TIME TO LEAVE

SATURDAY 24th JANUARY 2009

They say all good things must come to an end.  However, it is still going to be an eventful day as last night Maria and Theo received a phone call from Auto Previli to say the farmers were going to block the main highway to Chania today and instead of leaving 'Creta Spirit' at 1.30pm as previously arranged we would now leave at noon.

We met Tony, our driver, at the Alianthos Hotel as then set off for the Airport.  We had lots of time as our flight to Athens wasn't until 16.10. 

The weather was lovely and the E75 road deserted.  Tony decided to go as far as possible on this 

main highway and then, when necessary turn off onto the old road to Chania, so at each junction we risked going on further.  It was only as we were getting nearer to the Souda intersection did I notice so many trailers parked outside various roadside buildings.  Surely they would not be so mean as to block the road at this major junction, but they did.  Suddenly we were at a police road block and although Keith had seen on the internet that if we produced our flight tickets they would let us through we decided to take the detour.  Along this highway several new juctions have been built especially those allowing access to some of the small beaches and thankfully a new juction had been built to our left.  Travelling along roads getting closer to the snow capped mountains I felt we were on another day out and not heading for home.  The road got narrower

and twistier and because of this traffic began to build up especially coming in the opposite direction.  The landscape was very barren - rocks and plants with sheep and goats who looked on disbelieveing the amount of traffic on what I guess would be such a quiet back road.  I had also had the foresight to pack our road atlas in my rucksack and this came in handy as Tony was also travelling on unfamiliar roads.  

Finally we found ourselves in the

streets on the outskirts of Chania and going past 'no entry' and 'no right turn' signs.  We obviously need to spend more time here in the winter months!  Then we all decided we were on familiar roads to the airport - but we weren't.  As I said we had lots of time and before long we were 3 kilometres from the airport. 

View of Chania taken from the car window whilst travelling down the mountain road 

Parking the car Tony came in for a coffee amazed at the empty check in area - such a difference from the summer.  We said our goodbyes and wished him good luck on his return to Plakias.

We had a long time to wait to check in but eventually signs of desks opening - not at the numbers displayed - and we were leaving with our boarding cards for both flights.  Upstairs the duty 

free shop was closed but again staff came along  and opened up, but with only a few passengers I wondered if the couple of sales they made warranted so many staff.  

Going out to the plane by bus Keith commented about the plane with propellors.  Yep that was ours.  It looked so old from the outside and even older inside but I think I got a good shot of the sunset from my window, and also as we came in to land of a small island with a cloud covering it like icing on a cake.  

Our luggage was booked through to Manchester so once we had negotiated the transfer route, which is very misleading at Athens airport, we went to eat.  Lots of choices in the eating area from Asian, Italian, Greek to McDonalds!  The Greek lamb and potatoes looked wonderful and later I wished I had gone for that instead of visiting the salad bar as our macaroni dish was a little bland. (I keep thinking I should try vegetarian sometime.)

The onward flight was not full either and we had a delay due to one of the cabin staff being taken ill and so a replacement steward was sent for.  I don't know what he did whilst on board but we never saw him carrying out any duties.  We only saw him because we were in the front rows.

We landed in Manchester on time and our luggage soon arrived.  Outside we were relieved to find there was no sign of the predicted snow.  We had to  ring our taxi driver who was surprised we were out so quickly.  He was just enjoying a cup of coffee down one of the back roads close to the airport. Just before midnight we arrived home and set about tackling the basket full of mail before giving in and going to bed at 4am Greek time!        

Off roading

THURSDAY  22^ND JANUARY

Yesterday we set out to revisit the Dam but about one and  a half kilometres through Kourtalioti Gorge we decided to go off road!  Ooops - the car spun 180 degrees on a greasy bend and the next we knew we were rolling down the small embankment to land upside down in the field. I knew we had a problem as we started to roll when Keith announced "Oh sh-t!" We got out with only a scratch to my thumb and a small nick on the back of Keith’s hand.  Luckily people were working in the olive grove next door and came to assist us as we had trouble opening the door, Keith having to kick my side whilst I was hanging upside down until he was free to help me.  A phone call to Theo and Maria, who in turn rang Kostas the boss of the hire company, and they were on their way to pick us up.  In the afternoon Kostas rang to say another car was ready for us so Keith took a walk into the village to collect a VW Polo which we will try and keep shiny side up and dirty side down for the next couple of days!

 So today we set off once more to visit the Dam.  We were supposed to have clear skies and bright sunshine, which we had once we were through the Gorge.  At the Dam the wind was blowing and so we didn’t hang around for too long to take an updated view of the flooded area.  The Church roof is now missing.

We continued to the village of Apostili.  We didn’t stop here, as the village was full of coaches and  senior school children wandering up and down the main route through this tiny village, at least those pupils that weren’t in the taverna. 

On we drove along winding mountain roads until we reached Meronas.  It is a long time since we have visited this village and where we climbed up the Church bell tower to get a wonderful view of the valley below as directed in the'Rough Guide'.  We did the same today only we had the snow capped Psiloritis mountain to gaze across to. 

Inside the Church I didn’t recall seeing so many beautiful paintings of religious people through the ages, and the chandeliers and furniture were something else. As we were about to leave an old lady came and although I said we didn’t understand her we did gather she had family in Australia. I told her that Meronas had a beautiful church at which point she took my hand and we said goodbye. 

I recall there used to be one large spring close to the ancient Church of Panagia that stands alongside the main road as you leave the village.  This spring was a 'tourist photo stop as saddled donkeys would be tethered by it' but today we found several springs along the main road and each one a different feature.  

It was nice to see so many old doors and windows for me to photograph.     We were so high up in the mountains and yet I was surprised to see some of the trees beginning to blossom, and I even saw a deep red camellia in flower.  

A donkey patiently stood in the entrance to one house.  He had a lovely thick curly coat but wouldn’t co-operate when I got closer to take a photo and kept stamping a back leg on the concrete ground so I thought it was a good time to move on! 

Back in the car we found a lovely picnic stop out of the wind on the mountain road back to Spilli. We were sitting with the car door open minding out own business when an old man carrying a crooked walking stick came along and asked if we were German.  His dog sniffed the air as he spoke to us, but again language kept us from having a conversation.  When we moved along and caught them up the dog went mad again barking and chasing us along the rough track.  What is it with these dogs?  

At Frati bridge before the northerly entrance to Kourtaliotis Gorge someone has placed a couple of bar stools so this looks like being another beer stop for someone!

At home it was warm but the southerly wind has brought a swell to the sea.  As I looked out of our window whilst Keith was talking to Theo, who is still working on the great wall of Plakias, I saw something in the water.  After much discussion it was decided it was an animal.  Lambros joined in using a pair of Theo’s binoculars and pronounced it was a buffalo! Whatever animal it is I only hope it doesn’t land on the little beach next to 'Creta Spirit' as it is so bloated it must have been in the sea for days. 

Up North

MONDAY 19^th JANUARY

We are behaving like tourists getting out and about before we return home!

Today as it was a beautiful morning we discussed returning to Georgioupoli, the small resort we briefly visited with Ian and Julia back at the beginning of November. It was a quick decision and so we were soon driving along the northern highway admiring the views of the snowcapped mountains, and the male nudist on the beach!  Surprised to say the least but the temperature was around 20C.  

In less than an hour of leaving ‘Creta Spirit’ we were parking the car down by the river and wandering along the sea front.  There is a lot of hotels facing the sea and in the back streets, studios and apartments.  A lot of building work is taking place, new builds and modernisations.  We found ourselves walking down a street and seeing a lovely stone building with many arches.  Stood around were life size terracotta statues, one or two in a very distressed state but held together with wide sellotape!  Some of the statues had even been placed on the building's roof.  

Down by the river which was a lovely colour we saw in the season one could hire a ‘cannoe’ or a pedal boat and explore further inland. The other side of the bridge leading out to sea was where the fishing boats were tied up.  Since leaving the car we had been escorted round the village by two stray dogs.  They weren’t that much of a nuisance but did tend to get under our feet at times.  As we walked down towards the sea we passed a field containing a flock of geese. Great - one of the dogs decided to chase them and so we were treated to a spectacular flypast and watch the birds land in the sea.  Luckily Keith had his camera running, mine was in the camera bag!  When I did take the camera out and began to focus I discovered the geese were more interested in coming to see me!

There is a taverna at the entrance to the river but it is closed on Mondays, and it seems every day out of season, however no-one had told the cat who had got itself onto the rocks and was mewing pitifully as we looked down.  We also discovered another small beach and if we had walked across the cove we could have visited a church under the cliff and close to the sea. From the empty taverna terrace we had a good view of St. Nicholas Church sitting at the end of a long rocky walkway that we had visited with Ian and Julia. Today this walkway was covered in thin brown strips of dried seaweed. (This is a common sight on the shoreline after a strong wind.)

We were getting hungry and returned to the village square where several of the cafes were open but offered nothing more than omelettes or salads.  Luckily down another side street we found a small taverna open run by a friendly lady called Alexandra.  The meal was enormous and then she brought out a plate of doughnut ribbons covered in honey and drizzled with desiccated coconut and icing sugar along with a cup of Greek coffee to finish with.  It was so hot and we had made the mistake of sitting by the window in the sunshine.  Thankfully Alexandra suggested she open the sliding full length window and so whilst we enjoyed our meal we could hear the birds singing and watch  the locals as they passed by, especially the young children coming home from school, each one carrying a heavy rucksack. On leaving the taverna we wandered further before returning to the car passing a large Church with a lovely terracotta tiled dome and of course a suitable resting place for the pigeons.

Leaving the village we drove over the bridge along the road signposted to Vamos. On the outskirts we passed a lovely house with some of the raised flower beds full of purple petunias which contrasted beautifully with the grey stone used to make the beds.  ‘Riverside Garden’ was owned by a couple with English sounding names ‘Cliff and Jane Gibson’ and with many of the plants being marked with plastic name stakes I wondered if they ran a small garden centre. Along our route the scenery was pleasant but everywhere seemed to be fenced off so there would be no walking through the olive groves here.  Before long we found ourselves crossing over the main highway and arriving in Vrisses.  We have been through here before and found it awful.  It is a large village on the main road leading to and from Chora Sfakion via the Imbros Gorge.  

Today we stopped and had a look around.  Parking by the river we crossed over the big bridge and down to the lower level that had been paved into a pleasant setting.  The ducks were having a wonderful time sitting or standing on the edge of the waterfall. Around the back streets we came across a large church where again the pigeons seemed to have made themselves at home.  Considering it was late afternoon there was a lot of people about, old men sitting outside the kafenios playing backgammon, people eating in the tavernas and outside one o two homes old ladies sat chatting to each other.  We soon found ourselves walking into the countryside, having walked by several nice homes all behind gates with gardens full of laden orange trees.  What did upset me was the amount of rotting fruit laid on the floor.  The smell of orange was just wonderful and with great sunshine and the backdrop of the snow capped mountains I saw Vrisses in a completely different light. 

Just after 4pm we set off to return home.  

Keith had suggested we take the Imbros route but it had been a busy day so I preferred the main highway.  We came home the main highway but in Armeni took the road to Fotinos.  We hadn’t gone far when we came across a donkey at the side of the road opposite the site of a lovely small church with a very unusual bell tower.  As I got out to (a)  take a photo of the donkey and (b) a photo of the bell tower an old man came out of the property next to where the donkey was tethered.  I noticed he was keeping an eye on me and asI returned to the car said “hello” to him.  After replying he disappeared back into his garden. 

We continued on this road which we discovered early on enjoying the late sun shining in the valleys and in one area looking at large standing rocks that reminded me of the ‘Stone Forest’ in Kunming, China, but of course on a much smaller scale.

It was not so good in Plakias and at ‘Creta Spirit’ Maria greeted us saying the weather had been very warm, especially when she had been cleaning our rooms.

       

Around Preveli Bridge

SUNDAY 18^th JANUARY

After another lazy morning at ‘Creta Spirit’ we went for a meander in the olive groves rather than walk into the village and sit drinking coffee, etc in the bar.  We parked the car over Preveli Bridge to be greeted by several abandoned cats, the ducks were reluctant to leave their warm resting place by the river.  We were going to explore new roads, the first one only leading to a field with neatly stacked scrap metal. Hidden in the trees must have been the house but we could only hear the sounds of children playing.  

The second track off the road leading to the aloni and chuch took us past a large olive grove where anemones were flowering with a few also in the banks.  We had lovely views of the countryside and the entrance into Frati Gorge. But once again the track lead to no-where and yet looking down to a lower level we were only yards away from the track that leads down to Previli Beach.  We could also see another rather unattractive church set in the hillside.  So returning to the car we were a little envious to see a couple sitting on Preveli Bridge enjoying their picnic.   There were no signs of being bothered by the cats as they had a dog with them.  

Back in the car we drove down the road to the next bridge where the guard dog barked ferociously at us as we passed over the bridge to park the car.  Getting out and walking back to the bridge the dog couldn’t have cared less about us.  

We walked up a very rough track with wild terrain on either side, and a strong smell of sheep or goats.  There was no sign or noise of the animals only their droppings so we had to watch where we put our feet!  We reached the unattractive Church, which was fenced off, so continued along the track which was now deeply rutted in several places, until we came to another fence.  This fence was well and truly padlocked with barbed wire everywhere. We could just see the roof and chimney of a small building hidden in the landscape further up the hillside so assume this is someone’s summer home. As you will have already guessed we had to retrace our steps. Although this particular area was full of rocks there were plants and shrubs everywhere with lots of euphorbia just coming into flower. There was also a tall spiky plant with white flowers that I recall seeing several years ago growing high in the mountain area where the ‘vultures’ are protected.  Some of the remains of burnt or old trees made interesting sculptures too.  As we drove back over the bridge the dog went mad again!  

Busy doing nothing

SATURDAY 17^th JANUARY

We have kept in touch with Jean and Vic who in their latest email had asked for photos of the ‘Panorama’ development.  With yesterday’s heavy rain the site was a mud bath so I didn’t venture too far up the narrow entrance to take a photo of the planting around the pool area. We wonder why the road has not been tarmaced especially as all the houses are now complete, and begin to think if it ever will be.  

As for the supermarket a lake had formed in the deep hole around the foundations.  2 men were working on the structure and with the cement mixers in convoy yesterday despite the rain we can now see clearly the current height of the building and there is more to come.  We feel all the houses on the right side of the complex will have a grand view of the back of the supermarket!

With a slight breeze it was a good time for a spot of kite flying, something we haven’t done for weeks.  However I was surprised to find the wind was quite strong and as the kite string began to sing to me and the kite was behaving erratically over the sea I decided I had had enough.  The sun catching the waves as they broke on the shore line with spray from the tops was enough for me to get out my camera whilst Keith continued to fly his small orange octopus kite.  It was not long before he too decided the wind was getting stronger and once he had folded it up and deposited them and the reels in the car boot we went for a walk on the beach.  Today the sand appeared to be very soft so walking on the beach didn’t half pull on the old calf muscles!  Needless to say as we walked into the village we came back on the footpath.   

We spent the rest of the afternoon on our balcony watching a good sunset before returning indoors.

Ayios Nikalaos

FRIDAY 16^th JANUARY

We made a decision last night to visit Ayios Nikalaos, 65 km from Heraklion on the east coast and a popular destination for holiday makers, especially the English.  As we left home at 9am the rain began and we hadn’t travelled far before we encountered flooded roads, especially Koxare where the whole village was awash.  We must be mad we said! Still we continued up to Rethymno and as we approached Armeni the rain stopped and the sun began to shine.  Joining the main highway that runs along the north coast and as far as Ag. Nik we saw that Rethymno was basking in brilliant sunshine.  We had one or two light showers on our journey which took us about two and a half hours.  Arriving we managed to follow the one way system and find a place to park by the marina as suggested in the ‘Rough Guide’.  We paid 3 euros after informing the cashier we would be staying around a couple of hours.  Getting out of the car my first stop was a loo which according to the site map was on the marina.  It took some finding as it turned out to be a portaloo!  Having used the men’s toilet as I failed to see the sign on the open door ( but it was very clean) we set off to explore The marina was full of boats both in the water and out and some very impressive ones at that.  Buildings included ‘Race Headquarters’ and ‘Press Office’ and on the wall information about race day procedures.  

We followed the tourist signs on the lamp posts and found the 'lake' which features on all the town's promotions. A picturesque place with lots of small fishing boats neatly lined up around the lake with several eating places on the quayside, and here a couple of fishermen were passing the time of day.  We walked over the road bridge and wondered if the small fishing boats actually went out to sea as the way out appeared to be very low under this bridge. 

By now we were getting hungry but trying to find somewhere to eat was a problem unless we wanted souvlaki or an Italian pizza or pasta, which we didn’t. Walking along narrow streets where many of the shops and eating places were closed we found the  coffee bars were only serving drinks, and so we arrived back at the lake before we found a restaurant open.  We could have sat by the lake and although the sun was shining and it felt quite warm we decided to eat in.  A lovely Chef’s salad, and then lamb chops, and on settling the bill we were each given a small glass of cointreau.  I was a little disappointed Keith drank his as I am quite partial to this liqueur!

We wanted to return home before it got dark so made our way back to the marina via a walkway along the seafront which soon brought us back into the work yard.  By now the sky was getting darker and we didn’t want to drive in unfamiliar territory in heavy rain or the dark, although most of the route is on dual carriageway.  The road from Heraklion is being improved and it looks as though there is going to be a bypass of the village of Malia where the street was lined with shops and stalls selling Cretan bananas and bags of oranges.  It must be hell on this road in the summer months.  

We arrived home around 5pm and noticed that it was still quite light at almost 6pm. 

Frati valley

WEDNESDAY 16^th JANUARY

The strong warm southerly wind is persisting and Keith made a decision to go walking in the Frati valley – at least we would be out of the wind.  Parking the car on the outskirts of the village we set off down one of two tracks. We immediately disturbed 4 guard dogs as we passed a small enclosure, two of the younger dogs repeatedly barking, but wagging their tails as though pleased to see someone, whilst the older Alsatians just stared at us. Down and down and round and round we walked on the track good in some places very muddy in others until we reached the stream.  The wind was surprisingly as strong as ever and so I was not looking forward to the head wind on our return.  Over the river we began to climb again passing through a small copse of oak trees where some of the dead leaves were blowing about in the wind like small birds flying among the branches. 

We had a good view of the Church that stands out in the valley with the steep rock face of the entrance into Kourtalioti Gorge behind and looking back saw the village of Frati.  Below was a fast running stream and we began to hope we would come to a bridge as we began our descent.  Thankfully we did so we were able to do a circular walk.  Over the bridge we saw an ideal place to stop for our lunch and sat on large boulders by the water.  Above us in a small field an old man was searching for horta. 

During our walk I had frequently seen what I thought was wild celery plants but on rubbing the leaves found there was no smell.  Sitting by the stream I saw one of these plants coming into flower. Whatever it is the flies certainly like it!   

As we set off again we found the wind was now behind us and blowing us along at quite a pace.  Up and up we climbed to get another view of the front of the Church and in the background the track though the oak trees. I know we have visited this Church years ago but we wondered how we had got to it as we could see no visible access, yet there was a track leading to the area.  We soon seemed to be back at the car and on our way home. 

We stopped at ‘Smyrna’ and had a coffee and beer with Patti, a young woman who works for the car hire company.  It has taken us 8 years she said to have this coffee!  The time flew quickly and she had to leave us at 3pm to pick up her 2 small children. As we continued to sit with our drinks we watched 3 wind surfers struggle with the elements to remain upright, one of them being a beginner so he spent more time in the water than on his board.   I have also discovered where the lone goose of Plakias is spending the winter.  It, along with a few cats, are living in 'Christos Taverna'! 

A change of plan

SUNDAY 11^th JANUAY

We have had a mixture of weather over the last few days so haven’t ventured very far. Today was again rain and sunshine, the rain hanging around the mountains but with the wind it has brought the spray down to the coast. It seems strange sitting  on the balcony with the sun beating down on us and yet there is 'rain' either side of us. The power went off around 11am so I suggested we take a run somewhere. 

Keith thought Trio Petra would be good but with the strong wind walking along this long stretch of beach may not be such a good idea.  Still we headed off through the Gorge  and along the Frati/Mixarouma road where the cloud was low over the mountains and the sky very black.  At the junction we changed our minds and instead of heading east turned to the west and Rodakino.  It was just as windy down by the sea and getting out of the car we got sandblasted.  However walking along the tarmac road we soon had the shelter of the hillside and on our return took our picnic down onto the deserted beach.  

Sitting on the rolls of wooden planking

that forms paths from the road down to the sea in the summer we watched a couple of men working outside the buildings at the end of this stretch of road.  One man appeared to be beating the hell out of the side of an old pickup truck whilst the other watched on, and keeping a watchful eye on us as well.  Before long thick black smoke began to rise up in the air and as the wind caught it blew it onto the beach by the caves, which is where we were originally going to sit.  We couldn’t decide what they were burning next to the vehicle, although Keith did think it was old oil, but it was certainly smelly as well. 

Returning to the car we were lucky to catch sight of a rainbow over Rodakino.  Lunch finished as it doesn't take that long to eat bread and cheese we decided to go home to the shelter of our balcony whilst the sun shone. Stopping briefly so I could identify some large purple flowering plants growing in a small cluster on the roadside, they turned out to be wild lupins, another first for me.

Life without Stef

THURSDAY 8^th JANUARY

It was a beautiful day and so we decided to take a picnic and drive down towards Ag. Galini.  Coming along the Frati to Mixarouma road we encountered an old man sitting on a wooden chair by the side of the narrow road.  Waving to us as we approached we stopped and as I got out of the car to see if he wanted a lift he almost fell off his chair landing on the car door.  I asked if he wanted Spilli but he said “Ochi” ( NO) and pointed in the opposite direction to the way we were going.  There was no alternative but to help him in the front seat, as he had great difficulty in walking, and take him to his destination.  We didn’t have far to go as we wanted to be at the kantina, which we had of  course passed, so had to turn around.  Arriving outside the tented area and assisting the old man out of the car  he began calling for Kostas. A young man appeared very quickly and thanked us.  I said I was concerned his family would think we had hijacked him and would be worried, but he assured me it was okay and thanked us once again.

We continued on our way to park by the Church Stef and I had visited the other day.  Leaving the car we walked down into the valley below, once again passing the field full of daisies.  As we began our descent the banks were full of anemones and of course the oxalis. 

We arrived at the bridge over the fast flowing river and followed it until we found a suitable stop for our lunch.  It was so warm we didn’t need to wear our woollies but they came in very handy when it came to sitting on the rocks by the river.  In the distance we could hear the noise of a generator and when we continued our walk came across a family collecting their olives using several machines instead of waiting for the olives to fall naturally.  Most people seem to be using this method nowadays, including Theo this year.  

We had hoped this would be a circular walk but arriving at an area with a derelict building and a bit futher on a field with some derelict greenhouses we found this was the end of the trail so had to retrace our steps.

 

As the whole area was a mass of anemones I collected a few flowers for Maria; naughty I know but there were so many the few I picked would not be missed. 

Returning home via Mixarouma we saw the old man’s chair was missing!Back on our balcony at 'Creta Spirit'  the fishing boats were out in the bay and one was still at sea when we went to bed.   There will be fresh fish in the shop tomorrow!    

Holiday comes to an end for some

TUESDAY 6^th JANUARY

Not a good weather forecast for today – rain.  We had a thunderstorm during our late breakfast that brought giant hailstones with it.  Today sees the end of the festive season and at noon the young men of the village will ‘swim for the Cross’.  This is a tradition carried out in towns and villages that usually have a port and in times gone past was a form of baptism. We left it until almost mid day to go down to the village and arrived just in time as people gathered around the jetty which had been festooned with Greek pennants.  A small stage had been erected and the local priests had gathered to perform the ceremony.  With the cold wet weather it was a very short affair and I noted that this year the priests remained in their black garments rather than wearing their beautifully embroidered robes.  The head priest threw the cross, attached to a long length of ribbon, into the water twice and on the third throw the young men dived into the water each one trying to be the first to retrieve the Cross. 

Congratulations went to the young man who found it in the somewhat murky water due to the muddy brown water running down the streams that lead into the sea. The young man swam back to the stage area to be blessed by the Priest and receive a special award.  I had read that for years a money prize was awarded to the lucky swimmer but it lead to fighting among the contestants and so a lesser value prize has since been given.  The whole event only lasted 10 minutes this year.

After lunch Stef and I returned to Plakias and took a walk along the beach. Keith had encouraged me to take the car into the village due to the weather and I’m glad I did as it began to rain again and we would have been wet through by the time we returned to ‘Creta Spirit’ if we had walked. 

Stef returns home today via Heraklion catching the evening ferry to Pireaus and then a flight around lunch time from Athens tomorrow. At 5pm we set off for Rethymno Bus Station as Stef said she would catch the bus to Heraklion rather than have us drive all the way there and back in the rain and at night.  The buses run every hour and we just missed the 17.45.  There was a nice warm waiting room, and I had cooked her a couple of fennel pies for the journey, so we said our goodbyes again and returned to Plakias.  We stopped at the café ‘Pyrgos’ (the Tower) on the main Rethymno/Ag. Galini road, a first as we have always been put off by the number of tour cars parked outside the place.  It is a large stone ‘fortification’ looking building and so we were pleasantly surprised to find it was not so large inside.  A lovely wood fire was burning but all the tables around it were occupied.  It was warm inside so it didn’t matter where we sat. The menu was extensive and the food was good, especially the oyster mushrooms fried in a light batter.  They served us a plate of Greek yoghurt with preserved fruit in syrup, and of course a small flask of raki just to finish off our meal.  By the door were plates of the Christmas biscuits but we were so full we didn’t collect one on leaving, but thought it was a nice gesture.

There had been a landslide close by with several large rocks in the road and from our table we had watched the bulldozer come and move the debris.  We also saw the police car come and go up and down this stretch of road and assumed they were looking for the landslide.  Too late again!  We still drove home carefully as there was a lot of flooding on certain parts of the roads and was also difficult to see at night.  Stef texted us to say she was settled in her room on the ferry, which she was sharing with three Greek ladies, and was enjoying her fennel pie!  

Walking in the rain

MONDAY 5^th JANUARY

We had planned to take Stef on the walk to Nisi but it had been raining quite heavily by the look of the gravel area in front of our building and so we abandoned the idea.  Instead we walked along the good tracks in the olive groves behind Lefkogia which was fine until 1pm the predicted time for rain. 

Stef was the only sensible one among us having put her umbrella in her large shoulder bag.  The rain wasn’t too bad at first and we took shelter under a couple of fir trees at the posh entrance to an olive grove.  This field had large iron gates with tall concrete posts on which  large colourful plant pots containing a small aloe vera had been placed.  The owner came out in his pickup and stopped.  Was he going to offer us a lift into Lefkogia which was not that far away?  No, he informed us it was raining and drove off! As we thought the rain was easing we set off back into the village.  

By the time we arrived we were quite wet but we were not to be put off at having our lunch in the village and walked into Vasillios’ grill house.  We had a little trouble ordering the food from the blackboard.  Keith asked for sardines to be informed that was salad.  He had only concentrated on the first three letters of the Greek writing and assumed it said sardines.  He had an omelette.  Stef wanted horta (local wild green leaves boiled and served with lemon and olive oil) and koukouvakia but ordering two dishes for her took some doing, as did my feta saganaki.  But we had a lovely meal and at the end of it the young girl produced a plate of slices of an alcoholic laced chocolate swiss roll along with a small flask of raki.

After a cup of tea at 3pm Stef and I took a walk into Souda as it had stopped raining, but the sky was still very dark over the mountains so I went prepared this time with umbrella and raincoat. The rain never came and the late appearance of the sun gave us a good opportunity for another photo lesson. 

We stayed out climbing up to the olive groves in order to see the sun set before returning home.    

Birthday outing

SUNDAY 4^th JANUARY

Today is Stef’s birthday and we thought a trip to Aghia Galini would be nice.  The weather was perfect and hot enough to walk about with no woollies on.  We had passed  snow on the mountains,  and in Ag. Galini wild anemones growing on the hillsides, fishermen working on their boats whilst others were line fishing along the quayside, and lots of cars in the Square.

However there was only the fish taverna open for food but the smell coming up the street was a bit off putting but on passing saw most of the tables inside were occupied.  

It didn’t matter we had our picnic, including one of Stef’s favourite dishes – fennel pie.  We sat on the harbour top to have this before setting off once more to explore the village. 

Around the upper levels we met an old lady feeding the chickens that I had photographed behind bars on our last visit.  Today she had let them out but only a few dared to leave the dark room.  Even the soaked bread she had put out for them along with greens only brought one or two to the doorway.  There was plenty of cats around for Stef to photograph as well.  

When it was time to leave I had hoped we could visit a small church hidden in the olive groves outside Ag. Galini but the road was impassable for our little car. I had wanted to show Stef this setting as the Church is in a field of anemones.  

However on our way home we stopped at another church where in the adjoining field was a carpet of daisies and we had a lovely view down into the valley  below.  It had been 25C in Ag. Galini and 16C in Plakias when we returned home but inside the house it felt quite cool.  Stef was making tea today – Jamie Oliver’s fish pie.  It was great and we all got rakied again! 

Rethymno

SATURDAY 3^RD JANUARY

Rain in Plakias drove us to head north to Rethymno, well that and the fact I had run out of raki biscuits!  It was a good decision as the weather was lovely and 17C so we spent the morning wandering around the streets and showing Stef the Christmas displays once we had visited the old bakery for my biscuits.  It was very busy inside with two men preparing slices of sesame topped brown bread ready to be baked in the over.  These rusks would then be put into cellophane bags and sold to eat with a glass of raki.  Larger rusks are used in the dish ‘Koukouvakia’ where the rusks are usually lightly soaked in water to soften them and then slices of tomato and feta cheese and herbs are added and the dish is then drizzled in olive oil. It’s a good way of using up stale bread as well. 

Lunch was taken in the raki bar ‘Messostrati’ and then it was back to exploring more streets in the old town coming across who named after someone called 'Stef' which made our Stef's day.  We came across the fountain and today the water was not running – is this another first? I have been trying to help Stef improve her photographic skills so some of the buildings were ideal subjects, although she prefers to takepictures of the local cats!

Late afternoon we set off back home taking the newly discovered road at Armeni down to Agios Ioannis.  Everything looked so different but still atmospheric and as we neared Plakias the sky looked black.  The sea was quite choppy and it felt cool in the breeze.  Theo with Lambros' help were still building the great wall of Plakias! 

More snow

FRIDAY 2^nd JANUARY

Temperatures are back up to around 16C and so we would head out to Hora Sfakion.  Leaving Sellia we encountered an old man, and presumably his wife, leaving the village both riding on their donkeys, something we are seeing less of these days.  We stopped to show Stef the little ‘fairy’ dale where today the water was gushing down the hillside and pouring into the pools before flowing out and under the road to fall down eventually into the sea at Souda.She was delighted at seeing the ‘cobra plant’ for the first time.  (I really must find out the botanical name for this member of the pitcher plant family.)  Despite the wet weather the ground and leaves in the small area were quite dry.

We passed through Frangokastello having told her previously that the castle can no longer been seen clearly due to all the new buildings.  It’s becoming quite a settlement and we were surprised to see so many cars outside the tavernas that were open.

In Hora Sfakion we watched the ‘Samaria’ ferry come in and see the vehicles and people disembark, the first vehicle being a builder’s wagon with the cement mixed on tow.  It was really pleasant we for a minute we thought Stef was going to take another swim when she saw a sign in the harbour saying 'No swimming' only someone had crossed out the N and put a G instead,  but she decided against it. Perhaps because her swimwear was still in the car.

After lunch in the harbour side taverna we took the Imbros Gorge road surprised to find that the road was still being widened and 3 tunnels had been built.  One of the tunnels was close to the small taverna that hung over the Gorge. Now there was just the burnt out shell of the building with no access to it.  We had to stop several times to allow the heavy plant machines to move the rock and soil broken away by machines and watch the debris being loaded into a convoy of wagons that we had passed on our way up the winding road.  The new road will be much better especially for the coaches coming down from the north of the island but I missed being able to take photo stops and admire the scenery.  We had hoped to return home via Kalikratis, a mountain village that until recently was only inhabited in the summer months.   

Last year we saw people living there in the winter months due to the improvement of the roads to the area. At one time Kallikratis was the only place we could see the grape vines growing in the region. It was also to be another day of seeing the snow in the mountains – fabulous.  However it wasn’t long before we found ourselves in it.  A pickup passed by and assuming the road was okay we continued along the narrow road, but as the snow in the shady part of the mountain route brushed the underneath of our Yaris Keith decided to turn around.  

We hadn’t gone far when Stef and I had to get out and push as the car wheels failed to grip in the deep slushy snow.  On the move Keith kept going so Stef and I had to walk to where he had safely parked in a temperature of 6C but with the exercise and a snowball fight we didn't feel cold.  Good fun although I had been using the video camera on this section  and when we played it back there was a lot of expletives from all of us, including nervous laughter from Stef as well!!!