WEDNESDAY 26th

7am alarm call, having set our watches for 7.30, as we had packed last night ready for cases out at 8am – lobby 8.50am – depart 9am. Breakfast was mayhem with a long queue waiting to enter the dining room. Being with SAGA has its compensations as Mary Jane had an area reserved just for our group so we were able to walk straight in. Returning to our room to collect our hand luggage we were surprised to find our luggage still outside the door so on leaving the room we took it with us.

As soon as our journey began Humberto picked up the microphone and bombarded us with more information about the Cuban way of life and that we should ‘expect the unexpected’ a catch phrase that became frequently used by everyone.

Today’s first stop was to be Las Terrazas on our way to Vinales Valley and at the security gate to this large Nature Reserve a park guide joined us and spoke about Las Terrazas and asked what would we find in towns. Before anyone could answer I replied “Bars” which brought the house down. The answer he was looking for was children. “Jesus – give me a break!” I don’t think anyone thought of that answer.

It was time for our first cocktail of the day. We sipped our rum and coke laced with orange juice (or was coke and orange juice laced with rum) whilst overlooking a small lake and where our guide gave us more information about the small part of this vast reserve that we would be visiting. As Keith leaned over the wall to take a picture of wildfowl on the lake he began to have a nose bleed. Thankfully I had some tissues with me and he had some loo paper.

Before reboarding our coach we took a short walk around the immediate area spotting several birds including Cuba’s National bird ‘the trojan’ a parrot type bird but without the squawk! Humming birds, mocking birds, vultures and others kept us there longer than our guide had anticipated and we had to travel further into the infrastructure to a farm where we would have lunch in the farmer’s restaurant. We walked up steps in an area where coffee beans were laid out to dry and at the very top under a shelter was a giant millstone where the outer case of the coffee bean was removed. Another method was to use a giant pestle and mortar and with a swinging rhythm of the hips, which the Cubans are famous for, whilst pounding the wooden pestle the coffee skins could also be removed. Currently the coffee bushes were in full flower with sprays of white flowers cascading down the stems. It was also in this area that ruins of the rooms used by the slaves were seen whilst taking in the panoramic view before us. Our guide had been very good at identifying the sounds of the birds for us and at this moment asked if we could hear a sound. “Yes” “That’s a motor car” “What model” twitcher John asked. Ooh another Jesus! I began to smirk at which point Mary Jane asked quietly what I was smiling at. The two Jesus! “Do you think we’ll get another?” Looking at my watch I replied “bound to – it’s still early!”

Another way of creating employment in the rural areas is to have lunch in a local family’s home. This one was in a lovely setting overlooking the vegetation of ginger plants, orange trees and other plantation local to the area whilst having chickens and their chicks running around under our feet, plus a few peacocks and a wonderful cockerel. (Cockerel’s feathers were originally used to stir drinks and then someone had the bright idea of mixing the colours of the liquids to represent the colour in the feathers and that’s how the word ‘Cocktail’ was derived. My book on ‘Cuban Cocktails’ purchased from the second hand bookstall in Havana is proving a mind of useful information at every watering hole.) We had a delicious lunch beginning with hard flat bread tasting like bread sticks, a plate of oranges peeled like an apple and cut in half neatly piled on a large plate whilst orders were taken for drinks – beer just for a change! Next came plates of chicken, thick slices of pork accompanied by a cabbage salad, homemade yam potato crisps and black bean rice. Dessert was a large scoop of ice-cream drizzled with an orange sauce or perhaps papaya. (Papaya in Cuba means ‘womens bits’ so the Cubans refer to the fruit as ‘Fruita Bomba’) As usual we had music whilst we ate and as usual one of the group came round to try and sell their CD at 10 CUCs a time. Most of the time the music was fine but other times we either couldn’t hear it or it was diabolical but still they expected a tip! When we had finished eating we returned to our coach to drive to the village to have our coffee in ‘Maria’s Bar’ where according to Mary Jane this was the best coffee in Cuba. More hilarity on the bus when I thought I was the only one having a ‘Maria Special’ but 14 other hands went up when Mary Jane took the orders so our coffee would be almost ready by the time we were seated. The fact ‘Maria’s coffee’ was laced with a coffee liqueur could have something to do with it being the best. At this point the heavens opened and those sitting close to the balcony railings had to move further inside. Keith and I had sat at the bar which caused one or two comments at the time. By the time we had finished our coffee the rain had stopped and we went down a level to visit the Nicky Nacky Noo shop and the toilets and not necessarily in that order. I love the little black Cuban dolls in their bright coloured clothes, just like the real thing, but feel it inappropriate to take them home for our great granddaughters.

It was time to leave the terraces of colourful trees and flowers and local people on horseback to continue our journey to Vinales. Before dropping our guide at a nearby petrol station we got another 3 Jesus’ out of him with Mary Jane and I doing the appropriate hand count at each Jesus. No-one else on the coach knew what was going on until we had reached our next hotel.

We still had a great distance to travel but with a Pina Colada stop in the countryside where one added one’s own amount of rum it was rather lovely. Behind the Pina Colada bar was a small pond with a tobacco field beyond and a large shed where the tobacco leaves would be hung to dry after collection. Walking around the edge of the pond I unexpectedly came across a sleeping pig almost covered in mud. Actually I thought it was dead, but it suddenly moved its bottom.

For the last part of our journey Mary Jane told us not to expect too much at the hotel ‘Los Jazmines’ where we would be staying for the next 3 nights. We may or may not have hot water, we may or may not have electricity, we may or we may not have plugs in our sinks and if we have will we inform her so she can have one, and doors may or may not be hanging off the cupboards. The food is not that brilliant but there is a small shop where we can buy packets of biscuits and small cakes. Finally the staff are very miserable. So once again she and Humberto asked us to be horizontal as quote “we were in Cuba so expect the unexpected”. The good news was there was a pool. “But would there be any water in it?” I asked.

Alighting from the coach we entered a small reception area, leading to a large bar and seating area and then out onto the terrace with an empty pool where a couple of men were doing renovations ready for the forthcoming season. It was a bit of a relief really as Mary Jane had informed us that the last time she went swimming she had to share it with a frog. So we don’t have to worry about the frog then.

With a welcome drink in our hands we saw on our left a row of bungalows - but we weren’t staying in them. To our right along a path was a block of rooms – we were staying in them.

What makes this hotel so special is the view over the valley that everyone has from their room whatever level they are on, assuming one can open the louvre doors leading onto the balcony and one has a chair to sit on should one wish to linger. Down below was a patchwork quilt of bright red soil, green tobacco fields and brightly painted houses and in the distance a ridge of mountains with small ‘hills’ of limestone known locally as ‘mogotes’ Another wonderful feature of the place was the amount of turkey vultures that flew past at eye level.

Keys handed out we were on the second floor, the first room over the bridge to our left so no stairs to climb. Sitting on a bench by the bridge was a group of women, namely our chambermaids so we said “hello” as we passed them. The room was very basic but clean and the chambermaid had left a message on the desk which took some deciphering but she was wishing us a pleasant stay and to leave any laundry on the bed. On my bedside cabinet was a note from the Doctor giving information on how to contact him. There you go it can’t all be bad if he has to advertise for business!

6.30pm cocktails and Keith’s first mojito but we hadn’t finished our drinks before it was time to head up the stairs to the buffet restaurant, our cocktail not really going with the meal which was actually quite nice. The chef beamed at us when we went to thank him. We had a man and young woman sing and play for us while we ate and it seemed it was only our group that acknowledged them. Before we had chance to move a sample the best mojito in Vinales in the bar next to the restaurant the guitarist was round with his glass for tip. What no CD?!

The old man, behind a wonderful old fashioned bar, produced the best mojitos to date and the prices much cheaper than the ‘Occidental’. It had been a long day and we were in our room by 9pm and now had chance to take a closer look at the decor. The bedside lamp does have a switch half way down the wire so I don’t have to pull the plug out to turn it off. However Keith does as his switch has been removed and the wires have been taped together. The interior is painted pink the same as the exterior of the whole buildings so one assumes they got a good deal on the paint. The wind is howling as a cold front is passing through the area and yet we can hear the cicades chirping away. The only programme we can get on the TV is CNN and currently showing Piers Morgan so that can be turned off.

Good news is we have a lie in as tomorrow’s adventure doesn’t start until 10am.