Nisi

WEDNESDAY 17^th DECEMBER

It was back to shorts yesterday – a really hot day ideal for doing nothing except sit on our balcony and drink ice cold retsina with our smoked tuna salad at lunch time.  We ate out in Plakias in the evening where the temperature was still 19C at 9pm so I really had a very lazy day! 

However the weather forecast for today was right again – cloudy but warm.  It seemed an ideal day for going to Nisi a village in the mountains beyond Kali Sekia, a sign we have seen many times and said "we will go there" and until today we never have.  The dark cloud was hanging low over the mountains behind Plakias but as we have often found once we have gone through the gorge the weather has more often than not been brighter. 

Around 11am we took the back road up to Sellia and reaching the village square turned right following the road that gave us good views of Plakias and its large bay  until we reached the junction leading to Mirthios on our right, or straight on to Rethymno. Going straight on this route took us through the small gorge of Kostifou where a small badger was lying dead at the roadside, the first we have seen here this year.  It was 21C when we left ‘Creta Spirit’ and now the temperature was dropping fast, as low as 15C.  Through Kalia Sekia and on to the village of Moundros, where we would leave the car, and where the temperature was now 18C. Getting out of the car we set all the village dogs barking and the sheep baaing.  What a noise! The sign to Nisi pointed down a steep track and so today’s adventure began. 

We dropped down about 100 metres into the valley bottom so by the time we reached this point our knees were beginning to hurt.  Still the lovely scenery took our minds off our aches and pains.  The valley was littered with small fields of olive trees and white stones, big ones - especially one that had fallen from somewhere and now formed a small cave. The river that runs through the valley was dry and whilst Keith went over the concrete bridge I chose the dry ford.  

There was daisies, dandelions and oxalis everywhere and in one field I was delighted to find 5 large  white zante lilies flowering. We also saw foxtail lily bulbs everywhere and sprouting dark green leaves. This is really going to be a floral paradise in the coming months. We saw a couple of small fields of tomatoes the foliage now dead but still many red and green tomatoes clinging to the vines.  

We were startled by 3 pigs in the hillside above us and as I wanted a better photo climbed the narrow pathway leading to a makeshift gate. I had to be careful where I put my feet as the farmer had been feeding these pigs rotten tomatoes.  The immediate area behind the fence and wooden pallet gate where the pigs had been treading was a mess of remnants of eaten tomatoes and mud.  I had asked Keith if he thought all these tomatoes would affect the taste of the pork.  Hadn’t I wondered where the tomato sausages came from?! 

After an hour and climbing back up about 100 metres we came across several derelict buildings and the sign of ‘Nisi’.  We hadn’t known what to expect when we set off but weren’t too surprised at what we saw.  As with many of the ancient buildings in Crete it is always the arches and windows that remain in good condition unlike the walls.  

What will make a lovely sight early nextsummer is the wild delphiniums that are beginning to emerge around the ruins. (I shall not have to pester Keith to drive to Anapoli and Aradena Gorge to see the old ruins and wild delphiniums anymore.) 

Behind in the olive grove we found what I believe to be an aloni and sat there to have our sandwich as the sun briefly appeared.  We found some of the trees a little eerie but overall the view was lovely looking across to the village of Kato Pouros. 

In the adjoining field I found a fairly large area with several small round pools set in the rock base - the Martians have been here for sure!  

We did a bit more exploring of the houses before deciding to return to Moundros.

We also called in to have a look at St. George’s Church, the only building to be occupied, the two graves in the churchyard. There was also one that was empty, and in a corner we saw a mound of the white stones with its flat lid slightly askew.  Opening the small church door we were surprised to find the floor covered in olive leaves and wondered how they had got there.  On the lecturn I found a decoration of almost dead red roses and white gypsophillia. Keith didn’t like this place at all and quickly left after securing the church doors with the wire fastening.  Again in the immediate area some of the old olive and carob tree trunks were worn away leaving grotesque designs.

It was just as nice walking back, but this time we didn’t see the pigs and wondered where they had gone as we had heard no vehicle and we did not think they would climb up the steep rocky hillside. We had disturbed many different types of birds and as usual were thrilled to see the large eagles flying overhead. 

I saw a very rough track that appeared to be leading up to the village but the last thing we wanted was to have to get so far and then return back down to the valley so we abandoned the idea of walking up it. By the time we reached the car we really ached but felt much better for the exercise.  

This is going to be another place that we will add to our favourites list.  I can’t wait to return after we have had some serious rain and the river is flowing, but then the track may be too muddy, we shall have to see.  No more sun today.