are you?” was “I am 7 years old”. Despite the numbers they were so well behaved and quiet and some of them enjoyed being in the photo that Kai took of Keith and I dangling our feet in the stream. We had sat down on a wooden plank secured to the side of the constructed stream and had been told this was a fairly warm part compared to the section further along where in the distance we could see a couple of geysers rising up into the air with steam below. Now I like a hot bath but the heat came as a bit of a shock although it didn’t seem to bother the children. After the photo shoot we splashed about eating our small banana in a now very soft slice of cheese. Kai was right - it was, or rather they were, delicious. Pity we cannot get these bananas in the UK. There were several stalls selling small baskets of hen or quail eggs and as we went to take a closer look at the geysers spotted a large notice board with cooking times for these eggs. By a large trough where the temperature was around 105 degrees people were waiting for their eggs to boil. What a great picnic. As we made our way back to the car we passed the children all lining up to collect a sheet of paper to work on a project to do with their visit. It was at this point I realised all the girls had page boy hairstyles – another of Thailand’s school rules for the younger children. We paid a stop at the few tourist stalls and showing an interest in oils and soaps began a conversation with an Indian or Bangladeshi lady who swears by the soaps. I particularly wanted the cleansing stone for my feet and heeded her warning about not using it too much on the rest of the body. As the items were 3 for 100 baht we bought the two varieties of soap and the stone. The stone is wonderful and not as rough as the pumice we have in the UK.
We had stopped to buy BBQ chicken wings from a street stall, Kai once again having fun with the local people. Normally one asks how much is one piece but today he asked “How many pieces for 1 baht?” causing the lady to walk over to the vehicle and ask him to repeat the question. We drove away with 3 lovely smelling ones neatly arranged in a cellophane bag and tied before being put into a small plastic carrier bag.
Again we returned to narrow roads Kia occasionally getting lost and apologising for having to turn around. We climbed up and up the narrow winding road even though he had been told it went nowhere. We went through a few of the 30 villages in the region as we climbed on top of the world following a small stream that turned into small waterfalls in places. We stopped at one old couple’s house where Kai had hoped to show us how they make the chewing tea. As I had sampled some of this on our last outing I was relieved to find the round concrete vats contained nothing more than plastic bags and other household items. Further up the road we went to watch a young man, his wife and a few other men construct a road down to the stream. A man from Bangkok was having a house built, the frame of which hung to the side of the hill but also required a long winding drive to reach the entrance. We were offered a 900 square metres piece of land with a house built on it for 15000 American dollars.
We came to another village and as we passed through saw a couple of small hand printed signs in English saying ‘Welcome to Shop’. Now who on earth is going to pass through here that understands written English, or spoken. Kai decided to stop and we headed down to the shop. I was lagging taking photos of the colourful plants, especially the orange trumpet tree when I heard a voice say “What the devil are you doing here!” Surely we couldn’t meet someone we knew up here. We didn’t know him he was just glad to meet another Englishman. An American on a motorbike had just left but we hadn’t seen him and we were informed that having lived up here for 5 months we were the second people he could speak to today. We learnt his name was Mike McCue and he hailed from Carlisle. I told him about the man from Carlisle who owns the ‘Guitarman’ bar in Chiang Mai so next time he visits he’ll look him up. Their hospitality was great as his girlfriend Lai, who had just broken her arm, prepared bowls of spicy noodles for us and made us a coffee to have with our chicken and sticky rice. The coffee wasn’t so great as it was a 3 in 1 mixture. We talked about all sorts of things, including ghosts as Mike explained that a lot of the land would have been used to bury family and locals had seen ghosts especially when a piece of land was fenced off. Kai told us of his experiences at having a spirit visit him regularly. He is unable to move and it feels like a heavy object is laid on top of him but when he begins a Buddhist chant the spirit leaves him and he can move freely again. The amazing thing is he knows when it is going to happen and he warns his wife. Mike showed us his wooden table and chair creations he had made to fill in the time whilst Lai’s father stood watching everything without saying a word but giving us a toothless grin. Mike also painted pictures of the local birds and told us about the eagles that are in the area. Kai told him about the tree behind their building that had numerous strands of green berries hanging down from the upper part of the trunk and that these berries were poisonous. After a photo shoot before we left we had another lesson on the fruit that had fallen onto the road from a tree in the garden opposite. This was not edible but if placed in water would begin to froth and is used when washing clothes hence the name ‘detergent plant’. About the size of the small plum we brought one back for young Ethan to experiment with.
We continued up the road stopping to take a walk in search of another waterfall but this walk took us through a research centre and the ground was very wet. When we came to an information board with admission charges written on it we turned around and returned to the car. I had no idea of the time but it must have been well into the afternoon and so we began our descent back down the mountain as the locals were right – the road went no-where but given time it will.
We stopped to have a look in the street market where again a few school children came up to say hello. Stalls selling meat had several large blue bottles on pieces of nice looking beef and pork despite the man sitting there waving a plastic bag on a stick over it. We looked at bags of fried food at a stall selling square pieces of ‘plastic’ coloured black and cream on one side and cream on the other. When these are placed in the ashes from the fire and covered they swell up to be quite thick and crispy. We also looked at the contents of the river contained in a banana leaf – big black beetles, the last stage of a dragonfly before it gets it’s wings and a woodlice type creature. These would be fried and eaten – but not by us! I bought a bag of 3 apples whilst Keith bought a few sticks of a root that was allegedly good for his sore throat. Kai bought a bottle of liquid Viagra, or so he says, and must take 2 tablespoons twice a day. He was keen to try it and we had a lot of laughter going home about this Viagra and in the end I bet he wouldn’t be able to get the top off!
Although we had been up the mountain, at one time travelling on a road between two higher mountains, we were only 90 minutes away from Chiang Mai using the main highway. We returned to Baan Orapin passing lots of handicraft factories. Earlier in the day Kai had asked if we had been to the woodcarvers and said we would go later. But these factories are geared up for the tourist trade so by the time we reached the area they were all closed.
With very little exercise today we walked over to the Night Bazaar to have our evening meal and people watch at the same time. It was lovely except for the song taos and tuk tuks that were taking a short cut through a not so populated part of the market.

CHIANG MAI Day 21

TUESDAY 23rd and Keith has now developed conjunctivitis so after breakfast it was another trip to the pharmacy. He avoided returning to Boots as I am sure the assistant thinks he is a hypochondriac and went to a very old fashioned store over the footbridge recommended by Opas.
Once again we spent most of the day by the pool. Lots of people have left and the others have gone out for the day. We spent some time talking to Opas mainly about this place and his plans for restoration on the building where we have breakfast. He thought the upstairs section would make a quiet reading area for guests. He also told us about a piece of land he has purchased south of Hua Hin where he hopes to construct another B & B business. It’s a long way from Chiang Mai. He told us he had designed our buildings himself being an Engineer and is a qualified Civil Engineer. Before we leave he us going to show us the old house that will be 100 years old in 2013.
Late afternoon we went for a walk down the back streets behind us ending up in the Night Market and having a late lunch at ‘Lenas’ a Chinese Seafood Restaurant where giant river prawns were swimming in large tanks with elephants circulating the water through their trunks. We had chopsticks for our chilli clams but used our fingers for the delicious BBQ prawns. We will definitely be back there before we leave. 2 elderly Thai ladies were at the next table having a wonderful banquet and at this time of the day it was good to see other people coming into eat. We guess it will be very busy in the evening but it is open until 1am.
We came home through parts of the Night Bazaar where stalls were beginning to set up for the evening. I spotted a sign saying ‘woodcarving, paintings, etc. leading down some stairs under a building so we went to take a look. At the bottom of the stairs was an artist currently painting a picture of a family group. On the walls was numerous portraits all in black and white but so well done I would swear they were photographs. Other artists were also at work producing similar pictures and one or two had done paintings of wildlife which were just as good but overall I preferred the first artist’s work.
We came home back over the bridge again once we had woven our way through the heavy traffic. There seemed to be a problem with the traffic lights and the traffic police were now arriving. As we looked over the bridge we saw remains of the weekend’s festivities and although the cleaners had been busy there was still a lot of clearing up to do. We couldn’t believe the emptiness of the stretch of grassland where all the youngsters have been congregating since our arrival, nor how clean it was. Like Opas we wished the narrow road was permanently closed or at least made into a one way system. He has been discussing the problem with the city council and asked for footpaths to be created to encourage more tourists into the area.
Back home on our balcony the geckos have begun to return, but as one small cream and green one felt the impact of Keith’s foot it became shocked and stunned and guess had a heart attack and died. It duly received the same ceremony as the one I trod on!

CHIANG MAI Day 20

MONDAY 22nd and the last day of the festival. We were once again the last into breakfast, not that it mattered as we planned to spend a lazy day by the pool as Keith is still feeling under the weather. We spoke to more newcomers from Australia who stayed by the pool whilst their room was ready. They had a 6 year old boy, Ethan who was keen to get in the water. Mum rolled up his long shorts but it wasn’t long before they were wet. Again we had an interesting conversation as the father said he was a Police Officer and told us about a recruitment drive Australia had had to encourage British Police to come out.( After 2 years they would be given a green card and if wanted could move on to pastures new.) This conversation came about due to the book I had just started written by Andy Shea, a London Policeman who now lives in Sydney.
Keith retired to our room for a siesta and I remained by the pool until around 4pm talking to another Aussie couple who have visited the region several times. She told us the UNESCO site up north is just beautiful and is about an hour’s flight from here or a couple of days by slow boat which I think I would rather do, subject to the condition of the boat!
We set out fairly early for us in fact it was still daylight to watch the ‘Grand Parade’ which began at 6pm and finished at midnight. I assumed the floats just went round and round the old city but discovered that it was just one parade! We went to eat first in the Antique House having something light as neither of us was particularly hungry even though we had skipped lunch.
By the time we got back on to the streets the crowds had gathered and already the procession had reached Narawat Bridge by the Governor’s House. We stayed on the corner as it seemed a good place to get a view of some wonderful floats. In between these magnificent creations Thai men and women paraded along some sections carrying lamps, others carrying lovely krathongs. Just as the displays passed us they would stop for a photo shoot. This was not a problem for the official photographer as vehicles carrying mounted floodlights were just ahead of the float. Some of the floats were so illuminated that vehicles carrying huge generators followed and men would be holding up the thick cable leading to the float. We were a couple of rows back and an Englishmen slightly in front to my left kept leaning forward to talk to his Thai friend who was a lot smaller than him. In the end after goodness knows how many photos of the back of his head I asked if he wouldn’t mind not leaning forward so much! It was all taken in good humour and when the opportunity arose for us to move nearer to the front I informed him that ‘the pain in the arse was moving!’ We continued watching the show and having friendly banter until almost 10pm by which time Keith was ready to return home, the medication having worn off. We said goodbye to them as we were now stood alongside, another foreign couple having decided earlier that they had seen enough and couldn’t stand the crowds any longer.
Returning over Narawat Bridge it was mayhem with people letting off fireworks and not looking to see who was behind them especially when throwing them over the bridge. Keith nearly had one in his eye and told the man to look behind before setting off any more. The main road had been closed along with our road so it was a delight to walk along the street and not have to keep close to the side so as to avoid the traffic. Everywhere was busy not only with selling more lanterns but also food. Our road had been declared alcohol free which was a good thing although we noticed that areas of waste land leading down to the river had suddenly been tidied up and were charging an entrance fee.

CHIANG MAI Day 18

SATURDAY 20th and after breakfast we headed down the road to find ‘Boots’ chemist to get some more medication for Keith, especially a jar of Vick!
Our first stop was at the Temple where again the boys were playing the gongs and drums whilst in the background a group of young girls beautifully dressed with orchids in their hair. I couldn’t help but smile at one of the girls who was wearing a large pair of bright pink false eyelashes which had obviously not been trimmed. By the lantern boat three older women, again in costume, were sat about to make more ornaments for the festival.
We found Boots after walking down several streets new to us and admiring one or two decorated gateways. Thankfully they had everything we needed and a very helpful assistant even recommended a very lose dosage decongestant so tonight Keith should have a really good sleep.
Today is the release of 10,000 lanterns and Opas has arranged for some of his guests to visit the site where this will take place. As it gets very crowded he has suggested we leave at 3.15 although the event doesn’t begin until 6pm. The journey took about 30 minutes and we were in one of the 4 taxis Opas had booked along with Sue and Phil from Bolton who had arrived yesterday, a day too early so had to stay in nearby accommodation for the night. They had travelled down from Chiang Rai and we got the impression Sue was not too enthralled with most of their stay. She also didn’t enjoy the ‘Golden Triangle’ tour either. As we approached the area the taxi drivers seemed to have taken a wrong turning so turning around to return down the narrow lane we then turned right along another lane. We were now running by a small canal and as we went further up the road we came to people setting up stalls selling food, mainly some lovely fat juicy sausages on a stick or a string of sausage balls. There was as expected lots of people selling lanterns and fireworks.
The taxis pulled into a large car parking area but only to drop us off and after a slight discussion it was agreed we should return at 7.30. The taxis would be waiting on the road somewhere on the other side of the canal. As we had stepped out of the taxi it began to rain and I told the driver that if it continued we would be back in 5 minutes! The rain lasted longer but there was plenty of shelter. (Kai had said it would rain during the festival.) This was a large place in fact a Buddhist Learning Centre in the Sansai district of Chiang Mai. Several guests were very smartly dressed, especially the women, but I saw some people dressed in ‘Siam silk’ style trousers and again thought of Anna and the King of Siam. We came across some of the other guests from Baan Orapin who were lantern less. “What happened – did you leave them in the taxi?” On arriving they had been told they were not environmentally friendly so had left it between some bamboo. We checked with an official and ours was fine. The American doctor with the 3 young children had decided not to collect theirs as he was worried about it being a fire risk. Around a large building many stalls were dishing out food with long queues at most of them. Keith and I wandered over and I went to look in one of the large cooking pots that was full of chicken and vegetables in a clear broth. A man asked if I would like some but not being sure if it was spicy asked for a small bowl. He said it was not spicy as on a nearby table was an assortment of condiments so you could make the food as spicy as you liked. We took our bowls and spoons and went in search of somewhere to sit. The steps seemed a good idea and as we began to climb them a women signalled for us to join her on a ledge where she started a conversation with Keith. The food was very good lots of chicken drumsticks, mushrooms, noodles, beansprouts and a piece of boiled bamboo that tasted like potato and plenty of fresh coriander. Little did we know then that we would be very grateful to the Buddhists for this meal.
Next we took a look at the field with a covered stage housing a large gold Buddha whilst the field itself was full of lines of mounted lamps each one covered in a large piece of heavy duty polythene. (They must have known it was going to rain.) Down the centre was a ‘red carpet’ where when the ceremony began the chief abbot and senior monks would walk down to the stage area. We went to look at the small lake with a large lotus flower floating on the surface. Later in the evening people were invited to float their ‘kathongs’ (a floral tribute with a candle and incence) before leaving.
As it approached 5pm more people were arriving and we took our place by the edge of the field close to the gate by the small lake going 2 lamps in to avoid the tall bamboo close by. The proceedings were running late and throughout the waiting time announcements were made about turning off mobile phones, not to light the lanterns until the given time, not to light the lamps until the given time, and all the while more people arrived. Even though the programme was running about 30 minutes late people were still arriving. They were still arriving when the event began. We were now surrounded by young Thai people although we had been invited to move further in and take a seat but with so many people I felt we would be too crowded as already we were hot. There came a time when we had to sit lower than the Buddha and lower than the monks at which point I got cramp in my hip and Keith’s knees were hurting and the young people laughed quietly. After a long dedication to Buddha by the chief abbot words were spoken in English which caused Keith and I to look at each other and smile as at the beginning I had said “I hope this is not repeated in English!”We and even the young Thais began to feel we would never get round to the lantern ceremony but we did. A loud bang and clouds of smoke obliterated the view of the stage area and now young men and women dressed in green polo shirts were going around with candles helping people light their lamp. We asked a couple next to us if they would kindly help as it really took more than 2 people to light and release these large paper lanterns which had to be no more than 90cms in diameter. Before letting go at the appropriate time we had to make a wish but with the heat from the lamp and the heat from the lantern burner I forgot when the time came. It was a fantastic sight as allegedly 10,000 lanterns floated up into the night sky with a backdrop of the full moon. Some lanterns got stuck in the trees and we thought they would catch fire, one lantern hadn’t been opened properly and caught fire falling back down into the crowd but no-one seemed to get injured. Lanterns that had been released outside the Centre had floated across all the time we were there but every now and then a burnt out one would float down and land amongst us with one almost landing on the stage. We waited or the lanterns to be simultaneously left free 3 times before heading out with the hoards of other people. Keith and I joined the ‘snake’ of young girls who had been lighting the lamps as they left and taught them the conga which caused a lot of laughter and noise amongst them. On the narrow road we went with the flow moving at a shuffle or a standstill for over an hour. Finally we hit the rickety bridge to the other side where we now had to avoid the leaving traffic. The first taxi we encountered was the Doctor who invited us to get in theirs stating our taxi was a long way back. We thought about it but declined as Sue and Phil would be waiting for us. Next we met the other 2 taxis who were stopped in the traffic. Finally we reached 191 with no sign of anyone other than our driver. We had seen Sue and Phil were sitting on seats to close to us and assumed they had either got in front or where just behind us. A young girl asked if this was our taxi and could she have a lift with us as her mobile phone battery was flat and she couldn‘t telephone to be collected. We had no problem but our driver gave me a black look. We waited and waited until nearly 10.30 when our driver rang Opas – we were to wait. About 5 minutes later Opas rang to say to come home. Meanwhile I had been chatting to the young lady and discovered not only was she a friend of the family at ‘Baan Orapin’ she was still in high school. No way was she making her own way back to Chiang Mai! By new the traffic and people had thinned out so we were able to move quickly down the road until we reached the bridge area where everything had come to a stop due to a traffic accident. Turning around we had to stop to ask a policeman for the way back to the main road. Traffic was still busy and we passed lots of pickup trucks full of people in the back. It was well after 11 when we got back and Opas and his family were waiting for us. Oil lamps had been added around the gardens but we didn’t fully appreciate the beauty of them until his young son came to put them out as we entered our room.

Day 19

SUNDAY 21st and as Keith had had a good night’s sleep thanks to Vick and the other medication we were ready to venture out and see the mornings activities. Hot air balloons and a handicraft competition using natural products for young children were taking place at the Municipality Offices by the Ping River.
At breakfast we caught up with Sue and Phil who apologised for not finding the taxi and told us of their adventure getting home. Meeting a Canadian they managed to get a ride supposedly into Chiang Mai but he stopped about 5 km short of the city. They then got into a song tao who made it as far as one of the gateways into the old part of the city where again traffic was at a standstill and so had to walk the rest of the way home. That was when Opas rang our driver.
We walked to the bridge and then down to the riverside to get a great view of the numerous balloons in all shapes and sizes that were being sent up with the aid of several polystyrene planes that eventually released confetti, or small parachutes, and had colourful smoke trails in red, blue and yellow. As the planes came to earth the children would run to collect them as trophies. Those that landed in the water were also retrieved where ever possible. One or two heavy weight children got stuck in the mud but managing to get themselves out without any help, not leaving until they pulled their flip flops out as well! We moved back over the bridge to the grounds of the Municipality Offices to watch the children at work – the competition lasting from 9am to 5pm. Sitting in groups, some with young lads helping, they were creating a krathong using a slice of banana tree, covering it with banana leaf and then decorating it with plaited plant material and flowers, just like we saw the other afternoon by the super highway. The ballooning was supposed to run from 9am to midday but went on much longer. Some brilliant designs such as Mickey Mouse and a panda, whilst one or two were more traditional shapes. One balloon didn’t make it and landed on the electric cables running along the front of the Offices as the head exploded before it had reach any height. We had now gone to sit on chairs under a shade but as Keith leaned back to take some video of one rising balloon the back gave way and he fell on the floor backwards scraping his elbow. A lady came along with a plaster but I had already produced one, along with a wet wipe, so he was soon sorted. That bit of video was quite good as he was still filming as he fell! He has decided he doesn’t like being 65 as he’s having too many minor accidents.
We walked further into the old part of the city and being close to ‘Thai Thai’ went for a light snack. A Dutch couple were having a cooking class making a spicy mackerel salad containing finely sliced lemongrass, shallot, mint, coriander, fresh lime juice, vinegar, soya sauce and sugar. We have been invited to cook our own meal but declined as we are running out of time and there is still so much we want to do.
By now it was very hot so headed back home so Keith could have a siesta ready for tonight and I could catch up on the diary.
We had table 39 reserved at the Brasserie for the evening. At 7pm people were queuing for tables but knowing where our table was we walked by and down to the area by the river. Noy, our waiter saw us and pointed down to the lower level. We looked slightly confused and so he escorted us down the steps leading to the bamboo platform that we have watched being constructed. On this part of the landing 4 tables and benches had been set out. We knew we were going to be by the river we did not know we were going to be on it! Brilliant – we had a fantastic view of the night’s activities which was more lanterns, fireworks and a vast assortment of krathongs. We had been asked if we had one so Keith went out onto the street and purchased one for us to light. A small area large enough to set off lanterns and float the offerings had been extended at the end of the platform. Lots of people just came down to take photos. It was non stop with the cruise boats doing a roaring trade all night long. Small boats also went up and down and eventually the boat that is normally tied up to the restaurant’s waterfront returned. This caused a problem with the floating krathongs as they began to collect down the side of the boat. The boatman had seen this problem and returned to put a large stem of bamboo through the ropework securing the boat and the platform. We had taken time ordering our food at different stages as we knew it was going to be a long night. After eating a smart Thai looking lady asked if she may sit with us and we spent time talking to her about many things. She was part Chinese her father and his older brother being sent by boat from China to Thailand when he was 5 and 7 respectively. He will not talk about life in China but at 5 we all thought he would not remember much. She was married to a Dutch doctor and was visiting her parents for a few days. At midnight we said goodbye to her and went upstairs to listen to the music but it was so loud as it competed with the music from an open area next door so we finished our drinks in the front garden and returned home.

CHIANG MAI Day 17

FRIDAY 19th we listened to the sound of drums and cymbals coming from Wat Kate and when curiosity got the better of me we left the poolside to investigate. Several young boys dressed in blue were beating gongs with bright orange cloth in the shape of a ball wrapped around a piece of bamboo. Standing in front of a a three wheeled carriage an older boy was really giving the large and three smaller drums a good beating with everyone enjoying the rhythm of the music. The old man, who we had met in the Museum at the beginning of our stay, was their teacher and as the boys finished playing he encouraged a toddler to clash those cymbals! Before we left I notice more decorating had taken place especially around a display of Buddhas housed in a small shrine where lanterns had been hung from the roof and pots of colourful plants placed at each side.
Stepping out of the rear entrance we wandered along several back roads trying to avoid the heavy traffic where on passing another Temple a group of young monks called to us from an upper balcony of one of the buildings. No matter which raod we took they all eventually brought us back to a busy road leading to the ‘super highway.’ Just before the highway we stopped for a light lunch in a large restaurant leading down to the river. As we were the only customers we received plenty of attention from the large number of waitresses. We had hoped to walk along the riverside but again it was not to be. However looking up river I spotted several boats in the water and suggested that as we had walked this far we should go and investigate and hope we could get under the highway rather than over it.
As we reached the road going under the highway sirens began to wail and 3 emergency vehicles plus an ambulance passed us. We stepped off the road to take a track down to the riverside where lots of activity was taking place. People were setting up stalls where the area was marked off in sections, each section having a notice fastened to the flimsy red tape. By the river a newly constructed bamboo pontoon had been duly decorated with lanterns and along the river bank, at intervals for as far as we could see, small bottles of kerosene with a large cotton wick poking out of the screw top had been fastened to small bamboo poles. A couple of stages had also been erected, one very large and ornate on which stood a table displaying many colourful trophies. Meanwhile on the river itself boat races were taking place with teams of 5 oarsmen in long narrow boats. The pink team managed to swamp their boat and as we switched off our cameras, over turn it – loose seating and paddles floating everywhere. The pancake stall by the awnings where the boat crews and their supporters sat was doing a roaring trade and I was tempted to try one but the queue was too long.
We watched teams of florists working on large displays created out of woven banana leaves and flowers, even carved fruit being added into one display. Each team was again in its own compound and with the large circular displays it was difficult to take a good photo, especially with so many people working on the designs. I noticed that even a small group of young monks in their bright orange robes were sat weaving intricate patterns using more banana leaves. Staple guns and large headed pins kept the leaves in place and when a hammer was needed I noticed an empty beer bottle came in very handy. A couple of these designs had been placed on a platform on the back of a pickup. These lantern designs were huge and at each corner of the platform a couple of young men were creating a wonderful display using Thai orchids and white chrysanthemums.
Not many people spoke English but one man came over to ask politely what where doing and told us we should come back this evening when hundreds of balloons will be released into the sky and we can also try many different kinds of food including Lanna food. As we began to make our way back to the highway a tuk tuk was parked by the river, the driver working on preparing a stall for tonight. He asked if we wanted a ride and on agreeing a price a young woman and a small boy got out of the passenger seat to let us in. Another young man drove the taxi whilst the young boy sat on his knee and the woman occupied an empty space at their side. By now the traffic was heaving and we stopped several times, each time the young boy turned on the ignition, which was a small piece of wood rather than an actually key.
Returning home just after 4 we sat by the pool talking to two young girls who are cousins. They are leaving for Bangkok before flying back to Abu Dhabi tomorrow. The older girl is a kindergarten teacher there, whilst the other girl is visiting her. It was interesting to hear that she was in her second year of her first teaching post where she teaches English, maths and science to the Arab children and loves it.
More newcomers arrived and for a short while Opas came to sit with us. He was surprised to hear what we had got up to this afternoon, especially as there is no mention on the itinerary of anything happening at Faham Bridge. Perhaps it is because it is very narrow, even though it extends quite a way, it has been decided to keep it local. If this is the case we feel honoured we have been invited back tonight.
We didn’t return but went across to the Brasserie for a spicy meal hoping it will help Keith’s cold. It was very busy with large groups of people, 12 wanting to sit together at tables designed for 4. By moving inside they were accommodated. Some people have already set their lights down the river and a group of Americans let one go from the restaurant’s platform. All night long we heard the noise of fireworks and watched so many whilst eating. The standard has improved greatly but there is no thought given as to where to set them off. I was amazed someone set off several ‘fountains’ on one of the posts on the narrow footbridge. We had an early night but a sleepless one as Keith was having trouble breathing with his cold and I was just hot!

CHIANG MAI Day 16

THURSDAY 18th. Another very lazy morning by the pool and as everyone was out we were entertained by the family of squirrels dashing along the branches of the trees and leaping onto the roof of the dining area, sometimes misjudging the distance. I also saw my first humming bird in years with a bright yellow body and black wings.
An Australian couple arrived two hours late having travelled from Bangkok by train. They had paid for a first class cabin with beds for two and a sink but walking through the train only found second class which meant sharing with lots of other people. The train kept stopping for no apparent reason and the noise of screeching metal kept them awake for most of the night. The smell from the toilet was none too pleasant either. No food was included so they had to purchase ‘Pringles’ etc., and so now they were going to eat and then catch up on some sleep.
We came home to shower and change and head back into the city for a walk down to the Iron Bridge and along a road we hadn’t travelled along before. Down by the river there was a lot of activity with more tidying up and pontoon building. The stretch in front of the Christian Church had paper notices written in Thai fastened to sellotape stretching the length of the grassed area. Whether the area was temporarily sealed off whilst the men were constructing pontoons we have no idea but we have noticed it seems so much quieter down that stretch of the river the last couple of nights.
The transporting of goods in this city never fails to amaze me. Today a man was carrying the remains of a large banana tree in what would normally be the metal passenger carrier at the side of his scooter, the leaves of the tree almost trailing on the floor behind him. Down a narrow one way street men on scooters were towing large metal cages with wheels wobbling in all directions as they were pushed and dragged along toward the Night Bazaar whilst avoiding the oncoming traffic!
We stopped at 3pm for a late lunch at ‘fine dining’ in front of ‘Le Meridien’ hotel. The shape was similar to a bus shelter at home with a curved corrugated iron roof. Inside was clean with a lovely tiled floor and once we had sat down ignored the ants going to and fro along the top of the wall tiles at eye level! Keith has developed a slight chesty cough so a bowl of Thailand’s hot spicy shrimp soup should help. It certainly made him perspire as it contained large pieces of ginger lots of chillies and a few citronella leaves!
We picked up a leaflet for ‘All Terrain Vehicles’ which we thought might be fun as long as I can be the passenger! With so much happening over the next 4 days we cannot decide when to go. We have arranged to go out with Kai again on the 25th.
At home everyone seemed to be returning from a hectic day out. The American bird watchers had a lovely day at an Elephant Camp whilst the American family with three young children looked exhausted, the youngest being carried upstairs as she was fast asleep. Mum and the other two children came down to the pool again so they could let off steam. They were not as noisy as last night and not in the water so long either.
We took a long walk in the direction of the moat to view the illuminated floats before heading down the back streets to ‘Thai Thai’ for our evening meal. We passed some really nice places not only for eating but also for accommodation but we still rate our choice as the best decision.

CHIANG MAI Day 15

TUESDAY 17th As it’s getting hotter each day I decided we should take the trip to Wiang Kum Kam , the forgotten Royal City about 25 minutes south of Chiang Mai. There were several options by boat and then ox cart to the ruins, or boat and then tram or the option we chose which was to take a song tao and hire a bicycle and then follow the route at our leisure.
As we left Baan Orapin we saw a wedding was taking place in the Sikh Temple next door and lots of guests were arriving, the women being dressed in wonderful traditional clothes. So me being me followed them into the pink and white canopied area where longs tables had been placed for a buffet, the rest of the space being filled with tables and chairs. I asked the ladies if I may take a photo as they all looked so lovely – they were reluctant but encouraged three girls to pose for me for which I duly thanked them. Around the entrance to the Temple long garlands of orange flowers hung down from the walls as well as the two tall floral arrangements stood each side of the doorway. A large banner advertising ‘Amit and Tina’s Wedding’ hung over the wall where three small round arrangements had been placed.
Over the footbridge a driver offered to transport us down to Wiang Kum Kam for 150 baht in his red song tao, which Keith thought was expensive but there is no bartering with the drivers of these vehicles. Pepsi had suggested that we take the blue bus to Lamphun, or perhaps a tuk tuk, but time was getting on and I didn’t want to hang around waiting for the local bus so we climbed into the back of the song tao. About 25 minutes later our driver said we had arrived. Seeing the old ox cart and a couple of pony and carriages I refused to move as I didn’t think we had reached the actual site. I was right and the driver got back in to take us a little further. We arrived at the ‘tourist centre’ for the ancient site with small stalls set around the car park area. A few bicycles were lined up by a building and one or two more were dotted between scooters. The girl behind the counter said we could take the pony and carriage or go by tram. No we wanted bicycles and could see the sign on the door Bicycles 20, Pony carriage 200, Tram 300! “You want 2 bicycles?!” Yes but there was much discussion between a young man who had now joined our group and at this point our song tao driver disappeared having been paid. The tyre was flat – pump it up. I lost interest and began to watch a load of giant orange ants carry a white larva up the Site Information Board. Keith looked at every bike and not one of them was roadworthy – most having no brakes or a bell. “We didn’t need a bell” I remarked, but Keith was adamant we had brakes. At this point I think he was prepared to return to Chiang Mai but we had come this far so we might as well take the pony. A girl on a scooter rolled up and before we set off she produced a camera and said “would we like a photo as a souvenir?” No, thank, you!
For an hour we travelled around some lovely quiet roads stopping at several places to look at the ruins of the Temples and reading a little of their history. Around 1600 the Burmese invaded and then the Ping River changed its course flooding most of the area. We noted it was as late as 2003 when excavations took place at one temple. The most impressive was Kuu Kham Temple or Chedilieum with a stupa containing 60 statues of Buddha, the same number of wives the King had. Once we returned to the centre we set off to walk back along the streets. The young man and woman chased after us asking where were we going. “To take a walk as we couldn’t hire a bicycle.” It was really nice and the people were very friendly towards us.

CHIANG MAI Day 14

TUESDAY 16th. Another hot morning so rather than sit by the pool we would go for an early walk done by the river. First I must send more postcards but as we couldn’t find Keith’s organiser with all the addresses in just bought one for our next door neighbours. A lovely man stuck my stamp on along with an air mail sticker as Keith got out his wallet to pay for it. I asked him about their New Year as we have seen a couple of Christmas Trees and ‘Happy New Year’ signs. This year is 2553 and as in other parts of the World the year will change on 31st December. (We had thought they may be the same as China.) I wrote the postcard but then we sat and sat as neither of us could remember our neighbours’ surname. We had mentioned about the city being so laid back I put that instead of their name! As soon as I put the card in the postbox I remembered it was Evans – how could I forget as they have lived next door to us for quite a number of years.
So we set off on our long walk following the river when we could and then moving inland a little until we reached the Military Barracks with a Monument and Park opposite. Lots of teenager school children were sitting in the shelters each group looking at a laptop where they were watching pop groups and imitating the dance routines. During the Festival there is a competition so we guess this is what they are practising for. Along this stretch of the river there were many sandbags piled quite high as we have already learnt the area is subject to flooding in the rainy season. There was a lovely canopied bridge across the river which we thought we would walk to and cross over. We came to the Antique House 2 and stopped for a welcome drink. A lovely setting and already people were eating as it approached mid day. We talked to a couple from Australia who were spending a few days here after a couple of weeks in Cambodia which they loved. They had been in Vietnam exactly the same time as us last year doing more or less the same trip as we did. I offered to take their photo by an old Suzuki motorbike that stood by the small stage where musicians performed of an evening. Returning to my bottle of coke I discovered this part of the table was crawling in spider ants. Luckily they hadn’t climbed up my glass! I asked for the table to be cleaned and they were duly swept onto the floor as I moved to another chair. The table was fantastic – built out of a dead tree trunk and supported on a frame of heavy carved wood with a large piece of glass on top but guess it would take some moving.
We walked as far as the ‘Holiday Inn’ finding no sign of the bridge which was a little disappointing. We had walked past the smart Gymkhana Club and Golf Course, and the Foreigners Cemetery with a statue of Queen Victoria somewhere in the grounds. We passed more schools and the Forestry Department but very few eating places. We also saw some bouti que hotels, one being the British Ambassador’s former resident which was a horrible looking building – large rectangle shaped blocks of white with long narrow wooden planks covering the walls and no windows. It might look better inside and it supposed to have fine dining at a price. We visited another Temple which was also the boat landing stage for Mae Ping River Cruises. I thought this one was unusual as most of the buildings had blue roofs and built in Thai style but one of the smaller buildings nearer the river was definitely Chinese style with ‘happy Buddha’ among several other statues. Along the opposite side of the temple was a burial ground with two lines of stone graves in ‘stupa’ style whilst on the wall was a neat row of carved frames with pictures of the deceased in the centre. Many of these were now faded and some of the wooden frames damaged. Several vehicles were parked in front, one of which was a large pale green Pontiac with a large silver aerial rising up at each corner of the back of the car. The next stop was a 140 year old Thai Teak House where we could look at the outside of the building. Behind it leading down to the river a group of men were constructing a bamboo jetty out into the river as the water level here had dropped drastically exposing a vast area of mud making it impossible to get close to the river for the festival lights to float down river.
We settled for a late light lunch at the ‘Antique House’ before taking a tuk tuk home. Keith negotiated a price whilst I waited for the traffic to ease before crossing the road to join him. 45 baht was agreed but on reach ‘Baan Orapin’ Keith gave him a 5 coin and 2 notes only to have the driver given him the 5 coin back. That must be a first.
We have more new guests as the large party from Shanghai have left today. They seemed a mixed bunch of young men and women with only one woman looking Chinese and we would have liked to have spoken with them but it was not to be.

CHIANG MAI Day 13

Monday 15th We felt it was about time we explored the streets behind ‘Wat Kate’ and the easiest way to reach them was to walk through the temple grounds. At this time of the morning it was quiet as the children were just about to escape lessons for lunch. The monks have been busy building a bamboo frame around the small gateway and inside we can see they have been busy constructing a boat for the Lantern Festival. At the moment it is full of fireworks so that explains the noise in the early evening and at daybreak as the gates are looking during the night. On the appropriate date of the festival a candle will be placed in the boat where it will float down river with hundreds of other such floats. Reaching the back of the temple we followed a very quiet road going in a circular route and passing one or two small eating places. At a large school we were surprised to see a goat on the lawn area and beyond several cattle and as we walked along we had to stand to one side to let a truck by which carried the most lovely looking smoky grey bullock heading for the school. It appeared to be a normal school in a largely Muslim area but we wondered if it was an agricultural college. Back home we returned to laze by the pool until it was time to leave for lunch and the tailors.
The young lady who owns ‘Thai Thai’ was so pleased with the photographs of her one year old but once baby had hold of them we thought she was going to screw them up even though they were in a small polythene bag. She wanted to kiss the picture as she recognised her Mum. When we were about to leave a retired American University Professor arrived just to say “hello” to baby. An interesting man who taught Psychology to art students at a University where rich parents paid 35,000 dollars a year for their spoilt brats to be educated! He now lived in Chiang Mai with a 50 year old Lanna Thai woman (proud of being referred to as Lanna than Thai) and now lectured around the world knowing much about Thai tribes and also about China and its people. We were now running late and would love to have talked more with him as he was very interesting and amusing.
Keith’s fitting was perfect despite his concerns at Jack saying his waist was 38 when being measured! A young couple followed us in and as David, the Manager, took 2 shirts and a pair of trousers off a hanger I naturally assumed they were for the man. So you can imagine my surprise when the woman went into the fitting room. Everything sorted and hands shaken we walked back home.
Before going to eat I wanted to visit the night bazaar in search of another pashmina. The crowds were no-where as bad as Sunday’s Walking Street but there was not much room to pass through the rows of stalls. Eventually I found a stall with a variety of scarves on sale and looked at one that was reversible and so began the battering. She began at 250 and would only go as low as 220. I began at 100 and would only go as high as 120 as there were plenty of other stalls selling similar items. Keith was very proud of me when she accepted 120. We walked on to a restaurant by part of the moat and regretted not taking our cameras as there were more illuminated floats in the water. Good food in ‘Pop in’ restaurant which was situated between ‘Pop in hire vehicles, Pop in coffee and Pop in tours. I was a little concerned as there seemed to be no-one inside but as soon as we were seated more diners arrived including a large party of Russians. Sitting behind me at a large table as in ‘we want to be together’ they wanted European food and each one wanted to know the cost. They even went so far as to share some of the drinks! Our waited spotted me having yet another hot flush and immediately brought another free standing fan close our our table for which I grateful but Keith was not! The older waiter was being very patient with the Russians but found time to inform us he was a tuk tuk driver by day and at 4pm until midnight he waited on tables in this restaurant. Not being one to miss a change he gave us a note with his name, telephone number and tuk tuk number before we left. As we had done so much walking today we thought we deserved a tuk tuk home.
Keith sat out on our balcony and after a while I went to bed. I heard him talking to Opas as he took a stroll around the grounds before he too retired for the night and asking where I was. He was surprised to find I had gone to bed so early.

Day 12

SUNDAY 14th and a late walk to the Sunday Market in Walking Street which was very crowded compared to our visit last week. We began at the statue of the 3 Kings and then went walkabout in a different direction heading towards another Temple where at the end of the line of stalls a very young girl dressed in traditional dress with her hair beautifully adorned with a spray of orchids was performing a traditional dance. We stayed a while to watch her and as he was collecting for a children’s charity made a donation. All around the market young people were showing placards of photos of the flooded regions in Thailand and asking for donations to help the children. We thought we saw a demonstration taking place but the group moved on as we approached them. We saw them much later in a different part of the market and they were advertising a craft market to be held during the Lantern Festival. We were getting hungry and the stalls had some lovely food on display but we chose to eat in a small Lanna restaurant that also had Loas and Vietnamese food. Today we were out of luck with our choice of Vietnamese food – they either didn’t have it or it too long to prepare – so it was chicken for us both in different styles accompanied by an egg salad. Back into the masses and then a voice said “hello”. We couldn’t believe that in all these people we should meet up with the American and his girlfriend who we had travelled by from the Temple with yesterday. They were looking for somewhere to eat and so we let them get ahead as we browsed some of the stalls. Keith found a musician’s stall with CD’s for sale and as we could listen to them bought what we hope will be good background music to his video. We did stop to by a couple of banana spring rolls dredged in icing sugar and given a choice of syrups we chose to have honey on it. It was delicious and I could have eaten more – I can do these at home!
Earlier we had set out to find a photo shop that would print a couple of photos for me. The first shop we tried sent us down the road to some place we weren’t sure of but the next place we came to no one seemed to be about so we walked out and headed into the Night Bazaar building where most of the shops and stalls were closed. A photographic studio was open and it advertised printing. So producing my stick with the 2 photos I wanted printing we followed a ‘lady boy’ into the shop. In the main room a woman was being made up for a photo shoot whilst in the studio itself another woman was just about finishing her session. She looked amazing dressed in traditional sarong and adorned with lots of gold jewellery around her hair, and especially her arms. She also wore emerald earings and a heavy necklace and matching ring. The young photographer saw to us and we sat and watched proceedings in the studio and him at work on the computer. Earlier clients again attired in traditional costumes were being ‘touched up’ that is grey hair darkened, wrinkles and double chins removed and any other facial blemishes. The results were very impressive and he did it so quickly. He told us he had studied photography at college and had been working at this studio for 2 years where he had learnt to use this particular editing programme. My pictures were of mother and baby from the small restaurant close to the tailors shop that Keith is using and came out lovely but the photographer thought the one year old was my grand daughter.

Day 11

SATURDAY 13th we realised that we only have this weekend free to visit Bhubing Royal Palace providing it’s open. Over breakfast Opas came to give us the itinerary for the forthcoming Lantern Festival and he went to check about opening hours for us. Today it was open until 4pm which was great as it gave us time to relax by the pool again. When we decided to leave Keith found he couldn’t get into the room safe and so once again we had to call on Opas. He came immediately but said we would have to wait 15 minutes and he could reset the combination. We chatted about a manner of things whilst waiting but chiefly if we thought of anything that would improve our accommodation. It’s perfect as far as we are concerned. We also discussed about getting to the Palace and his best solution was to take a red bus to the Zoo then take another to the Temple then another to the Palace as it would be cheaper than taking one all the way.
We found the bus quite easily with the help of the staff by the bridge as it seems they have a system and know where all the buses are and where they are going. The fare was negotiated to the Zoo and with just the two of us we set off Keith following the route on our map as usual. Some of the roads we recognised as we have walked them more than once but others were new to us. We arrived at the Zoo and paid our driver and before boarding another red bus managed to take a couple of photos of the outside of the place. Again we were directed to a red bus but was asked to sit on the bench as we needed 10 passengers before we set off. A small group of local people laughed when they heard we were going to the Palace and as a couple of young women turned up I asked where they were going – to Doi Suphet Temple but they had a cookery class booked for 3pm and began to wonder if they had time. Just when they were going to alter their plans a driver said for us all to get into the bus and off we went. Everyone got out at the temple and we remained seated. Now we were informed we had to wait for another 8 people before he would take us another 6km to the Palace or we could pay 100 baht each. Keith became a little annoyed at the driver as he had negotiated a fare to take us to the Palace. Without further ado he spoke to another bus driver, this time it was a green bus, who agreed to take us for 30 each so we paid the driver of the red bus the set amount to the Temple and boarded this bus. We hadn’t realised just how high we had travelled and the air felt much fresher but not cold. We paid our admission fee into the Palace grounds 50 for the foreigner, 20 for the local. We could have paid more and had an electric car but we prefer to walk.
A lot of the grounds were off limits but when the bamboo poles supporting vast coverings of polythene the gardens will be a picture. The Queen is noted for her love of roses and has one named after her but unfortunately it was not in bloom but everywhere were rose bushes. The orchids too were magnificent and some in unusual colours such as a chocolate brown one. We walked up many steps through the fern garden where a small stream trickled down the mountainside by the steps. We arrived at the reservoir which the Government have turned into a water feature with a large fountain and smaller ones set either side of it to celebrate all the work the Queen does for the people of Thailand. We had thought it looked like rain when we arrived at the garden but now the cloud was beginning to disperse and the sun was bright and hot. A quick stop for a soft drink before beginning a steep climb up the roadway to the chalets constructed of eucalyptus wood ordered by the Queen and used to house guests to the Palace when the Royal family are visiting from Bangkok which is usually from the end of November until February when the gardens are then closed to the public. Continuing to follow the road where several electric cars passed us, each driver giving us a broad smile as they passed, we came across more ferns, busy lizzies in all colours, azaleas, and several bushes of poinsettias which in the sun were attracting some large orange butterflies. There was also a clump of very thick stemmed bamboo which people where having their photo taken alongside. The road took us back to the entrance where we were lucky to get a bus to take us down to the temple in time for the sun to set.
Approximately 300 steps lead up to the temple in this National Park and then we have to pay 30 baht to get in! At certain points up the fairly narrow staircase young people were holding large cardboard boxes and asking for donations for the children. Keith was way ahead of me and when they kindly asked for a donation I said I would give one on the way down providing I made it to the top! As expected the temple was busy with tourists of all Nationalities and a lot of people were buying offerings to make to the many Buddhas in the temple. Bamboo scaffolding with gold drapes had been erected around the gold stupa and almost at the top a couple of workmen, including a monk, were repairing the gold leaf although Keith thought it would have been better to have started at the top and worked down . On various levels young children performed dances to the music performed by more young people was a delight to watch. From a lantern strewn balcony we looked down onto Chiang Mai trying to work out the old from the new. We hung around waiting for sunset but today it seemed to be taking for ever so to avoid the rush decided to leave early and head back home. We were lucky the bus we took was going down to the Zoo and then to the Old City. It was full and we chatted to an American man from Boston and a younger couple from the UK who was disappointed to be so far out of the city. People got off on route and we too alighted at the footbridge leaving the English couple and the American and his girlfriend to continue their journey. We had done well with the deal back and saved ourselves 20 baht.
We stopped off at a quaint coffee house close to home and I put the 20 baht towards a delicious piece of chocolate brownie which was washed down with a beaker of Oolong Green Tea which was very welcoming. As we sat in the garden the owners were busy tidying up the place and inspecting the area alongside the river. Several properties have been working on restructuring their area by the water – whether it’s for the Festival or just something they automatically do after the rainy season we don’t know but it’s a big improvement.
We returned to the Antique House to eat and settled for an early night at home but were surprised to find the gates wide open and Pepsi stood by them. “Are you counting us in?” we asked. No, waiting for new arrivals.

CHIANG MAI Day 10

THURSDAY 12th We were the last for breakfast which was not surprising.
This afternoon we returned to the Tailors to collect Keith’s shirts taking a tuk tuk rather than walk. The driver wanted 40 baht each but as usual Keith began his bargaining skills but as the driver stood his ground I suggested if it was 40 baht for one Keith should go on his own. Good idea but the driver then decided it was better to settle for 60. Jack, the tailor was out to lunch and so we thought it would be good to return to the small Thai place down the back street. They were pleased to see us and today the young lady had her 1 year old baby girl with her, such a sweet baby and so happy to wave to us and ‘give me five’.
We returned to the Tailors where Keith’s shirts were ready and fitted well. A delivery boy arrived with more jackets to add to the number of garments awaiting collection. Jack being the salesman he is suggested slacks for Keith and after thinking about it decided he would have a pair of cashmere ones. I resisted the temptation to have a dress made as I know how my weight fluctuates. Although I had cut down on visits to Temples we popped in to a couple as we set off to walk to ‘Bauk Hat Public Park’. It was a lot further than I thought but as it was new territory we didn’t feel it was too much of an effort. The park was very small but already lots of people were renting large bamboo mats to sit on the grass by the lake and feed the hundreds of pigeons and fish. At the back of the park one Westerner was feeding a cooked chicken to several cats and dogs which didn’t look like strays, especially the beautiful Labrador. Still if they’re getting fed regularly I guess they will look healthy.
We decided to try out the red song taos. These are small vehicles that are fitted out with side benches to carry passengers in the back with room for people to stand on the back holding on to the rail and if necessary can also carry people on top but it is usually large purchases that are placed there. Anyone can flag one of these song taos down, as they operate around the city in various colours, and ask the driver if he is going to your destination. If he says yes he tells you how much which is around 20 baht, if not you will have to find another. It is the driver who decides on his route so we had no problem when we flagged down an empty one to take us to the market area close to the footbridge. We made one stop to pick up a lady before he ended his journey at the market by the bridge. Good and surprisingly comfy so we will use them again as they are much cheaper than a tuk tuk.

CHIANG MAI Day 9

THURSDAY 11th. Boy did we ache this morning especially across our shoulders and back where we had leant against the metal support bar on the elephant seat. So, we were going to do nothing energetic today apart from spend the morning by the pool. I got round to writing postcards that I promised to send to our Chinese friends so took a walk to the post office by the river. We then went in search of a snack for lunch but the few stalls in this area had nothing really appetising apart from barbeque chicken and we had had that last night. Finally we settled to try one of the small eating places nearer home.
We walked into one opposite ‘Baan Orapin’ which was more like walking into a family kitchen. There were very few tables each one covered in a plastic cloth, the largest being occupied by the family where grandma was sitting with her wet short grey hair curled and held in place with broad silver hair clips as she watched TV. A young girl gave us the menu, written in Thai and English, but she was the only member who spoke English. We duly ordered sweet and sour prawns with a coke for me and as they didn’t sell beer Keith had a glass of water! (Second day this week he has missed his lunchtime beer.) Having made sure we didn’t require anything else she said goodbye. The food delivered the sauce ran to one end of the plate as the floor was so uneven but it tasted good which was the main thing and so cheap too.
We returned to the pool where Keith went for a swim. By now the water was cold and he wished he had gone in this morning. I browsed through Nancy Chandler’s book researching for a new restaurant to try and then studying the map to see how far away it was. We decided a Northern Thai restaurant close to ‘Tha Phae Gate’ could be good. As we neared the gate the lanterns where now illuminated, along with a large white kneeling elephant which was part of the advertising for the forthcoming Lantern Festival. The restaurant was open air and large so we sat fairly well back from the road to avoid the fumes and noise. A good choice of food but plastic tables and plates and full of tourists was not a place we wanted to linger in. When we left wewalked a couple of yards down the road and came to a lovely restaurant and so wished we had gone there. It wasn’t long before we came to the seedier side of Chiang Mai with bars crowded with young Thai girls encouraging men to come and have a drink and on seeing me walking a few paces behind Keith, their faces and attitude changing. We couldn’t get out of the area quick enough but not so quick I didn’t have time to look at one or two stalls where local hill tribe women, dressed in traditional costume with headdresses embellished with silver coins, were selling their products. Eventually we left the colourful, noisy area until we reached the main road close to the river. As we walked by ‘The Guitarman’ Bar the music sounded really good so we stopped to have one drink. We got chatting to the musicians that had, and were to be playing tonight, discovering the owner was British from Carlisle but spoke with a strong Liverpool accent that he acquired whilst spending several years living in the area. He was also a singer and guitarist and when the band got together did they play some great music. So it was well after 1am when we set off for home. Music was still being played at the bars near ‘Baan Orapin’ but it was now 1.30am. Guess we’re last home again.

CHIANG MAI DAY 8

WEDNESDAY 10th we needed an early alarm for an early breakfast and it seems everyone has an early breakfast as we had never seen so many other guests at the same time. 8.15am our driver and guide was waiting for us and after introducing himself Kai took us out for a day in ‘Doi Inthanon National Park’ south west of Chiang Mai.
Our first stop was at a small market where Kai wished to buy some food for the children as he suggested we have lunch at a ‘Karen hill tribe’ school which was fine by us. We toured round the stalls with him as he spoke to most of the sellers where he bought a couple of barbequed frogs which we were to have for lunch, although we didn’t know that. On returning to the 4x4 he noticed one of the back tyres was slight flat and as we would be off roading would like to get it fixed. It took 3 garages to find one that could deal with the problem and whilst he waited in a large smart, by Thai standards, garage with a low round table and round matching stools to take refreshments we chose to have a look around the immediate area – namely the fields. Kai joined us to see people at work in a very large rice field behind the garage where onions were being planted that would be ready for harvesting in 4 1/2 months as the rice crop for this year was finished. (Unlike the centre of Thailand there is only one rice harvest in the north.) This large field was owned by several farmers but was not a co-operative although they all helped each other but when their crops were sold the individual farmers kept the profits.
Our next stop was the elephant ride. There was nothing touristy about this place, although there were one or two foreigners looking at a baby elephant as we arrived. We were to have an hour’s ride on the mother and baby would accompany us. So stepping off a high wooden platform onto the elephant’s head and sitting on a double metal seat took some doing, and we didn’t have much time to wonder where to put our feet for comfort before we were off. Thankfully Kai had warned us about hanging onto the frame as we went down the steep tracks otherwise we would both have gone over the young driver’s head! We hadn’t got very far through the trees before mother refused to move as she had lost sight of baby who was 13 months old. Already into everything we had called him ‘Mishchief’ and now he was trying to eat the bamboo leaves and failing miserably. Once he had caught us up and gone ahead, after the mahout had grunted at it, we were on the move watching the route so we had time to bring our arms in as we got tight against the trees. Another stop as Mishchief began to throw dry soil over its back whilst mum kept making a lot of rude noises from behind – looked like she had a bit of tummy trouble as she failed to deposit round balls of dung – more like cow pats! At times the steep banks were so slippery Mishchief struggled to climb up but got there in the end with more encouragement from our mahout. As we approached the river Mischief got into trouble from the staff in the compound, as well as our Mahoot, as he uprooted a young sapling. On reaching the fast flowing river I wondered what would happen now – would we get showered as they both began to drink the water? We didn’t - they both behaved themselves as Mum kept a careful watch as she chose the best route to cross. Back at another platform it was just as difficult getting off as getting one but we survived although our legs, arms and back ached. We had had our photo taken as we set off which turned out well and was already in an elephant dung frame with ‘Mae Wang’ written on it so we bought it as a souvenir of another adventure in our lives. That was after we had paid 20 baht for a bunch of small green bananas as a treat for mum that she devoured before Keith was ready to film her so we bought another bunch but she wasn’t ready to eat those.
Time was getting on and we missed having lunch with the children who were playing on the lawn area in front of the school. There are 40 children being state educated here their ages ranging from 7 to 12 plus a kindergarten and all of the children were dressed in blue and white uniform. As we alighted from the car they all smiled and greeted us in Thai fashion with hands a prayer and a slight nod of the head. Armed with bags of food Kai lead us to the dining area where neat rows of high tables and benches filled most of the room with a large stage area behind where we sat. We were introduced to the three volunteer teachers who hope to become teachers themselves soon. After sampling some lovely food, not only that bought by Kai at various stalls on route and some provided by the school we climbed over the style between the school and the village to meet some of the Karen tribe. Under nearly all the stilted buildings was small black pigs or lovely faced cattle and all very clean. We visited the house of an elderly couple where the old lady with a beautiful complexion was sat on the floor weaving a long piece of white silk with bands of colourful colours at each end that will be made into a turban. The loom was very simple and attached to the wooden wall with a wide belt that was placed around the base of her spine. Different pieces of bamboo were inserted amongst the threads but it was a large wide polished piece of wood shaped to a point rather like a sword at one end that was used to tighten the thread once it had been pushed into place. The husband was smoking a very large joint which we put out shortly after our arrival. There was much chatter between him and Kai and as we left Kai told us “the old man says you are so big – what did you eat?” They laughed as they understand when I said he was my happy Buddha! Although the village looked very primitive signs of modernisation were evident with satellite dishes. Electricity has been installed in most of these hill villages but some are not happy about it. Having bought the dishes and TV’s they now have to work extra hours to pay for it.
We left the village travelling on a very uneven road which in the rainy season will be impassable. Whilst we would have liked to have gone bamboo rafting Kai thought the water too cold and had suggested a walk to a waterfall which is used to promote the Park but its location kept secret to most people. By now it was 3pm and for the next 2 hours we began our trek firstly through a small orange grove where under plastic tunnels chrysanthemums were growing. Continuing through the forest of various deciduous trees and magnolias common to the area we encountered steep sections where thankfully someone had put a few bamboo rails along the route to help us until we heard the thunder of the waterfall. What a sight as it poured down various levels. Kai had warned us that the bamboo bridge may be missing as on his last visit it had been washed away and we may have to walk across the river to reach the other side. Right! Thankfully the bridge has been newly constructed but we let Kai go first to try it out! We crossed over so many delicate looking bamboo bridges and walked the narrow tree trunks on this trip that eventually brought us out into the terraced rice fields where people were still at work. The rice had been hand cut and left in criss cross bundles to dry but in some areas women were beating it with a stick after it had been laid on large tarpaulin sheets. Small groups of men sat around and Kai suspected they were drinking the rice ‘moonshine’. As we walked down through these fields the sun began set as we reached the village it was almost dark. Whilst Kai hitched a lift on the back of a small motorcycle to bring the car back to us Keith settled down to have a beer at one of the small round marble tables by the river. I had a nosey around and found two stalls selling petrol out of large drums with glass indicators which one stall holder refilled for my benefit as I took a photo. It seemed none of the villagers spoke or understood English.
It was 8pm when we arrived back at ‘Baan Orapin’ after a really great day out. The only tourists we had met were a few at the elephants and a small group of Italians staying in the last village for a couple of days as part of their 4 month stay in Thailand - they don’t like the cold weather either!

CHIANG MAI Day 7

TUESDAY 9th and another lazy morning in the heat, by the pool. Over breakfast we spoke to Opas about when the Royal Palace Gardens are open as the three guide books have conflicting information. Not being sure himself he said he would give them a ring, meanwhile had we thought any more about out trip into the countryside. Yes we would very much like to do an elephant ride and a bamboo raft ride. So a phone call was made to Opas’ contact and it was agreed we will leave in the morning at 8.15 for a day of adventure.
About noon we set off to visit ‘Wat Pa Pao’ where a three day festival begins today. Rather than follow the moat as we did yesterday we chose to meander down the back streets where we found lots of small bars and eating places and lodging houses designed for back packers. As well as looking down so I don’t fall again and sideways at all the shops, gardens, etc it’s also a good idea to look up. Having just left an Elephant Temple we came round the corner by a snack bar and looking up the narrow lane at a new 3 storey building the last thing I expected to see was a large model of a kangaroo looking over the balcony – what the heck was that all about! More hidden temples were explored, including Chiang Mai’s oldest Temple, until we began to feel they were all looking the same. Only the white stupas were different with some having the top covered in gold and one or two built of brick or were extremely old. We are getting a little confused as to a stupa and a chedhi but before we leave Thailand I am sure someone, probably Opas, will tell us. We stopped for a late lunch in a small snack bar where I sampled sticky rice and mango in coconut milk. This was served warm, unlike the sample we had on the boat trip, and both were very good. I decided we, or rather I, could have this at home. Keith had a dish of large shrimp and mangetout in an oyster bean sauce and enjoyed every mouthful. Beer was cheap too. Back to more exploring and we came across a tailor’s shop with a lovely shirt in the window. A deal was done for two and Keith was duly measured up. We can collect them in two days.
We ate at the ‘Brasserie’ going early which was just as well as a large camera crew descended into the area by the river and took over 4 of the tables. Management were concerned we were not stopping to hear Gap play but we said we had an early start but would catch him another night.

CHIANG MAI Day 6

MONDAY 8th and we spent a lazy morning by the pool with newcomers before setting out to walk around the moat dividing the old part of the city from the new and began along the river and passing the American Embassy once again. Our route took us by so many Wats, many not marked on our map. There was only one where we couldn’t gain admittance and we think that was because some celebrations are taking place during the next three days so we will return tomorrow.
We stopped to admire work being done on a float by one section of the moat and met the man in charge. Each area builds a float ready for the Lantern Festival , and that includes a parade around the city with many lanterns in many shapes and forms. We saw samples of these along our route today especially a collection of elephants in all colours. These objects look so delicate I wonder if at the end of the Festival they too are set alight – we shall just have to wait and see. It’s nice seeing all the preparations taking place and we are getting used to the fireworks even though I noticed a line of tourists jump a mile as someone set off bangers behind a large hoarding.
Our walk was to finish at the large temple ‘Wat Phra Singh’ (nothing to do with the Singha Brewery although by the time we reached this temple we were ready for a beer!) We had walked by some interesting places such as the Malaria Centre but moved on quickly as we didn’t want any of that. We watched men moving very large ornate wooden crates on short legs in a lock up next to a few stalls displaying large funeral wreaths on stands and discovered the boxes were Chinese coffins and again we moved swiftly on.
We had hoped to stop at the Theakston bar on ‘Walking Street’ but it was closed. However a little further along found a large bar open with a trio of musicians having a much needed rehearsal. We only stayed for the one drink as we couldn’t stand the music. Arriving home we found our Aussie neighbour still lazing by the pool whilst keeping the white rabbit company, the rabbit having put in an appearance whilst we were talking to the new arrivals from Holland.
I have been informed that we have another gecko on our balcony so please could I watch where I am putting my feet! Keith is referring to a little incident I had on our second day here when we had returned home in the evening. Taking off my sandals to replace them with a pair of the disposable slippers provided by the establishment I began to walk across our highly waxed wooden floor thinking ooh that was a bit lumpy. Looking round I found I had trod on our baby gecko. Thankfully it was okay which really surprised me but then I had lost a lot of weight in China so guessed that helped. Keith came to see what I had done by which time the poor thing wasn’t moving. A little nudge of the foot didn’t bring any reactions and getting down for a closer look announced it had died! Getting a tissue he picked it up and chucked it in the garden stating that nature would take care of it! We walked over to the area by the flower market following the river downstream looking for a suitable restaurant. New deliveries of flowers were being transported from pickup trucks into the stalls all of the bundles of chrysanthemums wrapped in old newspaper whilst the head of the roses were covered in a thick net of white soft plastic. With the evening heat the smell from lilies perfumed the air – lovely. We came across the ‘Antique House’ which looked inviting and as we looked at the menu on the stand by the entrance heard the sound of local musicians coming from inside. It was busy but plenty of room and we were shown to a glass top table for two, the base being an old treadle sewing machine. The chair I was sitting on was very high and so only the tips of my toes reached the floor – I would have been better sitting in Keith’s place as his chair was much lower. The choice of food was excellent and as we ate our fishes, one fried the other steamed, we listened to the local music, then a lovely guitarist singer who sang all our favourite ballads and finally a man who was better at playing the guitar than singing but not bad really as he was beginning to improve as we left. More fireworks, and more lanterns, and young couples sitting on the footbridge seemed quite romantic.

CHIANG MAI 2010 Day 5

SUNDAY 7th we had a plan but during breakfast Opas came to talk to us and during our conversation he mentioned a Sunday flea market about a block away and showed us the exact location on a map. Across the road was the ‘Lanna Centre’ and as it was the first weekend in the month there would be music and dancing if we wished to visit. It was in the opposite direction to our original plan which was to visit more Wats, but they will be there another day.
Need I say it was another beautiful morning and getting hotter every day. We followed Opas’ instructions and headed to the traffic lights, turned right to the next set of lights and then a left where the road would be closed for the flea market. We could see the row of sun umbrellas long before we reached this junction. The first stall had an amazing display of antiques that included a couple of telephones dating back to wood and dials and made by Seimens. Keith was more interested in an old mounted telescope presented to someone in 194l by an East Indian Company and was also made in 1941 by Howes of London. The other stalls were less interesting but about half way along we heard shouting and running and as we arrived at a stall a man was on the ground amid car parts and about to get a good hiding! We didn’t hang around but most people had stopped what they were doing to watch, including a rugby team practising on the adjoining college campus field. At the end of the road I spotted a DVD stall and found several I thought we would like but Keith dwindled them down to 3 as it was cheaper to buy 3.
We were not sure where the ‘Lanna Centre’ was as it wasn’t marked on our map but Opas had said it was across the road. If he had said it was behind the tennis courts we would have found it but we took a right and walked along till we came to the end of the road and what I thought was another Temple. This turned out to be a very ornate crematorium. So back we went encountering a couple staying at our place who said the Centre was behind the tennis courts and there were a few craft stalls but we should visit whilst we are here. The entrance was where we had already asked a man if this was the way but he had pointed us further along the road. Down the rough track we came to the entrance and sure enough there was a collection of stalls where lots of youngsters were busy making figures out of clay or tapping away creating nail pictures of pieces of silver plate onto which a picture of an animal had been stuck. They just followed the outline using a very large nail and a small hammer. Some results were not very good but it kept them amused. In the larger area we watched older people creating traditional Thai lamps made out of wood and coloured paper. As far as I could make out the ‘Lanna Centre’ is for education of all ages judging by the few posters on display. We were just about to leave when we heard the sound of drums and the band appeared carrying gongs on large frames and arranged them by an open air building where sat inside were several people including the fattest monk I have seen alive. The drums began again, including one being played by a very small boy who looked no older than 4, whilst his father encouraged him as he played a grown up version alongside. Gongs were banged and finger cymbals were clashed as men and women began to dance. Keith moved around the site and I was joined by a young 13 year old from the north of Thailand. A fellow 15 year old student joined him and they set about practising their English. We were joined by another student who held a very professional TV camera and I learnt about their school and ‘Child Voice’, a community supported scheme which produces Child Voice newspaper, Child Voice TV and Child Voice Radio. The 13 year old said that as it was a community school he was expected to work in the community when he finished his education but he hoped to go to University. By now Keith had rejoined me and he asked the cameramen, as another one had come into the group, if they did their own editing – yes they did. He was very impressed. The students left us to go and eat while we watched the end of the show that included a Thai version of the Chinese Lion Dog only this costume represented a shaggy horned sheep. The little drummer did not like it going near him but despite shrinking back to his family he continued to drum without missing a beat. I noticed that when there was a short break he had carried his drum to his mother and baby brother sitting on the steps close by and was teaching the baby to hit the drum - a really lovely family scene. Before we left I wanted to purchase a small pot pig as a souvenir but the stall holder had packed them all away.
It was well after 1pm so we returned to the riverside guest house for a light lunch before returning home to leave the DVDs and change into something cooler before commencing part 2 of Opas’ suggestions for the day. Today the ‘Walking Street’ would be closed late afternoon for a market and there would be plenty of food and we could also visit the Temples. The ‘Walking Street’ was already being set up with stalls when we arrived and in one of the Temple grounds stalls selling some delicious food were doing a good trade and we spent the time looking at these rather than the Temple. I regretted eating and would have loved to sample mushroom and beaten egg cooked in a banana leaf made into a container and placed on the barbeque to set like an omelette, but there is always next week.
We made it to the old Temple constructed of wood despite so many distractions including the remains of part of the old city wall and gate where another market was taking place under a canopy of bright pink, yellow, green and blue Thai lamps with tails fluttering in the breeze. There was some very nice things on sale here in an area set between part of the moat surrounding the old part of the city and where young children were having a great time feeding the fish and the pigeons.
We returned to the ‘Walking Street’ where even more stalls had been set up, some encroaching into the road. We stopped for a beer at a small bar advertising Theakstons but had to make do with Singha. This was opposite a large house and just after 4pm a smart 4x4 drove up forcing the stall holders either side of the gateway to move their rails to allow it through once a young Thai girl had opened the gates. As she attempted to close them again one of the ‘fierce’ dogs escaped and as she shouted at it it cowered and with its tail between its legs went back into the grounds. So much for the sign on the gate saying ‘Beware of fierce dog!’ We took our time people watching and with light traffic still going along the road we were surprised that an old lady had placed her blind husband in the middle of the road and then a man carrying a large amplifier followed by an attractive blind girl also left her sitting in the road. She ate her snack and as she began to sing, which we couldn’t hear due to the music in the bar, a coconut drink vendor made her one of his drinks and gave it to her before moving on further down the road, which we thought was nice. We were also touched by three young monks in their bright orange robes that stopped to put a little money in her container. I thought they had nothing and yet gave to someone worse off than themselves.
We decided to take a tuk tuk to the footbridge but was surprised just how much of the area was closed off to traffic. Eventually we reached the end of the closed section which was by a bronze memorial to three Thai Kings. This area was also decorated in many lanterns and Keith spoke to one of the organisers who informed us that it is a special year in Chiang Mai for the Lantern Festival and a ceremony would be televised tonight. Celebrations will go on for many days culminating in the ‘Loy Krathong’ on the 19-22nd of this month. Meantime there would be celebrations every day from now on. As we reached the tuk tuks we showed one of the drivers where we wanted to go. 100 baht – no way so negotiations began. A colleague said 29 and I quickly replied “done -we will go with you!” which caused a lot of laughter. In the end we settled on 70 and as we reached the bridge the sun was just beginning to set.
We had a late meal in the Brasserie sitting close to the entertainment as most tables by the river were already occupied. We had hoped to stay late but only two guitarists turned up, Took, the main man, having stood in for Gap for the first part of the evening until he arrived but had now disappeared – as did we. No Grand Prix on TV either so Keith was not a happy bunny!