Amoudi and Lefkogia

TUESDAY 18^th NOVEMBER

We went down to Amoudi beach a short distance from Plakias and one of the many small coves in the area. At the hotel we saw signs of life and signs which tell us the hotel has now become the area’s ‘Dive Centre’ whereas it used to be in the next cove ‘Shinaria’.  At the back of the beach area are several neatly lined tamarisk trees which made ideal shelters for vehicles.  Usually several camper vans can be see here but today there was only one.  The owners, dressed in their swimwear, were going about their chores, the wife doing the washing and the man cleaning the van.  We strolled across the gritty sand to what was once a narrow flowing stream that we could easily cross to walk up the hillside.  Today this stream was a brown, wide, fast flowing river falling over many large flat uneven rocks before reaching the sea and turning it brown.

 

We also made time for a walk around the olive groves again. This time parking on waste ground further into the groves and near a small church that stands on a junction.  Taking the track to the right, passing a small house locked up for the winter but with a pile of neatly stacked eucalyptus wood on land by the road between the church and the house, we found ourselves being greeted by a barking dog.  Did this track lead anywhere other than to another single storey house hidden amongst the olive trees?  We found it did and passing the now quiet dog we saw a lady and small child in the garden of a house and waved as we passed by.  Again we experienced lovely views of Plakias bay and the area as we climbed to higher levels.  Spotting the new villas below we could now see the layout resembled a small hamlet.  We watched a large concrete mixer wind its way through the tracks hidden by the olive trees and having to reverse down the last section to meet up with a bright red concrete machine that pours the cement into the buildings. The long arm of this particular machine stood out in an arch shape above the tree tops.  Keith twisted his knee the other night and so we have had to restrict the length of our walks.  He felt this was as far as we should go today and so we turned around.  We said “hello” to the little girl who was now helping mummy who was varnishing planks of wood set on stands by the track. 

 

 

Time to drive

MONDAY 17^th NOVEMBER

A repeat of yesterday’s weather and when it did improve it wasn’t suitable for kite flying.  Keith thought this was a good time for me to learn to drive on the right and so I headed up to Preveli Monastery knowing there would be very little, if any, traffic on this road.  We stopped in the deserted car park at the Monastery and looking over the walls heard the sound of a car horn beeping in what we thought was Morse code.  We couldn’t see anything other than the movement of a large flock of goats.  The noise stopped and then began again, and the flock began to move, and we decided this must be the way the farmers are now herding their animals. 

I made a stop at a small church located between the Lower and Upper Monasteries where the builder has incorporated an ancient marble slab, dated 1846, as a feature in the wall where a spring emerges.  He has also formed an arch in the lower section of the stonework that formed the steps leading up to the now padlocked gate.  Such a shame we could not investigate further if only to find out which Saint the church is dedicated to.

 

 

 

Busy doing nothing

SATURDAY 15^th NOVEMBER

Jean and Vic said their goodbyes as today they move into their new home, that is if the furniture arrives. It was supposed to be delivered on Thursday but that didn’t happen.  The curtain man came but there was no power on site so he will be returning on Monday.  We wondered if he had heard of cordless drills!

 

It was such a lovely day I stayed home sitting on our balcony.  Keith once again went to help in the olive grove in the afternoon.  Maria had invited us to eat with them tonight but at teatime she called me in concerned about the hardness of the beans she had used in the soup which we were to have.  What should she do?  I suggested she removed the beans and called it vegetable soup!  By the time we sat down to eat the beans were fine, at least we thought so.  I reminded her of the times I have been unsuccessful in making bean soup – I never seem to buy the right beans. 

Whilst the men talked and watched TV Maria and I set about making ‘Merenda’ a chocolate hazelnut spread which turned out to be absolutely delicious – sod the calories!  The carobs were the failure Theo had predicted and despite a couple of hours boiling the result was just a thin brown liquid with lots of sediment.  Suggesting we leave it overnight to see if it thickened we returned home after all it was getting on for midnight.

 

 

SUNDAY 16^th  NOVEMBER

We were late rising, the noise of banging disturbing us.  We thought workmen were blasting more rocks on the ‘Dragon’ but once up discovered we were having a thunderstorm. I went to inspect the carob honey and we all agreed it should be dumped! 

With a good wind we went to fly our kites but it was too strong for me, and at the first sign of lightning Keith brought his down.  By now it felt cool so we didn’t even linger for a game of boules on the beach.  

At home the thunder continued and a few spots of rain fell, just enough to make the greenery smell wonderful.  At last the clouds moved over and once again we were sitting in hot sunshine. I watched as the island of Gavdos disappeared under low dark clouds, as did part of the horizon, but everything was rapidly moving eastwards leaving a very pleasant afternoon.  We even managed a game of boules with Lambros before he and Maria went up to the olive grove.  The little fishing boat returned to our bay and Sunday afternoon walkers passed by on their way to and from Souda.  Theo stayed home and did some tidying up around the olive trees in their garden which have a little fruit on some of them this year.  Lambros and Maria returned home, Lambros with torn trousers but very happy that he had found a sheep’s horn.

 

 

Down in the valley

FRIDAY 14^th NOVEMBER

I was right about the sunset bringing good weather.  According to the car it’s 22C but feels so much hotter.  As the noise of the fishing boats woke us early it seemed a good idea to get up and get off to explore the valley at the entrance to Kourtaliotis Ravine.  

We could see a path alongside the river and hoped to be able to follow it, although it would mean crossing the river.

Down in the very bottom is a pumping station and the river flows very close to it.  Here we were able to get down to the water's edge and watch the river flow around large boulders into very deep pools under the shade of the overhanging trees and then out into the sunshine.

On the opposite side water trickled down fern covering the lower part of the cliff face again falling into very deep water that appeared to be still.  We threw a couple of sticks into the water and it was some time before they started to move – in fact we moved on before they did.  

Passing a small weir where watercress was growing in the almost still water at the side we found there was no suitable way to cross the river and  so returned to the gazebo Ian had visited on the day we took them to the church of St. Nicholas.  Ian was right about the missing pieces of wood forming the seating.  Someone had been along and cut out lengths of timber. Signs of attempting to cut pieces from the back supports, only to fail, could also be seen and the bag of cement Ian mentioned had disappeared too. 

Returning to Plakias we had hoped to fly our kites but as usual there was no wind and it was absolutely baking on our balcony.  I was relieved when Maria asked me in to help her prepare the carobs she had collected the other day to make carob honey.  Theo said we were wasting our time as we should have made it in August.  Now the carobs were hard and dry.  Washing them and breaking them into pieces to leave for 24 hours in the tepid water should see results.   

THURSDAY 13^TH NOVEMBER

Another beautiful day and ideal for kite flying.  During breakfast on our balcony we met our new neighbours, Jean and Vic who are here to oversee the completion of their holiday home. In the village we bought more fresh fish, sardines for lunch and swordfish steaks for our evening meal. With all this fish we thought we would be bothered by the young cat but saw no sign of it.  We can only assume it has run away as last night Lambros was giving one of the cats a trim and whilst Keith was sat on the balcony Lambros came out of their house covered in fur! We never discovered which cat had the trim.

Maria disappeared up to the olive groves in the afternoon and Theo and Keith decided they would go and help, or hinder, her.  It was sunset when they returned Keith looking very disheveled.  It appears he and Theo were cutting and burning branches of a carob tree and one of the branches fell on Keith as he was dragging a previously cut branch so didn't see it falling.  Maria says Theo and I have been conspiring to get some insurance money!  

There was a lovely sunset tonight so I hope it is a sign for more good weather tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

Ian's Dreams

During the week Ian and Julia were in Crete you will have read about our days out and the places we visited.  Sometimes the roads were not so good for our little Yaris and it had been said the 4X4 would have been better.  However when Ian said we should find a cheap one this wasn't what we had in mind and we couldn't all fit on it!  

Okay how about the pickup?

We have seen some lovely houses and perhaps a holiday home would be nice. Once again I don't think this is what Julia had in mind. 

Good project for retirement time.

 We didn't think so!

So after a week of debating the pros and cons the solution was found when we went into Rethymno. He would settle for the floating gin palace!

Rethymno and a walk to the old mill

TUESDAY 11^TH NOVEMBER

It was dark when we woke so were surprised to find it was 9.30am.  Kostas had telephoned Theo to say the car was fixed so Keith went off to see him.  Apparently they had to take the car into Rethymno three times before the electrical problem was finally fixed. We had done 673 kilometers in the borrowed car. 

Just after 11am we left for Rethymno to visit the Champion supermarket, which is part of the ‘Carre Four’ group, to purchase our DVD player.  This time we had a choice of machines and settled for an unknown name as it listed so many different types of discs, etc. that could be played on it. The traffic was as bad as ever and the road works n the city didn’t help either. 

At home Theo came to talk to us whilst Maria was cleaning our apartment.  After lunch he and Keith disappeared up to the farm.    Theo had taken Keith along tracks at Souda that were unfamiliar to us.  However they did go on ones we knew but found that as they had not been used one particular route was overgrown and another blocked with fallen rocks causing Theo to reverse and find an alternative way. As they returned we had a light shower which displayed a pale rainbow over the shrubbery next to our buildings.

 

 

WEDNESDAY 12^TH NOVEMBER

We had had hoped to fly our kites but after several attempts, whilst Keith just stood and watched me with hands in his pockets, I gave up.  It was such a lovely day feeling much warmer than the 21C registered on the car’s gauge and so we took a walk up to the ‘Old Mill’ only this time we took the tarmac road which was laid only as far as the water storage tanks.  From there it changed to a rough track leading  past several small houses and farm buildings where the dogs attempted to frighten us with their half hearted barking.  Following the path of the stream below we reached an olive grove and recognising the area. This is the point where if we had taken the other route we would have to cross the stream, something I always find difficult and usually end up with at least one wet foot.  From hereon we had to clamber across large flat rocks laid at an angle on the hillside and long narrow paths to reach the ancient bridge that lead to the Mill.

At this point having gone over the bridge we decided not to bother climbing up the mountainside any further but return home for a late lunch.

 

  

Ithought the little cloud resembled a puff of smoke making the mill run look more like a chimney.

Another walk in the olive groves

Monday 10^th November

As we have had no exercise for the last two days we decided a brisk walk in the olive groves in Lefkogia would do us good.  Again we disturbed birds of prey but never have our cameras ready to catch them taking off in front of us.  We found the tracks we had taken brought us to the front of the villas and we were surprised how much land each of the large villas had.  

We stopped for lunch in Lefkogia having an omelette that was more like a vegetable soufflé topped off with a slice of ham and cheese.  We had also ordered a Greek salad but could only manage half of it.

 

Back home we sat on our balcony enjoying the lovely sunshine and commenting that it was the first time we had seen the island of Gavdos since we arrived in Crete. With dark cloud hanging over the island and the stretch of water between it wasn’t long before the island disappeared again.  As it got cooler we returned indoors where I continued to catch up on my blogs and Keith read his book whilst we listened to one of our music DVDs.  Suddenly the music stopped waking Keith.  All the lights were on the machine but it failed to play any DVD so it looks like we shall have buy a new machine. 

 

Lambros' birthday party

Sunday 9^th November

A busy day as Lambros is holding his birthday party this afternoon and I have agreed to help Maria prepare the food.  So the morning was taken up with preparing tuna filling for the choux buns she made, egg fillings for the boiled eggs (that we hoped to make to look like penguins and then thought better of it hence mixing the egg yolk with finely chopped onion and seasonings etc.), frying meat balls and finally in the late afternoon chicken schnitzels.  Only 8 school friends turned up as the others were attending a wedding or some one else’s party as there were a lot of village children celebrating their birthdays this week.  The boys seemed to enjoy themselves and there was certainly plenty to eat but they were not that hungry as some had already eaten at home whilst others had gone to the souvlaki place before arriving at ‘Creta Spirit’. Still as the afternoon wore on and the boys were doing a lot of running around, especially in the treasure hunt game that Lambros had worked on thinking up clues that the boys in their teams had to find before revealing the whereabouts of the treasure box full of confectionary, the food began to disappear. I guess Maria could have fed the 5,000! It was dark before parents came to collect their offspring and stay for coffee, cake and nibbles.  One lady brought her young son who enjoyed playing with the over friendly, placid, white stray cat that seems to have made itself at home in the last few days. One of the clues in the treasure hunt referred to a cat and this stray was quite happy for the boys to look her over thinking a clue was attached to the animal. It wasn’t.  I said my goodbyes and came home to prepare our evening meal of guess what – meatballs!

 

Keith had enjoyed a peaceful day even Theo only stayed 10 minutes for his usual coffee and ashtray

Fodele

Saturday 8^th November

We drove Ian and Julia to Heraklion Airport to catch their 2pm flight home to England via Athens and having said our goodbyes set off for the northern village of Fodele, the birthplace of ‘El Greco’.  We discovered a nice little village located a few kilometres off the main highway between Herklion and Rethymno.  

We drove through the leaf strewn centre, something we guess we would be unable to do in the seaon when the village will be full of tourists, to park by a large taverna.  Most of the tavernas and a couple of gift shops were still open. As we got out of the car we decided we would have lunch in the taverna.  We saw a table had been set out for around 30 people but apart from a couple aimlessly wandering around the taverna tables set out overlooking the stream there was no-one else in sight.  Keith asked the man if they were open, as we assumed they were the owners.  They turned out to be the couple who were hosting the party!  The taverna was indeed open and we chose a table in the sunshine right by the window where we could watch 3 lambs being cooked on individual rotating spits all turned by a series of gears over charcoal, the smell being wonderful.  Guests began to arrive as well as more people to eat and we wondered if the place was open all year as inside also looked very inviting.  

Our meal of lamb chops finished we took a stroll along the nature trail following the stream and passing an assortment of wooden seating made out of the tree stumps, a pen of goats and sheep, orange groves, and everywhere an abundance of morning glory, some of it trailing over tree branches arching the stream.

 

Across stepping stones the path narrowed and then returned to the large cobble stones similar to those we had already walked along.

 

 

We decided to return to the village where old ladies were sat outside their shops, one in particular having a siesta by her open door.  As we passed I took a quick glance inside and saw just the one room downstairs with a ladder leading to the upper floor. One lady tried her best to get me to look as her embroidered linen. Further along the street was a couple of concrete bridges over the stream, the latter one leading to the museum relating to ‘El Greco’ and also to a Byzantine Church, the roof of which we had spotted in the orange groves on our way in.  

  We didn’t venture any further and returned to the car only to be asked by the old lady again if we wanted to buy oranges or honey!  She failed to get us to part with any money!

Last days out

I seem to have forgotten to publish this issue - sorry!

Thursday 6^th November

Yiannis had predicted another hot day and for once a local person was right.  Late in the morning we set off for Rethymno but found the traffic was much busier than on the same day last week.  Even parking on the harbour top was not that easy as several cars had their nose pointed inwards around the roundabout.  We found a space close to the ‘Dolphin’ sculpture so at least we can find it on our return.  

Thursday is market day and so we wondered around all the stalls admiring the curtain material which is so much nicer than that available locally at home,  I saw a pair of sandals last week and decided I would get them this week if the man still had them.  The price stated ‘Last week of sale 15 euros’.  I wondered how much they would be this week then!  They didn’t have my size on display and I remembered they were only 10 euros last week.  In the fruit and veg section we bought a kilo of mandarin oranges even though I only wanted half a kilo but they were only 1 euro so the man only sold them in kilos.   We wanted to find a book shop to buy a copy of a digital road atlas that one of Maria’s guests had left for their next visit but despite visiting several shops we couldn’t find a copy. Lunch was taken in the raki bar ‘Messostrati’ and then it was back to the car and home to Plakias. 

We paid a visit to the new wet fish shop and met the fisherman himself who was an oldish looking man who spoke excellent English.  When we said we wanted fish for the oven he disappeared into the walk in fridge and returned with a box containing a fresh swordfish.  We asked for 4 steaks and were pleasantly surprised that they cost only 5 euros.  A great night in playing cards, whilst listening to music DVDs until the early hours.

Friday 7^th November

Julia fancied a run to Chora Sfakion, a small place along the coast which we visited with them last year, but when I said how long it would take to drive there she changed her mind. 

I suggested she and Ian climb up Timeos Stavros to visit the church. It would be good exercise seeing as how they would be travelling all day tomorrow.  That was too much!  So my next suggestion was to walk to the church at the beginning of Frati Gorge which was accepted with enthusiasm.  Picnic packed we drove down the Previli road parking by the Venetian bridge where we were welcomed by the geese and cats wandering around the stream and small pond.  Ignoring them we set off along the track that lead to the church.  A flock of sheep were sheltering from the heat under the shade of a large carob tree growing by the church.  The aloni, a stone lined sunken circle that was used for grinding the corn years ago, was now being used for the sheep, the floor being strewn with smelly grass and hay and a couple of feeding troughs set in the centre of the circle.  So we would not be stopping for our lunch here today.  We continued along the track passing the home of some Dutch people with a couple of large wigwams placed on their land. We hoped to get into an olive grove where there is a little house with a lovely orange tree beside the door but nets had been laid behind a wire fence and so we felt we could not intrude any further. 

“What about the seat at the beginning of Kourtaliotis Ravine?”  A good place for our picnic – yes.  After we had eaten Keith returned to the car whilst the rest of us went down to visit the Church of St. Nicholas in the bottom of the Ravine. A workman was laying a new floor around the outside of the Church whilst further along a couple more were building walls, so high it was difficult to see the 5 waterfalls that fall down the cliff face into a  pool.  We couldn’t lean over as the cement was still wet.  

Climbing back up the steps Ian took off along a track whilst Julia and I returned to join Keith in the car. Keith had walked along the road to a section where a few days ago a large amount of sand had been deposited.  He discovered a length of black pipe to which an upturned road cone had been inserted in the end, the top being cut off the cone.  The men had shovelled the sand into the cone which went all the way down to the bottom of the Ravine.  I told him we couldn’t get to the water’s edge because of the large pile of sand and flat rocks sliding down the mountainside where the men were building the walls. We never cease to be amazed at the uses for some of the items in Crete! We drove to a suitable stopping area at the entrance to the Ravine and watched for Ian to come along.  He seemed to take ages but we discovered he had made a detour down into the bottom of the valley where a gazebo has been built.  He said someone had cut pieces of wood out of the seating, and there was a bag of cement if we knew anyone who wanted some. 

Back at home we played boules with Lambros, Keith being the referee before going up to ‘Kastro’.  

Gianiou

Wednesday 5th November

No wind, sunshine and hot so the fishing boats are msking the most of this wonderful weather. The trouble is they are out all hours and in the stillness of the night their engine noise echos around and disturbs me.  I can usually sleep through anything you care to throw at me!

We decided a walk to the mountain village of Gianiou near to Lefkogia would be nice and we could walk along the track to Preveli Monastery if we felt energetic enough.  We could also have lunch in the small taverna in Lefkogia again.  Climbing up the road leading to the village we had

some great views of the surrounding countryside, especially the area leading into Frati Gorge where the small white church stood out sheltered under the steep cliff at the start of this Gorge.  Further up the hill a white church with a blue roof also made a lovely photographic stop, for Julia and I anyway.  The men were always ahead of us.  In the village one of the old ladies sitting in the sunshine seemed pleased to see us.  

The village cats were also enjoying the sunshine, they seemed to be everywhere. 

 

Exiting the village and climbing up a rough road behind we decided it was too hot for more climbing and it would be as bad coming back so it was back down to the car and into Lefkogia. The taverna was very busy today most of the patrons being foreigners. 

After lunch we went on the beach in Plakias as a suitable breeze had developed to enable Keith to do a spot of kite flying.  Meanwhile the rest of us played boules, Ian getting bloody knees as he fell onto the gritty sand whilst laughing at me.  Yiannis and Athanasia passed by slowly in their car tooting the horn and waving frantically to us.  They had been on the beach swimming about 300 metres from us and had tried to attract our attention but failed to do so.

There was no school today for Lambros as the teachers were on strike and so we had promised to play jian qiu, a Chinese game that is played with a large weighted shuttlecock and passed between players generally standing in a circle using only the foot, and boules when we got back. So we spent a couple of hours more getting plenty of exercise before the sun set.

We decided to eat at 'Panorama' in Mirthios tonight but when we arrived found the place was closed.  So much for them saying they would stay open until the end of December.  Thakfully 'Kastro' was open and so once again had an enjoyable meal returning home well and truly rakied! 

St Antonio Ravine

TUESDAY 4th November

No rush to get up but shopping did need to be done before we could go anywhere - especially a beer change for the men.  Julia and I went along with them visiting the bakery at the far end of the village. This was the first time I have been to the shop and the smell of fresh baking was just wonderful. Inside the selection of delicacies  had us both drooling, but we were strong and bought only the bread and some rolls which looked very large.

The sun was hot, but a fairly strong northerly breeze was blowing, so we decided to go and see the progress of the new road to St. Antonio Ravine.  Ian drove us there giving Keith chance to admire the scenery and do a bit of videoing.  Arriving at the entrance down to the Ravine the road was still under construction. However we were able to make our way along the very dusty track avoiding the heavy machinery and when we were unsure of the track an old man riding his donkey was able to direct us, delighted we were English. The large iron gate by the taverna has been removed so driving straight in we were able to park where we liked. Ian chose to stop under a shady tree.

It was now lunchtime so  we made our way along the path admiring the autumn colours of the trees before climbing up the rough steps to a now leaning gazebo.  It's a long time

 since we have been up here. The food and  drink unpacked we sat back and ate our tuna and tomato roll, which was very light and tasted so good we wished we had another, whilst watching a flock of birds emerge from out of tiny cracks in the cliff face. Keith, not being an expert, says they are 'Cretan blackbirds' but I think they are ravens! We were still sitting in the shade when the  birds returned to their roost. We could also hear the sound of animal bells but it was quite a time before we saw them - actually on our way out of the Ravine.  3 sheep with splendid horns.

Our snack over we made our way down following the path deeper into the Ravine to be joined by an

other couple.  They were walking faster than us so we let them by, the lady infor

ming us "we have the better shoes!"  We were in sandals, they were in trainers and much younger than us. Stopping to look at the plantlife we only saw one flowering cyclamen but found masses of what  I refer to as 'the cobra snake plant'. 

We had told Maria we would be home around 5pm as it is Lambros' 11th birthday and she would like us to join in the cake cutting and sampling ceremony.  We found we still had time to take a look at the dam that his been under construction for several years.  What a dramatic change since last year.  A new road has been constructed around 'Amari Reservoir' and as we looked

across to the road we used to travel along we saw the site of the taverna and nearby houses now completely flattened.  The only building that remains standing is the small church and with the amount of water already collected it will not be long before it is submerged.  We  arrived at the highest point which is now a tarmac road across the dam where an area has been marked out for coaches and bicycles and across the road another section for cars.  Seating has been set by the barriers and so this will now become a tourist attraction.  I guess we shall be seeing tavernas, boat hire and picnic sites before long.

We returned home via the northern villages of Mirthios and Selli where 3 young goats on the bare hillside began to slide as we reached them and for a minute thought the first one was going to end up under the wheels of our car.  Yesterday an eagle flew down in front of us to grab something in the undergrowth before soaring straight up in front of us again.  

We ate at home tonight when Julia and I prepared stuffed long pale green peppers with feta cheese, onion and tomato and then prepared slices of aubergine with chopped tomato and more feta cheese.  It was very nice but Keith announced that doesn't want to become a vegetarian! 

Going north

Monday 3rd November

Keith's birthday so we would go somewhere new.  We made several stops, the first being in the lovely village of Roustika.  Parking the car in the square we walked under an ancient arch to explore the many lanes of this village which also has several Churches and a Monastery.  We followed the sign to 'Roustika Manor' a museum of local traditional dress but found it was now closed for the season.  Across the road was the cemetery and in the adjoining field I was able to help myself to a pomegranate.  The others thought I had taken it from the churchyard - as if I would as it would offend the local people.  

Lake Kournas, the only lake on the island was our next stop and an ideal place to have our picnic. The tavernas were still open and we didn't want to offend the owners by parking close to them and then eat our own food, so we ended up at the far end of the lake overlooking a large flock of coots who were not the least interested in the bits of bread we were throwing to them.Whilst the men drank their beer Julia and I settled for the local wine to wash down the piquant sardines.  We moved the car nearer to the exit road and took a stroll along the shore being greeted by very noisy geese and ducks who thought they were going to be fed.  Although the place was preparing for autumn, i.e. cutting back the mulberry trees, washing down the small pedal boats, there were still tourists willing to pay 7 euros an hour to hire one of the boats.  A family camping by the water's edge were also enjoying a swim while their puppy watched from the shade of an upturned boat.

Our last stop in the late afternoon was Georiopolis (not the correct spelling but I can't be bothered to get the Guide Book out of the car).  A small resort on the North coast in Souda Bay. I thought a visit to the small church at the end of a rocky jetty out to sea would be nice.  I hadn't realised how rocky the walk way would be but the water was fairly shallow should one of us fall in! 

We also found that close by was the area where the fishing boats tied up so before returning to the car went to take a look.  We were lucky to see 3 pelicans swimming around a fishing boat where the man was deep in concentration baiting the hooks with very small sardines.

We had a celebratory meal at 'Kastro'.  Athanasia made some small pies decorating them with small candles spelling out 'Happy Birthday'.  As the hot wax melted quickly he got a very  fast rendition of Happy Birthday before blowing them out in one go. 

Exploring with friends

Sunday 2nd November

We have been having trouble with the brake and abs warning lights on the dashboard so Keith returned the car to the hire firm returning with the same model, in fact the one we hired last year. We remembered the mark when we got too close to a wire fence! 

 

Nothing too energetic in the lovely weather so a walk around the olive groves in Lefkogia seemed a good idea. We stopped to look at the ugly turkey displaying his feathers to an even uglier looking one, checked out the blackberries but decided with the lack of rain they were too small to pick, watched a very large green caterpillar move across the very pebbly track, disturbed several birds of prey before arriving at the site of the newly constructed villas. 

Many of them, especially the large detached ones, are occupied but Julia and I found one that we could take a look at through the patio door.  Very small inside but with a large garden and swimming pool.  The price has disappeared on  the advertising board but the price now includes electric floor heating, satelitte TV, solar heating,  and white goods.  Not sure I would want a swimming pool but they look nicer than the boxes being built in Plakias.

We stopped for lunch in one of the small tavernas in the village of Lefkogia before returning to Plakias via the harbour.  We were just in time to see a passenger on one of Tassamanolis' small fishing boats lift a large fish secured on a pole out of the water.  The local people on the small jetty seemed very impressed.

We ate up at 'Kastro' tonight so Keith could watch the last of this season's Grand Prix races.  We all  celebrated when Lewis Hamilton became the youngest and first black man to be a World Champion.

Collecting our friends from Iraklion Airport

Saturday 1st November 2008

This evening Keith's friend from his early school days will be arriving with his wife.  Ian and Julia joined us last year for their first visit to Crete and enjoyed it so much asked if they may join us again.  Their flight from Stanstead to Heraklion, via Athens, arrives around 6.50pm and so we have all day before we collect them from the airport. It was another lovely day and so we decided around noon to leave going the 'long way round' a journey we thought would take 4 hours.  

Leaving Plakias our route took us through the local mountain villages of Frati, Mixarouma, south to Ag. Galini, across the 'plastic valley' (a large plain full of greenhouses, which were once constructed of wood and plastic sheeting that after a period began to tear away from the structures and blow all over the land, becoming such an eyesore)on  to Mires.  Mires is the largest town in this area with a long line  of commercial shops, cafes and tavernas on each side of the road with houses constructed behind.  Not a very attractive tourist stop.  On to the ancient sites of Gortys, Ag. Triada and Phaestos before heading north.  The map shows this road up to Heraklion as long and winding with many villages for us to explore.  Before going much further we decided it would be a good time for a short picnic break.  We stoppped in an entrance to an olive grove where snails were clinging in groups to all the vegetation.  It wasn't a long stay and we arrived in Heraklion in 2 hours due to the long and winding road now being a fast highway bypassing all the villages!  

We joined the E75 on the north coast travelling towards the airport and continued on this road to see what the coast was like east of the airport.

We found ourselves on the coastal road in the village of Vathianos Kambos and parking the car by a small archeological site, which was closed but the sign made us laugh, went to explore.  Finding our way down to the beach was difficult despite signs outside tavernas pointing 'to the beach'. Eventually we found a way down between the houses but the path was littered with rubbish, overgrown plants and dog dirt!  The beach front 

was not that inviting either.  Small stretches of beach with rocky breakwaters in very shallow water.  The sturdy lamp posts on the 'promenade' could have done with a good coat of paint but at least the globes were still  in one piece. 

Several people were swimming and two young

boys accompanied by their puppy were patiently fishing off one of the breakwaters. We even saw one woman snorkelling dragging a large fishing net with floats alongside.  Late afternoon we stopped for a drink in one of the better looking tavernas where lots of locals were also coming to eat.  We found out that thistaverna is open every day from 1pm.  Although it had been cloudy for most of the day the temperature was 27C.  At 4.45 the sun appeared in time for us to watch it set behind the  mountains. 

We returned to the airport to read our books until Ian and Julia's plane landed.  By 7.15pm we were on our way to Plakias calling at 'Taverna Kastro' for supper.  Then it was on to 'Creta Spirit' where Maria and Theo, who was  wearing shorts so it must have been a hot day, were waiting to greet them.  A nightcap and at 12.30am we all retired, Ian well and truly rakied! 

Settling in

Wednesday 29th October we received an email from the family to say it was snowing in Bridlington.  We also received photos from our friends in Surrey showing the show around 11pm. Here in Plakias it was hotter than yesterday.  In need of gentle exercise we took a stroll along the road to Souda encountering an English couple on their first visit to Crete. We left them to go the   beach whilst we continued our walk up the mountainside following the tracks through the olive groves.                                                                                           

                  

   

 Plakias and surround area  

                           

A pleasant circular walk which takes us past Theo and Maria's olive grove by the stream which today was flowing quite fast.  The olives are beginning to drop and the branches of heavily laden with fruit.  There has been very little rain and the locals are praying it will come soon or at least before they begin harvesting.

In the afternoon we took a stroll along the sea front towards the 'Peligrimnos' Taverna and rooms to see the progress of the new villas being constructed.  Again lots of people were on the beach and swimming.  This morning whilst breakfasting on our balcony we heard voices and saw 3 divers immediately below Theo's property.  We saw 2 more in the shallow water at Souda and another 2 in the water here.

We made a last minute decision to go and eat in the 'Panorama' taverna in Mirthios where again most of the tables on the balcony were occupied.  We have been told that the Taverna is going to remain open until the end of December the same as last year which is good news for us.

Thursday 30th October and market day in Rethymno.  Maria asked if she may come with us which was nice and so was the weather 29C.  Maria needed to do various things and we wanted the market and so we arranged to meet at 'Messostrati' raki bar for lunch.  Whoever got there first would telephone the other.  When we met up Maria ordered a plate of aubergines with tomato and feta cheese which smelt and looked delicious when it arrived on the table.  We stook to our usual Cretan omelette.  We were also treated to a plate of 'glace orange' in syrup and expected it to taste very sweet.  On the contrary it was very nice with a tangy marmalade taste.

Whilst we ate our meal we were treated to a musical interlude by a young lyra player and an older lautro player.  I admired the lyra which look quite new.  A small 3  stringed instrument played with a bow in an upright position resting on the knee, rather than like a violin on the shoulder. On leaving we thanked the musicians for entertaining us.    The first time we haven't taken our cameras with us.

There is a lot of landscaping taking place around the Old Town and the promenade and our usual exit from the car park on the harbour top was undergoing a makeover.  We managed to drive by the workmen and leave the city by our familiar route.   

5pm Lambros and I went fishing from the small beach below 'Creta Spirit' where I discovered my casting technique needs a lot of work!  A shoal of small fish leapt out of the water close by and we couldn't even catch one of those!

Friday 31st October and it has to be hot as Maria is wearing a Tshirt and it is only 9.30am. The brake and ABS lights keep coming on and so Keith took our Yaris back to see Kostas, returning with another Yaris for the day as Marcos, their mechanic was in Rethymno.  

This morning Keith would help me fish and as we left I told Maria we were going hunting for sharks as there seemed to be no whales about!  We caught nothing.  Returning in the evening with Lambros we were just about to leave when I caught an angel fish - small but at least we caught something.

Back home Keith was enjoying nibbles and raki with Theo and it was decided we would all go up to'Kastro' tonight.  We went in our own cars as Theo said they would be returning home immediately after eating.  It was almost midnight before we got them to move and that was because Lambros was falling asleep.

  

3 months in Crete

Monday 27th October 2008 at 5pm we left Bridlington for Manchester airport for an Olympic Airways flight to Crete. Normally we travel with XL Airways but the company had ceased trading early September.  We had been one of the lucky ones as the Company had contacted us whilst we were in China offering us an alternative date, or refund, as our October 28th flight had been cancelled.  We took the refund and chose to book return flights with Olympic via Athens. The only draw back was it was a 10.15pm departure arriving in Athens around 4am the next day. 

Our journey to the airport took nearly 3 hours due to heavy traffic, being that time of day when everyone was leaving work. From York onwards the traffic was nose to tail.  I was amazed to see a woman driver in the adjoining lane texting on her mobile in the moving traffic! Terminal 1 at 

Manchester Airport was undergoing a makeover and we had to find our way to the appropriate check in desk located on a lower level.  There were 2 lifts available, but only 1 working, however we did not have long to wait to check in.  The layout was diabolical as to reach the departure gates everyone had to walk through the duty free shop.  At this time of night, with only 2 Monarch planes leaving after us, it wasn't so bad.  But what would it be like during the day with pushchairs, wheelchairs and excited children! There was very little place to sit apart from in the bar areas where most of the tables were littered with glasses and beakers, some half empty.  At 9.30pm the bar closed only to re-open 10 minutes later and still the tables had not been cleared. We had to wait to find out which gate we were departing from as no verbal warning is given, and when the number finally appeared on the monitor we headed down to the end of a long corridor. Again the layout meant that passengers leaving their plane to enter the terminal had to walk round a narrow corridor passing several gates, but having to stop at ours to let the passengers for the Athens flight board, before they could continue their way to baggage reclaim.  

We had been allocated seats 5B and C and found a young man sitting in the aisle seat which he thought was his. We soon had him and his large carrier bag moved to the window seat.  With clear skies I wished we had kept quiet about the seating so I could look out of the window.  Still I had a good thriller to read.  Keith watched a bit of TV and listened to the radio whilst the young man was listening to drum music on his ipod.  Keith could hear it through his headphones and he was sitting in the aisle seat!  With a tail wind we actually arrived in Athens at 3.30am where we had to wait for our onward flight to Chania.  

Although we were in transit we had problems trying to reach Gate B21 as the signed route no longer existed.  We discovered we had to go out and come back in again, once more going through passport and security.  Our 5.50am flight only had 22 passengers but I'm not surprised at that time of the morning.  It was such a quick flight of 35 minutes we hardly had time to drink our coffee and eat our chocolate croissant!  It would have been nice if the two items had been delivered at the same time as I had almost finished my coffee before the steward came along with the individually wrapped croissant.

Tony, our German driver from Auto Preveli was waiting for us and we apologised for dragging him out so early.  As we drove down the winding road from the airport to Souda Bay a large bright red sun appeared out of the sea with a Crete shaped cloud passing across it casting a long red glow in the surface of the bay. Pity the camera was in the car boot.  At 'Creta Spirit' a sleepy Maria greeted us with the key and said she would see us for coffee when she had woken up.

28th October is a National Holiday and a parade was to take place in the village, and what a beautiful day for it.  Maria and Lambros left to attend a service at the large village Church along with many other parents and schoolchildren.

Theo would come with us later and we would meet Maria outside the Livicon Hotel.  Lambros had been chosen to carry the National Flag for the school and we almost missed seeing him as he followed the young boys and  girls in National Dress.  With no wind the flag was hanging limp in front of him.  All the schools in the area were represented by marching groups of children the younger ones leading with the senior at the rear. The last group was 4 drummers accompanied by Lambros' Headmaster. The parade finished at the bridge where everyone mingled before departing for home or the tavernas.  We met an old friend, Irene, with her young daughter, on the left of the photo, and I asked if I may take a photo of her and her friend. I was also fortunate to take a photo of a boy and girl in traditional dress. 

We went for a drink with Theo and Maria whilst Lambros went off to have lunch with some of his friends and then we came home for a siesta.  

A lovely start to our holiday.